Leave no bolt behind - Transmission Case
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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Leave no bolt behind - Transmission Case in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; So... Today was a fun filled day of Caddy work. I had to put in some fog light rivets, change ...
  1. #1
    GeorgeJung is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Leave no bolt behind - Transmission Case

    So... Today was a fun filled day of Caddy work. I had to put in some fog light rivets, change some tail lights and change the tranny fluid.

    On the trunk, not the tail-light on the cornor, the outer most light does not work. The dealer told me this is a peanut light (194), but when I pulled one out it wasn't a peanut. Did I pull the wrong one or was the dealer wrong? I'm going to go back in tomorrow but its raining now so i figured id ask on here.



    Onto the tranny, I looked in the fsm and followed the pattern it said to do when tightening the bolts on the transmission case. However, as I tightened bolt #2 waiting to hear my torque wrench click the bolt head snapped off. I tightened the rest using a screwdriver like rachet. Two questions really, can I get the bolt out by welding what is still sticking to a nut and using the nut as a new bolt head? or is there a better way to get it out?

    And as long as the other bolts are tightened is it bad to run it like this for 2 weeks until I get can more bolts? It doesn't seem to be leaking at all, plus I accidently overfilled it, you can see fluid when you take out the dipstick. I would assume the worst would be a small leak on that corner... I will be doing a 12 hr trip coming up next wednesday which is why I did this now.

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  3. #2
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Leave no bolt behind - Transmission Case

    I'd use an "easy out" bolt extractor to remove it.

  4. #3
    dkozloski's Avatar
    dkozloski is online now Cadillac Owners 10000+ Posts
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    Re: Leave no bolt behind - Transmission Case

    The way you described of welding a nut to the stub to get the bolt out is the absolute best way to extract any broken bolt. Use a TIG welder but before you do that try working the bolt out with a small, sharp, center punch. Using a very small hammer, tap the punch at an angle against the bolt in the direction that would unscrew it. If the head was pulled off the bolt, the remains will be loose in the hole and should spin it right out. You might also try grinding a slot with a Dremel tool and unscrewing the bolt with a screwdriver.
    Don't mess with Binky Bear!


  5. #4
    GeorgeJung is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Day 2 - Water Pump

    So today I tackled the water pump / thermosat. It took me quite a while given that it was my first time working on an engine.

    The transmission issue from yesterday, 1 broken bolt, seems to be sweating a bit from that corner but nothing major, I'm thinking it will be good for the 12 hr roadtrip, any objections?

    Onto the water pump. Everything went back together fine, but the check engine light was on. Pulled the code and it turned out i forgot to plug back in the air sensor harness. I did notice a slight clicking / knocking at idle, which very well couldve been there before. I did some searching and from reading rangers posts I think that its the water pump tensioner bearings, especially since i was applying lot of awkward pressure on it to remove the belt, when i installed the belt i figured it out and pressure was applied properly.

    The sound is very infrequent, maybe once every 30 seconds or so. Does this sound like it could be the culprit? If so, is it something that can wait until after my roadtrip or should it be done before?

    Thanks for all your help guys, after this weekend I can't help but feeling like im driving a new car, aside from a worn front motor mount which is being replaced as soon as i get back from my roadtrip due to the waiting list at the mechanic.

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