Cadillac Owners Group - Northstar Performance and Technical Discussion

add torque struts(dog bones) to 99 seville

smooththg6969 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:20:44 GMT

Well I got tired of replacing the front motor mounts on my 99 seville. As we all know this mount goes out repeatedly probably due to the high amount of heat and torque they are subject to. I got tired of waiting months on end for someone to design produce and sell a solid motor mount to rid me of these problems. So I went searching through numerous of threads finding as much info as possible to why the mounts are so weak . It seems that GM tried to save a few pennies by eliminating the torque struts (AKA DOG BONES) on the newer sevilles. This created a problem. The gm stock front motor mount can�t handle too many WOTS or much spirited driving. So I went out to my local pull it yourself auto parts yard in search of some torque struts. I pulled a set off of a late 90s Deville that was a cash for clunkers car.

I made sure to get all the brackets associated with them. I also saw a nice looking 98-99 seville with Beautiful black leather interior which was in better condition than my tan/ shale interior. Needless to say I went back the next morning and gutted the whole car. Back on subject.

After doing some rough measurements it looks like the struts will fit on the motor with some slight modifications to the routing of the power steering return hose and alternator coolant supply hose.

You will have to cut a small piece of to bracket to get it to sit flush on the motor. You might also have to support the upper radiator hose to keep it off of the water pump pulley (my guard is missing). One problem that I did run into is the routing of the fuel and return lines.

to be continued

Turbo Charged 99 STS

MARK99STS — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:15:14 GMT

Well it's been a long time since I have been on the forums. Been very busy personally with work and have about a million irons in the fire on every other front.
Thought I would update everybody on the car. It's running great but I've been wanting to get in the 11's for a long time at the track and I new I would have to do some more upgrades to get there. I am now running a 70mm turbo and added an electric exhaust cutout to maximize the efficiency of the 3" pipe coming off the turbo and it sounds awesome. I upgraded the injectors to 60lb as the 42's were maxed out at 14psi. I decided to give it a shot on the last day of the season for test & tune.

I ran the car almost completely out of gas and for safety, put in 7 gal of 115 octane race gas even though I had a good tune on the car but I have never run over 14 lbs of boost and we were planing on cranking it up to 20 lbs of boost. I data logged my first run and I about crapped when I reviewed it. I hit 21.4 lbs of boost and it held it rock steady thru the entire run. I did a 12.20 at 118 mph. The problem was I had so much power I roasted the slicks all thru 1ST and 2ND gear. After the run I talked to a couple people there who saw me run and they looked at my slicks and said they were no good as they are about 3yrs old and had hardened which is why I was getting no traction.

I needed more weight on the front so I disconnected the links in the back to make the shocks go to max height and figured I would just sit in the pit and smoke the crap out of the tires to get them as hot and sticky as I could . I power braked on the line to build about 2 lbs of boost and let it rip. I still spun in 1ST but 2ND and 3RD grabbed and I ended up doing an 11.82@ 119.4 mph. My 60 foot was still horrible but at least I got in the 11's.

I have it on video and I am having a freind combine it with the other video of the car on you tube and put it all in one . Jim is also going to put it up on his website so I will get the link posted as soon as it is ready.

Mark 99STS

What tools do you need for a hg/engine pull job

bigds01 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:08:35 GMT

I need some advice. Other then a standard toolkit and engine lift, what other tools do you need to yank the engine on a 94 seville, do jake's stud kit, and swap the gaskets? I want to make sure I get what I need before I start the job.

headgasket need used insert kit

coaster — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:26:52 GMT

I would like to buy a used insert kit i look on ebay but couldnt find one. If any body is selling a used kit i will buy if not will buy new.if you go to thread headgasket being repaired you will understand.:thepan::lies:

Recent Stud Kit Customers - READ THIS PLEASE

97EldoCoupe — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:48:18 GMT

There was a small batch of studs that may have a machining imperfection.

If you need to apply quite a bit of force to install the studs into the block, these studs may be affected. A little bit of resistance is perfectly normal.

