So I ran the onboard diagnostics, and the code really were going by fast, so I ran them a few times, until finally my battery died.
Here is what I got though:
DIM
B1983
U1300
U1255
U1066
IPC
B1983
U1300
U1301
B1562
IRC
B1780
B1970
U1129
U1016
U1065
PCM
P1626
P1327
P0603
I gotta keep in mind that I just replaced the Ignition Switch and therefore disconnected my battery before running these codes, so I assume some of them were tripped up because of that.
Several of your codes relate to theft lock and that could be because the ignition switch was replaced and the key transponder is not correct. B1780 is radio theft lock (possible incorrect VIN programmed). P1626 is theft deterrent, fuel enable circuit.
Several of your codes are not listed and it is possible you transposed the numbers in your haste when the battery was dieing?? B1562, B1970, and P1327 are not valid codes. There is a chance that what you read as P1327 was really B1327 and B1327 is telling you the battery voltage is less than 9 Volts.
But back to your original post. The systems you mentioned as not working are powered up through several relays in the box under the rear seat cushion. Check the operation of relay #41 ("IGN 1"), and #49 ("IGN 3"). I would also check every fuse in the box with an Ohmmeter; fuses can fail open but still "look" good.
You will need to start with a fresh charge on your battery (or another battery). When I am working around the car with doors opening and closing, I always use a screwdriver to close the door latch so the interior lamps do not cycle every time I open/close a door.
Is there an aftermarket alarm installed? Was there any repair done immediately prior to the original problem showing up?
Ok, so the fuses are fine. I took the car in to get diagnosed at a garage my buddy works at and they said that the PCM is bad, and that it probably fried the new ingition switch I had just put it.
So, I have to now replace the PCM and the ignition switch again.
-Is there a chance that the new ignition switch is still good?
-If I replace the PCM and leave the freshly replaced ignition switch (that might be fried) could a faulty ignition switch fry a PCM?
I did some research and found out hat the PCM is under the glove box. I should've known... I replaced one in a '85 Seville when I was a teenager.
Anyway, the question stands now... Is there a possibility that a faulty ignition switch will fry a PCM, or can I just try replacing ust the PCM to see if it will work?
I wanted to clarify something about my problem, I noticed that the electrical issues are intermittent. Sometimes the radio will come on when you start the car, or sometimes the dash will light up when you start the car.
My concern still stands, is it possible for a faulty ignition switch to fry out a PCM, because when I replace the PCM I don't want to have to also replace the ignition switch if I don't have to. Unless of course there is a risk of frying the new PCM.
Where is the BCM located? and could this be the culprit?
Anything is possible, but I would not suspect a fried PCM is causing your problems. You have not mentioned any engine or transmission difficulties.
And there is not a single BCM; there are several modules that control the body functions (as it were). They are the Dash Integration Module (DIM), the Instrument Panel Module (IPM), and the ignition switch. A corroded or damaged wire or connector at any of these places could cause an intermittent condition like you describe.
Before you start digging too deep into the module level, I would check every fuse in the car for corrsion or suspicious contact tightness. In particular check the following in the rear fuse box; 15A "IGN SW", 10A "DIM", 10A "IGN 3 RR", 10A "IGN 1". And in the underhood fuse box, the 15A "IP".
If the battery was left in place during storage and the battery case was leaking acid fumes for an extended period with no air circulation, corrosion could easily take place.
Fuses are a friction fit and there will be tension on the blades. If one or more pull out too easily, further investigation is warranted. The fuse blades should be clean; green stuff is not good.
Also inspect both battery cables for corrosion. Or did you do that already?
I checked the fuses with a flashlight to see if any were blown, but I didn't pull every single fuse to check for tension or corrosion. I will do that ASAP.
As far as acid fumes or corrosion of the battery cables.. I'll post some pics if I find anything suspect.
Ok, I checked all the fuses and cables, and battery. No corrosion anywhere that I could see.
I checked all the fuses and they looked good, except for the fact that two of the fuses under the hood looked like they had been worn out more (the metal parts looked like more electricity had gone threw them - IGN 1, PCM IGN, IP), even though they still looked intact. I replaced them anyway, still nothing.
-How do I check a relay for faults? Aside from replacing it.
It seems like the more I start the car, the more consistent the dash display actually lights up. When the car was sitting for a while, when you started the car, the dash wouldn't light up. After starting a couple times, the dash is consistently lighting up, although nothing else works.
-If I replace the PCM just to be sure, should I definitely also replace the ignition switch again? What are the chances the PCM fried my new ignition switch?
-Can the car be driven with out having the PCM programmed? (I would drive it to the dealership to get programmed)
Having a replacement relay is the quick way to identify a faulty relay. You could use the same type relay from a different circuit as a temporary substitute to see if it makes any difference.
It seems like the more I start the car, the more consistent the dash display actually lights up. When the car was sitting for a while, when you started the car, the dash wouldn't light up. After starting a couple times, the dash is consistently lighting up, although nothing else works.
This could be pointing at a relay, or relays, with dirty internal contacts. Each time you cycle the ignition, the relay contact motion is removing some of the corrosion and improving the connection across the relay switching contacts. Again, substituting known good relays one at a time is a certain way to identify a faulty relay.
-If I replace the PCM just to be sure, should I definitely also replace the ignition switch again? What are the chances the PCM fried my new ignition switch?
