Yes youre correct, ive finally come across another picture that showed the wiring. So now my question is, if it was hooked up with the PCM lead (brn/wht) plugged into where the 12V (pink) was SUPPOSED to go, the ground (blk/red) plugged into where the PCM lead (brn/wht) was SUPPOSED to go and the 12v (pink) plugged into where the ground (blk/red) was SUPPOSED to go....and it was driven like this for quite some time... would that have fried the cam sensor??
Yes, I know I'm correct and you're welcome. I went out and dug through the parts box before I went to work to find the old wiring harness so I could help you out. I didn't work from a picture, I had the parts on the desk in front of me.
As far as frying the Hall Effect switch, it wouldn't surprise me if it could. I assume you are asking because, even with the wiring connected correctly, it is still exhibiting problems?
I have a couple of scans of the diagnostic for the switch from the Chilton manual, too large to post here, that I can email if you advise the address.
You can get an inexpensive but serviceable digital MM at Sears or Home Depot for about $20. A DMM is really a "must have" item for your toolbox.
Right, and if you're lucky enough to have a Harbor Freight store nearby, you can get a REALLY inexpensive DVOM for $2.99. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
Yeah, I know it's cheap, but they work, and my tools have a habit of growing legs and wandering off. If I buy 4 or 5 of those at a time there's a better chance of being able to find one when I need it.