PCM Code P0410

[2002STSPa]

I got this code. I know it is related to the smog pump (or whatever they call them now). My question is that I got this code after going to a Valvoline instant oil change place (yeah I am lazy like that). They boys take out the air filter to show it to me. Could they have knocked somthing loose at that time. I would go look but the weather went to crap here (freezing rain/snow) and my garage is temporarily unusable. Is the secondary air induction unit located near the main air filter housing? Could have a wire been knocked loose by one of the boys?

[CadillacSTS2003]

yuh def not fun to go out now....
i doubt they knocked anything at the air filter...

[CadillacSTS2003]

here man
ALL you need to know....

DTC P0410
Circuit Description
The secondary air injection (AIR) pump used on this vehicle lower tail pipe emissions during start-up. The AIR system consists of the following items:

The AIR pump
The shut-off valves
The vacuum control solenoid valve
The system hoses/piping
The AIR relay, fuses, and related wiring
The powertrain control module (PCM) uses the AIR relay to control the AIR pump. The PCM also controls the AIR vacuum control solenoid valve that supplies vacuum to the AIR shut-off valves. With the AIR system inactive, the AIR shut-off valves prevent air flow in either direction. With the AIR system active, the PCM applies ground to the AIR relay, and the vacuum control solenoid valve. Fresh air flows from the pump, through the system hoses, past the shut-off valves, and into the exhaust stream. The air helps the catalyst quickly reach normal working temperature, thus lowering the tail pipe emissions on a start-up. The PCM tests the AIR system for the following conditions:

AIR system, overall system including both banks, and results in DTC P0410
AIR system bank 1 (DTC P1415)
AIR system bank 2 (DTC P1416)
AIR relay (DTC P0418)
AIR vacuum control solenoid (DTC P0412)
The PCM runs two tests to diagnose the AIR system: Passive, and Active. Both tests involve a response from the fuel control heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) bank 1 sensor 1 and HO2S bank 2 sensor 2. If both passive tests pass, the PCM takes no further action. If either part of the passive test fails, or is inconclusive, the PCM initiates the Active tests. If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages did not respond as expected during the tests, DTC P0410. For further information concerning the AIR system and system tests, refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) System Description .

Conditions for Running the DTC
Passive Tests
DTCs P0102, P0103 P0106, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0131, P0132, P0133, P0134, P0135, P0137, P0138, P0140, P0141, P0151, P0152, P0153, P0154, P0155, P0157, P0158, P0161, P0200, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355, P0356, P0357, P0358, P0506, P0507, P1133, P1134, P1138, or P1171 are not set.
The engine is running for more than 2 seconds.
The engine speed is more than 1000 RPM.
The throttle is steady.
The engine load is less than 80 percent .
The system voltage is more than 10.5 volts.
The mass air flow (MAF) is less than 35 g/s.
The air fuel ratio is more than 11.1:1
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 5-110°C (41-230°F).
The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 5-72.5°C (41-162.5°F).
The power enrichment, or deceleration fuel cut-off (DFCO) not active.
The start up engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 5-80°C (41-176°F).
Active Tests
The engine is running.
The engine speed is more than 1000 RPM.
The throttle is steady.
The engine load is less than 80 percent .
The system voltage is more than 10.5 volts.
The mass air flow (MAF) is less than 75 g/s.
The fuel system is in Closed Loop operation.
The evaporative emission (EVAP) purge is active.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is more than 68°C (154°F).
The short term fuel trim is between -3 and +3 percent.
The fuel trim is in cells 4, 5, or 6.
Conditions for Setting the DTC
Passive Tests
During the operation of the AIR pump, the HO2S voltage for both fuel control sensors is above 300 mV for 12 seconds, 350 mV for 9 seconds on a hot start.
When the AIR pump is turned OFF, the HO2S voltage for both fuel control sensors is below 600 mV for 25 seconds, 7 seconds on a hot start.
The condition is present for 3 occurrences.
Active Test