The threads are not cut deep enough on the large end of the stud. There is a slight taper on some. Thread pitch is not affected, just the depth.

The solution: Contact me for immediate replacement but CHECK the studs first. Many are not affected. Another option if you're in a hurry and cannot wait for shipping is to run a 5/8x11 die over the stud to cut the threads a bit deeper. All defective studs must be returned to us because we will get reimbursed for our costs from the fastener plant.

Do NOT under any circumstances apply too much torque on studs that may be incorrectly machined.

All pending stud kit orders will not ship until we can get this matter resolved tomorrow morning. We will run a nut over each stud before any orders ship.

My sincerest apologies and I assure all future customers that this will not happen again.

Thank you,

-Jake
Northstar Performance

HELP My mechanic says I have carboned lifters

2002mnss — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:07:26 GMT

My 30,000 mile Seville SLS has loud lifters according to my mechanic. He says there is a lot of carbon bulid up. It is still loud on heavy acceleration. Any additives I can add to free them up?
THANKS!!!!

What color are stock gaskets?

Carvone — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:12:49 GMT

I have a 2000 Eldorado and I am trying to determine if the engine has been torn down before or not. My cam cover gaskets are orange, front cover gasket is orange and the head gaskets are black with a silver cross pattern on them.
Most stock engines use black gaskets from the factory that I have seen but this is a northstar after all. So what color gaskets did the northstar come with from the factory?
Thanks all.

Dumb head gasket question

bigds01 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 11:32:20 GMT

Hey,

If I am doing the stud kit replacement, do I need the entire Felpro 189 dollar kit from rockauto or do I just need two hg at 20 bucks each?

Resetting Timing after Head Gasket job.

mshamba — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 03:11:24 GMT

Just finished my Headgasket job on 98 deville. Motor out from the top, cradle dropped after the fact, timesert inserts and almost 5 weeks. Here's the problem: The car started fine but made awful noise. I thought it might be low oil pressure but the dash (DIC) was clear. I put it in reverse and backed it out of my shop, put it in drive and started to pull away and it died. Happened twice. I'm thinking the timing is off a tooth because this has happened before to me on a pushrod engine. I marked the chain to cam sprocket locations before removing and I put them back on the same way. The cam drive pins were at 90 deg to the top but the marks on the idler and main gears did not line up. When I rotated the crank until the marks on the idler and main gear lined up, the cam drive pins were at 90 deg. at the bottom. Since the FSM just says they have to be a 90 degrees and doesn't say top or bottom (although it shows top) I left it. I didn't rotate it around multiple times as I have since noticed in other threads. My questions are: Can the timing be fixed without removing the front cover? Does it matter if the cam drive pins are up or down at TDC? If I have to remove the front cover, do I have to pull the engine again?
Thanks

Cadillac Engineers please help us!

97EldoCoupe — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:04:17 GMT

I've asked Cadillac engineers/designers on Cadillac's facebook page to come to this forum to understand what Caddy owners would like. Welcome to Cadillac forums and thank you.

For a long time now we've been trying to gain more performance out of the OBD2 cars (96 - present) cars than the factory rated 300 HP and what is stopping us is the lack of support to re-tune the factory PCM.

Cadillac corporate employees- please understand that we are willing to put money where our mouths are. Your support with past vehicles will help new vehicle sales as well because the more Cadillacs you see at car shows and drag strips, the more attention the brand will draw.

My stock 1998 STS ran a 14.95 quarter mile time a couple months ago. The Northstar V8 engine is simply an amazing piece of engineering.

There are all kinds of preformance upgrades available for the Ford 4.6 liter V8.

The Cadillac 32 valve Northstar is a better design and we all know it. It is screaming to be modified, but because of the limits of inability to re-tune the stock PCM it isn't happening.

Cadillac, please lend us a hand and give us some type of new programming options for the OBD II Northstars that will allow us to defeat torque management, keep 1st gear when turning the traction control off, and adjust timing and fuel tables for running superchargers and turbos. Many people have tried to retune the PCM with no success. Who could do it better than the original designers?!

