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HT4100 4.1, 4.5, 4.9 Discussion, Engine Swap Process in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; There is one under each throttle body bore. Those tubes allow the EGR system to function. They should be cleaned ...
  1. #16
    drewsdeville is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    There is one under each throttle body bore. Those tubes allow the EGR system to function. They should be cleaned out - you can do so with anything that fits in there whether it be a screwdriver, piece of coat hanger, etc. If you are really concerned about getting it all out, remove the EGR valve and clean the passages from both sides with an air compressor and some carb cleaner. That is really not necessary, however.

  2. #17
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Cool, i'll work on that today along with pulling the Valve Cover that is cracked. I'll keep posting pics if you guys dont mind.

  3. #18
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    I rotated the crankshaft just to get the feel of how the engine is rotating and Im curious...

    When you do this, should your crank rotate totally smooth & easy when making one full rotation? I'd say 3/4 of the way its fairly smooth but it gets to a point where it requires more pressure to rotate with the wrench. Once you get past that point its fairly smooth again 3/4 of the way.

    My question: Is this normal? There is no oil in the engine so I'm guessing that adds to it. The only other reason I feel this might be normal is due to the way the pistons are moving. If a piston is traveling down and gets to the furthest point there should be additional friction when changing direction or does this sound totally wrong?

    Thanks,
    Chris

  4. #19
    the recluse is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Yes, it's normal. It's the compression stroke...and it's not because the piston's reaching the bottom, it's because it's reaching the top...with the valves closed.

  5. #20
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Awesome thanks man!

    Ok after day 3, I threw some updated pictures of my progress. http://s1094.photobucket.com/albums/i444/cristofo/

    I removed the Valve Covers and the heads look great! No sludge, no visible issues so I'm happy.

    I cleaned the water outlet that bolts to the back of the water pump. It took alot of elbow grease to get it completely clean and free of the old gasket. I'm taking every precaution to make sure my cooling system is leak free.

    I also cleaned inside the upper intake with carb cleaner and a rag, used compressed canned air to clear out the metal egr tubes. I noticed that the metal center egr tube in the port hole with the deeper inlet was loose. I could turn it in place but i could not pull it out and I didnt try very hard because I didnt think it was a good idea.

    I also bought Champion Platinum Plugs today but I'm still not sure if I want to use them. I have great success with NGK plugs but Ive only had them in 2 Acuras so far. Im searching the forum for plug recommendations but there is almost too much info. I may take these back to either get AC Delco Platinum or NGK Platinum G series. Maybe some people have done or heard of this. Does anyone here adjust the install on their plugs so that the open end of the tip is facing directly towards where the injector is located?


    Almost there...

  6. #21
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    I would put Delco Platinum's in it, I run them in both my Northstar and 4.9 with good results.

    As far as running with the plug facing a certain way, well, in this engine it's almost negligible. The combustion chambers are wedge shaped and therefore start flame propagation towards the back of the head anyway. It's an engineering trick to reduce detonation, as these motors have no knock sensors. There are a few times this technique is useful, such as in bathtub designed chambers. Here starting flame propagation towards the valve (up) will help flame spread a little more evenly. I your case, I wouldn't worry too much about it...

    The injectors are not located in the cylinder chamber, they are where the intake drops to the intake valve. Otherwise you run the risk of exploding the injector, which, I would imagine, would not be a very pretty sight.

  7. #22
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Makes sense and I'm gonna exchange these champions for delcos. Thanks!

  8. #23
    drewsdeville is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Quote Originally Posted by the recluse View Post
    The injectors are not located in the cylinder chamber, they are where the intake drops to the intake valve.
    A direct injection 4.X would be pretty sweet!

  9. #24
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Today, I went out to buy parts and exchange my plugs. I ended up getting the AC Delco R44TLS6 for 2.29/ea...They aren't the platinum AC Delcos but I'm pretty sure this part number shipped with the engine.

    Does anyone know if the Fel-Pro Water Pump and Water Outlet gaskets are ok to use? I saw somewhere on the forum that a cork W/P gasket was the only thing that didnt leak for one users application.