I would not throw (expensive) parts at it without a firm diagnosis. And if you are still not getting any "P" codes, there is no reason to suspect the PCM.
It sounds like you are making some progress and the condition is improving slightly. From this end of the description it sounds like you are chasing something that probably developed when the car was not being driven. Sometimes a dirty or slightly oxidized component such as a fuse or a relay can be cured simply be removing it and reinstalling it. The removing and installing effectively cleans the electrical contacts to the external circuit.
There is one thing you could try that would take less than one hour and cost nothing. Methodically remove and reinstall, one at a time, each and every fuse and relay in both of the fuse boxes. This will at least clean the external contacts on those pieces.
I pulled every single fuse and mixed and matched them, according to amp of course . I also pulled and mixed and matched every single relay. Still same prob.
I ran the codes a few times to really get them accurately written down and I noticed that they were a little different each time I ran them. I cleared the codes and ran them again, and I still got inconsistent codes. Here they are, some of them looked really weird. The word "sometimes" didn't show up, I just wrote that to specify which codes showed up inconsistently. Some of these inconsistent codes had really weird characters like ? or : or ; . I wrote them down exactly as they appeared.
U1160
U1065
U1064 Current
B1982
U1300
U1301
P0603 Current - sometimes
P1602 Current
P1604 History
P1611 Current
P1612 Current
P1613 Current
P1614 Current
P1615 Current
P1626 Current
P1652 Current
B1160
B1161
B1159
B1163
B1780
B1129
U1000
U1096
U1064
U1065
U1040 Current
U1255
U1016
U1160
RIM
P0405 - sometimes
P0627 - sometimes
P0927 - sometimes
P0874 - sometimes
P06::: - sometimes
P372? - sometimes
P1008 - sometimes
P0?20 - sometimes
P021; - sometimes
P2:56 - sometimes
C0755 - sometimes
U2511 - sometimes
B2:56 - sometimes
Some of these codes are clearly invalid, but this is exactly the way they showed up on the dash. Codes U1300 and U1301 seemed interesting:
U1300 Current = Class 2 Short to Ground
U1301 History = Class 2 Short to Battery
-What could cause these? and how could you diagnose this?
-Also there is more PCM codes now, what could that mean?
....I ran the codes a few times to really get them accurately written down and I noticed that they were a little different each time I ran them. I cleared the codes and ran them again, and I still got inconsistent codes. Here they are, some of them looked really weird. The word "sometimes" didn't show up, I just wrote that to specify which codes showed up inconsistently. Some of these inconsistent codes had really weird characters like ? or : or ; . I wrote them down exactly as they appeared....
If it was my car, I would look to a Cadillac-only dealer for diagnostic help at this point. You might be able to locate an independent shop with the proper equipment but there is no question that a Cadillac dealer service department would have it.
An experienced Cadillac technician with a heavy diagnostic background will be able to eliminate all the guesswork and zero in on the source pretty fast.
I would also go to the top of the food chain and visit the Service Manager. Take along a one page executive summary of your symptoms including the fact that the car sat for some period, what you have done, and the list of codes and weird characters you have seen displayed.
I took it into a Cadillac Dealership this morning. They said that they couldn't communicate with the PCM and that they couldn't tell me if anything else is faulty without first replacing the PCM. I told them I'll get back to them tomorrow.
-Can the car be started and driven with a fresh PCM which hasn't yet been programmed?
-Can a Neutral Safety Switch be the cause of any of this?
I hate to point this out now, but since you mentioned the battery died, have you had the battery load checked, what about the charging system? Low voltage could cause all of the symptoms you've mentioned....I wouldn't be surprised if this were the issue as the car has been sitting for awhile.
Should I just buy a new battery? It starts fine now, but could be low, is that what you mean? I'm low on cash, but if thats all it could be, then I'm all for it.
Also, I've talked to a couple different techs about the PCM. They all said it has to be programmed, maybe their wrong, but I got inconsistent answers on if the car would start and drive without programming it first.
Thanks for the insight, I'll definitely keep up with the updates on the development.
I took it to Kragen Auto to get the battery tested, they said that the battery doesn't test as a bad battery but it needs to be charged, it is at 60%
What I noticed (that wasn't there before when I checked the cables as advised by JimD), was green slime covering the inside of the screw that holds the Positive cable in place. Looked like there was also some coming out of the hole where the Positive cable goes into.
I'm going to buy a new battery regardless of what Kragen Auto told me.
-I'll post the results, if this doesn't fix the problem, could this have blown my PCM?
-Should I just clean off the screw? or do I have to get a new one?
-Also, is there any specific way or substance/cleaner that would be best to use to clean off the green slime?
All of the modules in the car become unreliable and can set false codes when the system voltage drops below 9 Volts. And you have had a discharged battery at least once during this procedure. Page down to post #6 and check the second paragraph. Code B1327 is the warning.
So... do you have a fresh battery and squeaky clean connections now? Are you up and running again?
I don't see how because the key switch is only powering up circuits that operate on 12 volts. And that is all the voltage you have. But I have been wrong before today.
You obviously have other wheels to drive while fighting this situation. Keep after it! And keep the feedback coming.
When I put it in, the car started but the same problem was happening. The mechanic hooked up the Tech2 and at least the PCM was communicating.
All of the codes were now in the history, no "current" codes, which seemed like a good sign.
The PCM is getting programmed now, should be ready either today or tomorrow depending on when they can get to it.
I'll keep you posted.
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