My shop, Northstar Performance, will provide the financial backing and work with you in any way necessary to open these cars up to their full potential. Believe me, it will help add to the future success of Cadillac in many ways.

Many Cadillac owners stand along side me in this pursuit for more performance.

All we need is a file that is unlocked so that we can change certain parameters to suit our needs. Most of these vehicles (if not all) are now out of warranty so GM will not be responsible in any way for any failure as a result. Please work with us.

To speak with me directly please email jwiebe@northstarperformance.com or call 519-875-2970.

All forum members who second this motion to have Cadillac engineers help us with PCM re-tuning, please make it known and post "Please help us Cadillac" below! :yup:

how do i change my idle

eyekandyboats.inc — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:17:28 GMT

My car is idling a bit low i feel.
is there a way to bring the idle up mechanicly?
adjust something on the throttle body?
2001 DTS BTW
thanks taylor-

head gasket help!!!!!!

lacycosmo — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:31:29 GMT

Believe it or not we replaced the head gaskets on a 4.0 northstar engine. however, we cannot get the timing chains back on. the tension is too tight. Does anyone know how to adjust the tension? we really dont want to take out the motor. any ideas are appreciated:banghead:

Transmission cooling

bigds01 — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 02:22:27 GMT

If I am going to say race a 94 seville sls, I should probably make sure the transmission stay cool.

Any idea on how to keep the transmission cool? Does anyone make a secondary cooling kit?

Idle at 3000 RPM HELP!!!

fhogeweg — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:27:52 GMT

Hello everyone,

Last week i repalaced the brakelines of my 1993 sts 4.6l northstar.
After the repair i have start the engine and i went straight to the 3000 RPM. It would not stop so i turned it of and looked around. Nothing strange that i have seen before. The next day i have cleand out the trottlevalve with intake cleaner it still wasn't over. But when i started the engin it wil go to about 2200 RPM. But when i toch the pedal once it will stay on 3000 RPM again. When it is rotating at 3000 RPM the trottlevalve is fully closed.

I allready pulled out the code's but nothing has come up.
What could be the problem or what can i check? I can't drive like this. When i am driving it wil drive about 90 km/h without me touching the gas.

Much thanks in advance.

added power?

SSNSOCALFAN — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 06:15:23 GMT

how to add HP on a 2000 el dawg etc

northstar crank sensors

jubjub — Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:36:48 GMT

ok guys my first post. Iam currently building a 98 seville sls that im turbo charging. the question I have concerns crank sensors. the motor I built is a mixture of northstars I had lying around. ok here it goes, the block is a 2002 out of a dts. the heads are 98 with vin 9 cams and springs. due to the fact that the car is a 98 im using old style crank sensors. so I have a 98 crank in the 2002 block which uses the "new" style sensors.so im running the "old style sensors in the 02 block. as far as I can tell the hole depths are the same. however the magnetic tip appears to be contacting the reluctor wheel on the crank. has anyone ever monitored the ac voltage output of these crank sensors? ive modified (ground down) the tips and still no spark or injector pulse. the sensors are generating around 1 volt ac. this seems to be the correct voltage as compaired to a running vehicle. If any one has another test let me know. ps I work as a cadillac tech w about 15 years exp. so ive checked the basics like codes and wiring.

2000 DTS plugs and hoses - tough job, I think

tateos — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 17:51:01 GMT

Summary: 2000 DTS - 78,000 miles, purchased new in 1/2000. Was my father's car in MA, he bought a new one in 2008, so he sent it out to AZ for me to use a year and a half ago. Now he's buying a place here in AZ, so he will be here for the Winter, maybe longer. He had the cooling system flushed once a few years ago. I did not trust the 10 year old hoses, so I decided to change them before a flush and fresh fill of coolant. Also, the plugs have been in there for 10 years, so I wanted to at least remove and replace them, before they get too locked on place.

