Electrical Technical Information Discussion, 2000 Seville STS electrical draw in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Another story on electrical draws which may help others and I am requesting advice for follow up on this problem.
Another story on electrical draws which may help others and I am requesting advice for follow up on this problem.
I installed a new battery a couple of months ago, no problem there, I was amazed it was original. I thought I got my money's worth from that for a 11 year old car with 120,000 miles.
A few weeks ago the wife went to start the car on a Monday to go to work after it had rested all weekend. Completely dead. My first instinct is the alternator, as I am not a mechanic and did not know about parasitic draws.
I called to make an appointment with my favorite mechanic and he mentioned parasitic draws, and that it could be found quick, or take more time depending if it was found first or last. So, since my mechanic is popular and busy he could not book me for a month.
That led me to do research on this site and others to find out all I could. I purchased a multi meter, and did a static test and found 4.5 amp draw. I ended up pulling fuses, and discovered three problem areas. The fuses are for the instrument panel, ignition switch, and audio. With all three fuses pulled the draw went down to 0.5 amp, which is still high but a lot better.
The series in which I pulled the fuses made a difference in the measurements.
Yesterday, I just pulled fuses one by one. The audio, and ignition switch fuses showed slight drops on their own. When I pulled the instrument panel fuse it went up to 9 amps, instead of down.
Today, I pulled the fuses individually, and accounted for all of the draw that way. The audio and ignition switch fuses made the draw go down to about 2 amps, and then when I pulled the IP fuse the draw went down to about 0.89 amps. I pulled the hood bulb to get the draw down to 0.5 amps where I am at now.
I hope this is somewhat of a help to others. I know there are several posts on this topic, but none that I could find about the IP, ignition, and audio fuses.
My question: is it a problem with a module? and is that something I could replace without taking it to the shop? If possible I would like to do the work, and I am seeking info about removal and replacement of modules, ignition switch, or whatever,
update: I pulled the diagnostic codes and found memory seat module (MSM) codes, MSM 1900 driver belt tower vert sensor circuit malfunction, and MSM 2375 driver seat Asm Horiz. sensor circuit malfunction. Also I found tilt/telescoping module (TTM) codes TTM B 1982 device power circuit high, and B 1983 device power circuit low.
On your MSM codes: Has anyone had the seat apart to fix the heated seat elements? It's really easy to leave a sensor disconnected when you're putting the seat back together. (Been there, done that.) A disconnected sensor sets the code.
thanks for the reply: I have had the car for about 10 years and the seat has never been removed. I just feel that the TTM codes are related because of the seat, mirrors and steering wheel memory from the memory sensor. No problems what so ever from the heated seats. Never used that much. However, my wife said that the seat belt lock sticks now and then. There was an indication about the horiz and vert seat sensors which may be related as well. I sure don't see much on the internet about the memory module, do you have any leads?
Update: I think I found my problem but not entirely confident. Do not want to claim victory before the gremlins come back. I discovered that I needed to clear my codes first, and then proceed. After much head scratching I removed the CD magazine in the CD changer in the console. Voila! My meter showed zero amp draw! But, should I show some draw for the parasitic load, like 0.035-0.050 amps? Not sure, but if anybody wants to chime in I am open to suggestions, thanks,
my initial testing showed 4.5 amp draw on the negative side of the battery. I started pulling fuses to try and find the problem. I went through both front and rear fuse blocks. I found three problem fuses. Audio and ignition switch in the rear block, and instrument panel in the front fuse block. When I pulled the IP fuse the draw went up to 9 amps. I think the audio and ignition fuses charge to the IP circuit, so that was the reason for the jump? or maybe it had to do with the computer being awake with the hood open. I also pulled the light bulb for the hood, which gave me a current drop.
After that round of testing I decided to check my diagnostics. This showed multiple codes mostly related to communications (U). I got codes for MSM memory seat module, and TTM for tilt telescoping module which I thought could be the source of my problems.
After pulling the seat and looking for problems there and finding none I thought maybe the codes were the result of my pulling fuses during my circuit testing.
After I cleared the diagnostic codes, and ran the car no new codes showed up.
That is when I found the problem with the CD changer.
I have since discovered that my zero amp reading mentioned in my last post was due to a poor connection of the meter leads to the negative pole of the battery.
At present I am getting a reading of 35.6 mA which should be the parasitic draw. Knock on wood.
Now I get to move on to Body repair (wifey fender bender). There is no end to fixing things is there? marital security?
i've seen many, many posts about enormous draws occuring after the car is turned off and the key removed. i ran into a 98 deville today that had a similar issue, and after much backtracking through the system and pulling fuses while watching the meter and scratching my head bald, i hooked up the scanner and took a look in the body control module.
the ignition switch position was apparently in the accessory position, even with the key removed. in fact, sticking the key in the ignition and turning it to the first position will place it in unlock/off but will prevent you from removing the key. turning it backwards to the wheel lock/remove key position will actually place the switch in accessory mode, which keeps the body control module alive, power windows active, the radio useable, etc.
i haven't yet pulled the column to see for myself, but my thought is that there is some sort of wide-scale malfunction in these switches that is the cause of so many parasitic draw headaches. that, and the fact that so many of these complaints involve a very large, battery-murdering draw like a key being left in accessory.
i've seen many, many posts about enormous draws occuring after the car is turned off and the key removed. i ran into a 98 deville today that had a similar issue....
The information in the remainder of your post will probably help some future reader with a similar vehicle. If they can find it.
But there is no relevance to a '98 - '04 Seville and the original poster's thread title is specific about year/model.
These years of Sevilles have the key switch in the dash panel; not on the steering column.
And, these years of Sevilles do not lock the steering column.