BTW, my girlfriend bought a Land Cruiser Special edition brand new in 1997. Cost 50k, and that was absolutely outrageous back in 97. Had all the service done at Toyota and was going to keep it forever since the LCs are supposed to go 300k or more. Never towed or even went off road in it. It developed a piston knock at 130k (among other problems), and she had to get rid of it for $4k at 146k when the knock became more like a bang. Granted 146k miles is not too bad, but I'm certainly not impressed.
Bad news Guy's
Very Bad News.
The LS1 (11mm X 2.0MM) type Head bolt won't stay in a block made of JUNK!
I see nothing good coming from this discovery. I can honestly say I don't see this being a one time case.
I have a 2004 Seville with about 80k on it that came in last week for a seat heater Element and something else.
It came back this week with the Seat Heater Module out and a Coolant Leak.
I found a Blister in the Side-Wall of the Surge Tank.
Think about how F'ing hot that coolant had to be that contacted the side-wall of the tank to cause a blister!!!!!
I used our "Block Tester" on it and the fluid turned from Blue to Yellow in just a few pumps. :nono:
I pulled the engine and the Head Gaskets looked OK. Nothing showing a MAJOR Gasket Failure. I saw some bunching of the head gasket and some signs of uneven crimping force/torque.
1 head bolt was just slightly little loose. It was a little rusty, but the hole was Dry. I mean Bone Dry. The Rust was not from COOLANT in my opinion. Maybe a wet bolt when installed.
I inspected the Block and ALL 20 bolt holes were JUNK. WTF:nono:
The threads were pitted and broken in all 20 holes :nono:
My Northstar savior is crumbling before my eyes.
I drilled out the hole that had the slightly loose bolt first and found a good sized void.
The zone rep came out and looked at it. He said lets try a TimeSert. Ok I will play along. I tapped the hole and the void doubled in size. :nono:
Now I had drilled out 2 other hole before the Zone Rep Came out and they both had small holes/voids in the casting. WTF THEY can't figure out how to pour a block you have been doing it since the 60's
I am overly irritated by this.
This is NOT the bad hole. The treads are junk in this one.
Hey the screen is broke on my camera so it is difficult to take pictures, but I will take some more of the nightmare
AJ, have any experience with sure grip studs, could this be a better repair than thread inserts ?
After reading every page of this thread, I discovered a couple back there is a head stud kit. Seems to be the only way to go.
With 13.1 compression, added HP from the cams im not risking these timesert deals slipping out again.
A noob with new questions...I'm about to buy (and tow home) a 2000 sts with 110K miles and with a blown head gasket. I won't get a chance to do anything to it until next weekend. Perhaps you guys can sum this up for me.
If I take out the head bolts and see material on the bottom of them, I need to drill and tap the holes no matter what, correct? If there isn't any material, I can assume if I just use stock bolts it'll eventually break down again? But if I use one of the two insert kits, odds are greatly increased that it'll never break down again. Also there's a vendor who sells studs. Also ARP sells studs even cheaper, I can't determine if they sell them for a 2K?
A good plan of action would be to buy gaskets and ARP studs (if they make them) or just plain head bolts if they don't to hopefully have them here by next weekend. Next weekend, remove the bolts and if there's material on them buy an insert kit and redrill/retap. But if no material just move forward. Sound good?
AJ, I have a proposition for you. I am local to MKE, and was wondering for trade with your expertise and time, I would get the stud kit and you can have first hand experience. If not, I would understand.
I do have a 2 post lift, engine stand....etc in my shop and tools, maybe not all the tools to a certified mechanic, but enough to get it done.
I have your cell number, will call you this week.