  10. #25
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Quote Originally Posted by Cristofo View Post
    Today, I went out to buy parts and exchange my plugs. I ended up getting the AC Delco R44TLS6 for 2.29/ea...They aren't the platinum AC Delcos but I'm pretty sure this part number shipped with the engine.

    Does anyone know if the Fel-Pro Water Pump and Water Outlet gaskets are ok to use? I saw somewhere on the forum that a cork W/P gasket was the only thing that didnt leak for one users application.
    Be sure not to let the hood fall on you while you try to change the plugs. Seems like common sense, but a guy who nearly drops a car on himself probably needs reminded of things like that. Remembering to breathe?

    I'd recommend you have the water pump gaskets done professionally. It's a simple job, but I wouldn't want you getting confused and putting the gasket on the wrong way.

  11. #26
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost C View Post
    Be sure not to let the hood fall on you while you try to change the plugs. Seems like common sense, but a guy who nearly drops a car on himself probably needs reminded of things like that. Remembering to breathe?

    I'd recommend you have the water pump gaskets done professionally. It's a simple job, but I wouldn't want you getting confused and putting the gasket on the wrong way.
    Wow? Ok now you're just showing how immature you are, but don't worry nothing you say will cause me the slightest discomfort. And do better research if you're going to try to come at me, because you obviously cant read. I honestly feel bad for you and anyone that has to "deal" with you in person I bet you're full of fun...Internet tough guys and know-it-alls are a dime a dozen, so let the MEN talk over here. One day when you're older maybe you'll know how to interact with people.

  12. #27
    drewsdeville is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Quote Originally Posted by Cristofo View Post
    Today, I went out to buy parts and exchange my plugs. I ended up getting the AC Delco R44TLS6 for 2.29/ea...They aren't the platinum AC Delcos but I'm pretty sure this part number shipped with the engine.

    Does anyone know if the Fel-Pro Water Pump and Water Outlet gaskets are ok to use? I saw somewhere on the forum that a cork W/P gasket was the only thing that didnt leak for one users application.
    Fel-Pro's work great. As long as the engine is out of the car, it might be a good idea to chase the fine threads in the water inlet as well as the studs on the timing cover with a tap (if you have one available). The bolts that go here seem to cause the most 4.X water pump problems, so they might be worth tending to now while it's easy. Usually, they either are overtorqued and stripped by a naive hand or they corrode, thus failing to hold torque. The 10mm bolts and nuts only get 5 lb-ft, no more.

  13. #28
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Quote Originally Posted by Cristofo View Post
    Wow? Ok now you're just showing how immature you are, but don't worry nothing you say will cause me the slightest discomfort. And do better research if you're going to try to come at me, because you obviously cant read. I honestly feel bad for you and anyone that has to "deal" with you in person I bet you're full of fun...Internet tough guys and know-it-alls are a dime a dozen, so let the MEN talk over here. One day when you're older maybe you'll know how to interact with people.
    Annoying when someone with nothing to say comes in and starts talking in your thread, isn't it?

    Ah well, time to go build a few intakes and work on the prototypes for these swaybar lock collars. I know that's completely irrelevant to the topic at hand, but I figured I'd thump my chest a little while I'm here. You work on your car because you can't afford to pay someone, people pay me to make parts for their cars. See how that works?

    Don't forget to breathe.

  14. #29
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Ok cool, I did read up on the FSM torque ratings being high for the smaller nuts and bolts. I think most of the water pump issues are due to the tight work space when the engine is in the car.

  15. #30
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    Re: Engine Swap Process

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost C View Post
    Annoying when someone with nothing to say comes in and starts talking in your thread, isn't it?

    Ah well, time to go build a few intakes and work on the prototypes for these swaybar lock collars. I know that's completely irrelevant to the topic at hand, but I figured I'd thump my chest a little while I'm here. You work on your car because you can't afford to pay someone, people pay me to make parts for their cars. See how that works?

    Don't forget to breathe.
    I work on my car because I love to do it...You have no idea what you're talking about. I could care less what you do or dont do, youre just bitter because I tried to help you realize something you obviously cant.

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