The HO2S voltage for both fuel control sensors is above 250 mV for 3 occurrences.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:
Low system air flow may cause this DTC to set.
Excessive exhaust system back-pressure
Moisture, water, or debris ingestion into the AIR pump.
Pinched, kinked, heat damaged, or deteriorated hoses or vacuum lines
Restrictions in the pump inlet, duct, or filter
If the condition is intermittent, refer to Intermittent Conditions .
Step
Action
Yes
No

Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics

1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls

2
Is the AIR pump fuse OK?
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 14

3
Did DTC P0412 or DTC P0418 also set?
Go to DTC P0412 or DTC P0418
Go to Step 4

4
Install the scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the AIR system ON and OFF with a scan tool.
Does the AIR pump turn ON and OFF?
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 5

5

Important
Refer to Electrical Center Identification Views in Wiring Systems for relay terminal identification.


Turn OFF the ignition.
Remove the AIR pump relay.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Probe the AIR pump relay B+ supply circuit terminal on the switch side of the relay using the J 34142-B Test Lamp connected to a good ground. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 16

6
Jumper the B+ terminal to the AIR pump feed circuit at the relay harness connector using a fused maxi 40-amp jumper wire.

Does the AIR pump turn ON?
Go to Step 22
Go to Step 7

7
Ensure that the jumper still installed.
Disconnect the AIR pump electrical connector.
Probe the AIR Pump Supply Voltage circuit at the AIR pump electrical connector using the J 34142-B Test Lamp connected to battery ground. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 17

8
Connect the J 34142-B Test Lamp between the AIR Pump Supply Voltage circuit and the ground circuit of the AIR pump harness connector.

Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 24
Go to Step 18

9
Disconnect the vacuum source from the AIR solenoid valve. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve Replacement .
Connect a vacuum gage to the vacuum source.
Start and idle the engine.
Does the vacuum gage display engine vacuum?
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 21

10
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the vacuum source to the AIR solenoid valve.
Disconnect the vacuum hose to the AIR shut-off valves at the AIR solenoid valve.
Connect a vacuum gage to the AIR solenoid valve port.
Start and idle the engine.
Command the AIR system ON with a scan tool.
Does the vacuum gage display engine vacuum?
Go to Step 11
Go to Step 23

11
Inspect the vacuum lines to each AIR shut-off valve for the following conditions:

Kinks
Restrictions
Poor connections
Damage
Leaks
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 21
Go to Step 12

12
Disconnect both AIR intermediate hoses/pipes from the AIR shut-off valves.
Start and idle the engine.
Command the AIR system ON with a scan tool.
Is air pressure present at both hoses?
Go to Intermittent Conditions
Go to Step 13

13
Inspect for restrictions, poor connections, or damage at the following locations:
The AIR inlet hose and AIR outlet hose from the AIR pump
The AIR intermediate hoses/pipes
The AIR crossover hose/pipe
The AIR pump
Repair as necessary. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Outlet Pipe/Hose Replacement , Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Crossover Pipe/Hose Replacement , Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Intermediate Pipe/Hose Replacement - Bank 1 , Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Intermediate Pipe/Hose Replacement - Bank 2 , or Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Replacement .
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 26
Go to Intermittent Conditions

14
Turn OFF the ignition.
Remove the AIR pump relay from the underhood electrical center.
Remove the AIR pump fuse from the underhood electrical center.
Probe the battery feed terminal for the AIR pump relay harness connector with the J 34142-B Test Lamp connected to B+.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 19
Go to Step 15

15
Disconnect the AIR pump harness connector at the pump.
Probe the AIR pump supply voltage circuit at the harness connector with the J 34142-B Test Lamp connected to battery voltage.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
Go to Step 20
Go to Step 25

16
Repair the open circuit between the fuse and the relay. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 26
--

17
Repair the open circuit between the AIR pump and the AIR pump relay. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 26
--

18
Repair the poor ground connection or the open ground circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 26
--

19
Repair the short to ground in the ignition feed circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 26
--

20
Repair the short to ground in the circuit between the AIR pump relay and the AIR pump. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 26
--