Difficulty 1: The left bank was fairly easy, but the right/rear bank has this air valve thingy in the way, and it takes it's toll on knuckle and forearm skin and my back, standing on a step stool and leaning over the car, to get that apparatus off and out of the way. Next, the coil and module assembly has 8 bolts and an electrical connector that have to come off, but there still wasn't enough room to slip that assembly past the valve cover and firewall. That meant I had to loosen the sub-frame bolts and rock the engine forward enough to gain access. It's a good thing I am a HG project graduate, so I knew what to do and wasn't afraid to loosen those subframe bolts, but what a pain, just to change some plugs! The plugs all looked very good - good enough to re-install, in fact. This engine had been replaced by Cadillac under warranty fairly early on in the life if the car, so the engine, and so therefore the spark plugs, may only have around 50-60K miles on them. I cleaned the threads on the plugs and put a light coating of anti-sieze on them and re-installed them - I think they will easily last until the heads gaskets blow.

Difficulty 2: The coolant hoses actually seemed to be in pretty good shape - not soft or bulging, but after 10 years, I just don't have faith in them not springing a leak at the most inopportune time. Well, most of the hoses are in VERY difficult places to get at, and releasing and removing those OE spring clamps is not easy. I know there is some special tool made for them, but I was trying to get by with various slip joint pliers and needle nose vise grips, and honestly, those clamps are so hard to get at, I don't know how you would fish that special tool up to where it needs to go anyway. I am about 2/3 done with the hoses, but there are at least 14 that need to be changed!

So, all told, I have spent 1 full day and 2 partial days and I'm not done yet. Maybe I'm slow, but that seems like a lot of time and work to change plugs and hoses. I'll be glad when it's done.

FPR acting up

Caddilac-T — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 11:16:55 GMT

Hi,
I have a question about the fpr which came about when searchin for a vacuum leak. First, a little history - 2001 SLS bone stock, 89,000 mi. overall, very good mechanical condition. This car runs and idles fine, no complaints except for the SES light indicating some sort of vacuum leak - Codes pulled are; P0171, and P0174. I have done all the preliminary tests, spraying brake kleen even starting fluid at all vacuum connections, removed intake manifold and changed gaskets. new O rings on injectors, plulled the plenum piece, and inspected it. also inspected the over pressure valve on the intake manifold.
Cleared the code, and after less 20 mi light comes back on again. So while troubleshooting this problem I noticed the fuel pressure measured at the fuel rail with pressure tester at 35psi. I disconnected the vacuum, and no gas was present at idle or slight rev. but the mystery is the pressure went up to 44psi with hose still disconnected! I put the hose back on - and back down to 35psi Is this suppose to react this way?? I changed out the fpr and identical results.
35psi with vacuum hose on, 44 with vacuum hose disconnected. After this I replaced the fuel filter with new one, and also replaced the fuel pump with a new one. Same problem, same codes, Any suggestions???
Caddillac T

98+ STS brake upgrade?

97EldoCoupe — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 03:54:20 GMT

I get a bit sick of seeing the message "traction suspended" on my STS. I researched the reason behind this: overheated brakes?

Does anyone make a brake upgrade kit for the newer FWD STS platform? If not I think I'll be able to figure something out. That 04 Pontiac GXP I just bought has massive front brakes, and I believe 2 piston calipers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the brake setup from the GXP bolt right on to an STS? They share the same chassis....

Spark plugs

rjba5450 — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 14:49:32 GMT

How do you change the spark plugs on a 2001 seville 4.6l

Email conversation with HEAL-A-SEAL

97EldoCoupe — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 16:21:00 GMT

My secretary (Charity) stumbled across HEAL-A-SEAL's site. She sent them a few emails pretending to be a potential customer. Here's the conversation:

Quote:

> From: charityanng@live.ca
> To: info@heal-a-seal.com
> Subject:
> Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 15:35:27 -0400
>
> Hi I aready e-mailed you once, and I understand it was sent on the
> friday just past, so pretty much, over the weekend. I am sorry about
> that, and I don't want to be impatient, but please get back to me ASAP.
> My car needs help, and I have to do somthing about this right away. I am
> eighther going to use you guys, or take my car to GM, or some people in
> Ontario here, called Northstar Performance. Anyway, thanks in advance.
> -Charity

