HT4100 4.1, 4.5, 4.9 Discussion, 1991 DeVille 4.9L water pump in Cadillac Engine Discussion; I hope it wasnt the silver stop-leak. If so, you might be looking at a heater core and/or radiator replacement ...
I hope it wasnt the silver stop-leak. If so, you might be looking at a heater core and/or radiator replacement also. Anything other than the brown 'gold-seal' powder will cause more trouble than it cures.
Automobile(s): 1995 FWB 100,*** miles CURRENT. 1991 Seville 175,000 SOLD
Re: 1991 DeVille 4.9L water pump
Originally Posted by Starydr
the water pump was put on 20K miles ago and the radiator about 150 miles ago but there is anitfreeze on both the ribs between the fittings on the radiator and if your standing by the r. fr. tire its puddling up next to the engine block on what i think is the water pump. I cant see where it's coming from and it wont do it idling in my driveway. I dried everything and went for a 5 mile ride and when I got back, so was the antifreeze in both places.
Open the hood and increase the RPM by lifting throttle lever by hand. That will likely make any slow leaks more visible.
I would flush the heck out of that thing to try to get that stop leak out of there or at least the most that i could. Cause think about it if that will stop a leak what is it doing to the small coolant passages in your engien. I wish people would realize that there is no miracle fix in a bottle if there was all the big manufactures would use it. And also just because a racing team uses it still dose not make it a good product even if they do use it because there engines and transmissions only have to last for X amount of time then they are torn down and rebuilt.
Automobile(s): 1991 Cadillac DeVille, 73 Monte Carlo
Re: 1991 DeVille 4.9L water pump
I think I got it handled. I think it blow hotter out the vents, but, I'm gunna disconnect that sensor and see if that will give me max hot all the time. if it's cold out, it doesn't blo3w very hot air. it warms up the inside eventually but I have had cars that get hotter faster.
What's heat inside the car got to do with the leaky water pump?
Anyway I disagree about getting the stop leak out of there. You're supposed to use the coolant supplement tablet things in these cars, which everyone has been saying is the same as the Bar's stuff. No you shouldn't use the stuff to get around fixing leaks properly but it also won't do any damage to the engine using it. The service manuals say to use it and I think even the sticker under the hood says it it too.
I think the stop leak stuff people are discouraging against is the liquid crap marketed as instant head gasket repair, or seals leaks in radiators, etc... The bars leak stuff that the manual and hood decal say is required is ok, You add that to a clean, fresh, externally leak free system and it helps fill porous leaks within the engine. The powder suspends in the coolant and expands to fill small holes when it contacts air, which is perfectly fine. If you use to much you can easily clog the heater core, My heater core was clogged because the previous owners did not maintain the system at all and the bars leak I added just made the clog worse, requiring a new core.
Stop leaks I see that I would avoid which probably can cause damage are those market to "fix" problems like head gaskets that would otherwise cost a lot of money to fix, these seem really nasty for the car. I tried some instant power steering fix stuff from lucas, said it quited and fixed leaks and seals in the steering rack. Turns out it was just very thick fluid that turned to a gel when it got cold which reduced flow and made steering more difficult until the car warmed up and it thinned out. I drained all that crap out and started over, emailed lucas about the money back guarantee and they never replied, I guess I just coughed up 10 dollars to realize that miracle i a bottle crap just doesnt work,
well...if there is an insufficient amount of coolant in the system, would that effect the temp of air being blown across the heater core and into the cabin?
Yes, If you have air in the system caused by lack of coolant you will have worse heater performance. The way I like to get air out is to fill the radiator from the filler neck, not overflow. Leave the cap off and start the engine, it should suck the level down so keep filling the radiator with the engine on until the level evens out and stops dropping. Let it run a bit then shut it off, replace the cap and fill the overflow tank up to full hot. Then close the system up and run the car again for a minute till it reaches temp and opens the T-stat.
Then just check the levels again once cool and monitor it for a few days to make sure it doesn't drop more.
I know it was mentioned before aswell but check for the restrictor in the T valve up by the core, the arrow should point toward the pass side of the car,