The engine turned over but nothing else. No pop! No sputter!
A hundred bucks later the Seville is in the garage again!
The only thing I’ve checked so far is fuel pressure, and its right where it’s suppose to be.
I'm sorry, I was talking about the 90. I just have a bunch of Modules for 83 models in my spare parts box.
I called NAPA and they quoted about $35.00. For kicks I had them look up the module for an 83 and its a match with the 90, number for number.
So you wouldn't recommend using dielectric grease for seating the module?
“The Guy” at Auto Zone Does. Lol
I ran out to Radio Shack and picked up a tube of that stuff you recommended, not cheap, grabbed a random module out of my stash, cleaned it up a bit, put it all back together and…VROOM.
IT DID IT AGAIN!!!
Damit! Ignition Module Failure!! I got about 50 miles out of it before it died. This time I managed to get it off the street, parking lot mechanic time.
I wonder…Napa claims the HT4100 and the 4.5 Liter use the same ignition module….could it be that the 1989 4.5 Liter is their cross reference.
The 1989 4.5 Liter is a TB setup where as my 1990 4.5 Liter is a MP setup.
Could there be a difference between the “89/90” modlules?
As far as I know, all the 7pin modules are the same. I checked via rockauto.com and the MPFI and TBI's use the same module. You did clean both surfaces where the heat compound applies, right? Maybe the one you put in was just close to the end of it's life. Btw, you will get the same no spark symptom if the pickup coil inside the distributor fails. You can check it with a DVM - you want 500 - 1500 ohms.
Not all modules are created equal. When I replaced my cam sensor I decided to go ahead and replace the module with a new autozone piece while I was in there. It lasted less than 1 year. The GM modules have the logo molded into them but all the others are blank. I now have a BWD in there from Advance installed with the Arctic Silver 5 and so far so good...
Yea, I cleaned both surfaces where the heat compound applies, and I used Arctic Silver but, I think your right about it being close to the end of it's life. It was a used GM of 83 vintage. At least that’s what I pulled it out of.
On the other hand, I jump started my son's friends rig the night before it died. Perhaps that had somthing to do with it?
I stuck in another used GM unit from my stash and again, VROOOM! Cool! On the road again.
I noticed that amongst the half a dozen GM modules I have, the numbers printed on them differ. Are these numbers significant?
Jump starting wouldnt hurt it.... but I suppose hooking the cables up backwards could possibly cause a problem but probably a long shot even then.
I dont have proof, but I really dont think the numbers matter as long as it's a 7-pin. They all perform the same functions. Lots of aftermarket manufacturers make their own to put on the market which probably explains the differing numbers. I think the biggest difference among them is the quality of the components inside.
I'm just waiting for someone to jump in here and blame the unorthodox use of cpu heatsink compound over the supplied grease....
According to the guy at Radio Shack, I’m not the first grease monkey to come in and buy the Arctic for this very application. “Had used it himself”, he said.
We’ll see how many miles I can get out of it.