And no reply so again:

Quote:

> From: charityanng@live.ca
> To: charityanng@live.ca
> Subject: RE:
> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 11:18:08 -0500
>
> Hi so way back in Aug I sent ya'll two e-mails about my Oldsmobile
> Aurora. I still have not received an answer! I was starting to think
> that maybe you just went out of buisness, but then why are you still
> paying for advertiment? You are still listed as a paying, sponsered
> link. That in it's self is odd to me. I was also thinking if you never,
> even after 3 months, respond to your e-mails, out of buisness must be
> the reason.
> But my head gaskets are shot, and northstar engines I hear are horrible
> to work on, so I figured I'de try once again. I need something fast,
> like 3 months ago fast. I love my car, and scrapping it is not an
> option. I have done a tone of research on these engines, with there head
> bolts that loosen over time, and I have talked to GM tec. Their pricing
> is rediculous! I did however find a shop in ontario, close to me that
> will pull the engine on my car, drill and tap it, and install some sort
> of stud. They say they will also do all of the oil seals, and water pump
> gaskets all for $2200.00.
> This is my next option. All I am asking of you is to give me information
> on your product, and is there some sort of garentee?
> Anyway, please answer ASAP
> Thanks

And finally a response:

Quote:

> Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 13:05:14 -0800
> From: Sales@Heal-A-Seal.com
> To: charityanng@live.ca
> CC: info@heal-a-seal.com
> Subject: RE: FW: please answer, my car is dying!
>
>
> ALL THE WRITINGS (AND ACTIVITIES!) THAT YOU HAVE DONE OVER SUCH A LONG
> PERIOD OF TIME CONFIRMS THE INITIAL IMPRESSION THAT YOU HAVE BEEN
> 'AGONIZING' IT SO MUCH THAT YOU COULD NOT SEE THE PROVERBIAL 'FOREST FOR
> THE TREES'!... (WHICH IS THE SAME REASON WHY 'REPLYING' EARLIER WOULD
> HAVE ACCOMPLISHED 0 - FOR EITHER ONE!)...
>
> EVEN IF YOU DID NOT RAISE ALL THE ISSUES THAT YOU DID (ALL OF THEM WELL
> COVERED ON OUR MOST INFORMATIVE WEBSITE - JUST RE-READ EVERY PAGE OF
> IT!), IN THE AFTERMATH OF ALL THAT THE ONLY WAY WE WOULD DEAL WITH YOU
> IS IF IN A >PHONE CONVERSATION< WE MUTUALLY AGREE THAT WE HAVE THE
> PRODUCT WHICH WILL SAVE YOUR ENGINE (NO QUESTION ABOUT THAT!) AND THAT
> YOU WILL LET US 'HANDLE' THE LOCAL *MOBILE MECHANIC* WHO WILL COME TO
> YOUR PREMISES TO DO THE TREATMENT! YOU PROVE THIS WRONG!
>
> SO, ANSWERED! YOUR TURN NOW!
>
> 1-877-BLOW-FIX - EXT. 17
>
>
>
> P.S. WE DO SHIP TO CANADA - SEVERAL UNITS EVERY SINGLE DAY!
>

Gee, they have amazing customer service, don't they.... :mad:

Oh and of course Charity's Aurora now has a studded 4.6 Northstar done by us.... the old 4.0 was still OK but the HG's were on their way out. Caught it in time.

She was very interested in how a miracle liquid could take the place of head bolts that need to hold down a cylinder head under combustion pressure...

O2 Sensors

Mr.J — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 22:43:26 GMT

Hi all, I'm new to the site I have been lurking for a short time so I figured it was time to join and as with most newbees I have a question.I own a 98 sts that has set a current code of p0146, if I'm not mistaken that is an 02 code for bank 1 sensor 3. Is this correct and if so which one is it,before or after the cat? Thanks for any and all help. Jerry

01 SLS w/ Cracked Block - Need Cincy Area Mechanic

BillDCat — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 17:02:33 GMT

I just got my hands on a 01 SLS that has a cracked block. My attempt to JBweld the crack - why not try - got me 95% there but it still leaks a bit. So I need a motor. I'm considering a reconditioned from Northstar Performance but I need someone to replace it. Does anyone know of a reasonable place around Cincinnati that they would recommend?

TIA,
Dan

06 DTS crank seal leaking

dzlfumes — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 17:02:01 GMT

Only 12,486 miles on my 06 DTS and I have a front crank seal leak!! What gives? It is being covered under warranty, but is there anything else that should be looked at or into? TIA for any help.

4t80e side cover drain

Taspeed — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:44:08 GMT

Anyone have a pic of the bottom of the tranny with the pan off that shows where exactly that drain plug is. When I changed my shift solenoids the plug was in the bottom of the pan stuck to the magnet, and I don't see where it goes. A picture would be great guys. thanks.

'98 STS stumbles and misses (NO CEL)

William Miller — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 18:00:54 GMT

We noticed this intermittently over the past month or so and now it's getting worse.

I read the following codes, but none seem applicable.... At least for my novice diagnostic experience.

AMP u1255 class 2 communication malfunction
AMP u1064 Loss of Communication with DIM (Dash Integration Module)
AMP u1128 Loss of communication with IRC (Integrated Radio Module)

PCM These are in History and may have something to do with the loose plug connection I found after I did the headgasket job.

PCM P0603 Control Module Long Term Memory Reset
PCM P1520 Transmission Range Switch Circuit
PCM P1527 Transmission Range to Pressure Switch Correlation

RFA B3108 (Current) Transmission Syncronization Failure

RIM B1009 (Current) Rear Integration Modual EPROM Checksum Error
RIM U1255 (History)

The engine seems to stumble at idle worse when in "Drive".
The car shakes.

I haven't spent much time looking at things yet, but, decided to submit this post while I was looking up the codes.

Could this be a symptom of a crank position sender going bad?
I think the car has a cam position sensor, does it have both?
Thanks for any thoughts on where to start looking.!

MAP sensor keeps going bad - 94 N*

AlanK — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:23:58 GMT

Hi Folks,
1994 Eldorado Touring Coupe 4.6L N*

The map sensor keeps going bad in this car. I can go into diagnostic mode on the computer and watch the erratic input on PD02. A new sensor will provide rock solid inputs to the computer for ~3 months after which the signal will become more and more erratic. Stutters and hesitation eventually give way to the engine stalling and not starting again until it cools enough for open-loop operation. These are dealer MAP sensors that keep failing.

Something is causing this sensor to fail. Does anyone have any ideas on what is happening? BTW, the engine doesn't burn any oil to speak of.

Many thanks and looking forward to some much needed help.
---
Alan

2004 dhs starting problem

99blackknight — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:24:15 GMT

I have a 2004 dhs that at first just cranked and cranked til it finally started but now it just clicks doesn't do anything was getting ready to do the fuel pressure regulator but seems I have bigger probs now does anyone know where the starter is located?do you think its that and not the switch? Any help would be appreciated

Attention All Northstar Technicians- New Northstar Drilling / Tapping Machine

97EldoCoupe — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 14:57:51 GMT

Northstar Performance is working on a system that will allow you to re-drill, tap, and install studs in an hour or less. We're hoping to knock the time down to 30 minutes to drill and tap both sides and maintain 100% accuracy. There will no longer be any need to tape up the blocks.

This will really cut down your time on each car that comes in.

Cost for this system will likely run around $1500-$2000 and should be available in about 3 weeks.

It will be on our website at www.northstarperformance.com as soon as more info is available.

headgasket being repaired

coaster — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 04:26:53 GMT

put car in the shop a week ago today charging me 1900 with inserts talk to him today and he sent the heads to the machine shop just to make sure there not warped he said very seldom that happens. the gasket on the back side had a small leak should be ready in acouple weeks for that price i cant complain.my sister and her husband and my mom been going to him for years has worked on northstars and said he has done 5 heads jobs so say a prayer for me will keep tou posted