21
Replace the vacuum hose or vacuum check valve as necessary.

Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 26
--

22
Replace the AIR pump relay.

Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 26
--

23
Replace the AIR solenoid valve. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 26
--

24
Inspect for poor connections at the AIR pump electrical connector. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
Repair the poor connection as necessary. Refer to Repairing Connector Terminals in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 26
Go to Step 25

25
Replace the AIR pump. Refer to Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Replacement .

Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 26
--

26
Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.
Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC run and pass?
Go to Step 27
Go to Step 2

27
With a scan tool, observe the stored information, Capture Info.

Does the scan tool display any DTCs that you have not diagnosed?
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
System OK

[JimD]

A wire knocked loose? Possible but it would almost have to be intentional.

Have you driven the car far enough long enough to get the engine running up to normal temperatures? Clear the code, take a 20 mile drive in the snow and freezing rain and see if the code returns.

The system is called secondary air injection and all it does is pump air into the exhaust manifolds to get the catalytic converter heated up when the engine is operating in open loop mode.

[2002STSPa]

Originally Posted by CadillacETC1997

yuh def not fun to go out now....
i doubt they knocked anything at the air filter...

Couldn't respond to your PM (I dont have 50 posts yet), check your email.

[2002STSPa]

Originally Posted by JimD

A wire knocked loose? Possible but it would almost have to be intentional.

Have you driven the car far enough long enough to get the engine running up to normal temperatures? Clear the code, take a 20 mile drive in the snow and freezing rain and see if the code returns.

The system is called secondary air injection and all it does is pump air into the exhaust manifolds to get the catalytic converter heated up when the engine is operating in open loop mode.

I was on my way to a fine gentlemen's establishment with a few colleagues quite a drive from my humble abode when it the code went. I saw there is a TSB on it related to water getting in and shorting out the whole mess. That is probably what it is. I was hoping to luck out and get an easy fix.

[ewill3rd]

Those do have a tendency to suck up water, the problem is the hose inside the left fender.
It has a screen on it and if water splashes up inside the fender (actually behind the inner fender which is not overly common) but it won't keep out water. If you splash enough water up in there when the engine is running cold or if water gets into the hose and then the car sits and you start it the pump will come on, gulp up that water and kill itself.

This pump is the AIR pump. Sometimes referred to as the SAI pump.
AIR (Air Injection Reaction or Secondary Air Injection) is a cold start device that pumps fresh air into a cold rich running engine to burn off extra hydrocarbons in "open loop" while the engine warms up. Then it shuts off.
The new parts that the TSB speak about are designed to draw air from the engine air intake box rather than air from inside the fender so water is less likely to enter the inlet hose.
You'll probably have to replace the hose and pump as outlined in the bulletin, then check the maxi-fuse in the underhood fuse block to be sure it didn't blow.

There is one thing that can cause this code to set and a quick way to check it.
If the car has been sitting and is nice and cold start the engine. If you hear a vacuum cleaner type sound that shuts off after about a minute, then the pump is running, if you don't hear that sound it is probably bad.
If the hose is running, someone may have knocked one of the check valve vacuum hoses off. This will cause a vacuum leak and the check valves won't open, if the valves won't open the air from the pump can't get to the exhaust and the check engine light will come on.
There is a valve mounted near the water pump cover and one at the rear valve cover. The vacuum control solenoid is mounted in the middle of the intake towards the rear underneath the engine cover. Remove the cover and follow the lines to be sure they are both connected at the check valves.
If they are not, connect them and clear codes.
If they are connected and you don't hear the sound, you need to replace the AIR pump and install the new hose.

HTH

[ejguillot]

I'm seeing a similar problem, and have tried the suggestions on this thread without a solution. I'm getting an intermittent P1416 code (sets about once every 5 driving cycles). The code will set when the engine is warm, and when driving at a steady speed, usually over 35 mph.

The computer is not setting any other codes. I hear the vacuum cleaner sound on startup, and have checked the vacuum lines (they were in place and looked OK)

Other symptoms: When starting from cold, the car will either stall or near stall when idling (like at a traffic light) and the temp gauge is at the first mark (1/8). The car will not do this again for the rest of the drive, or when started warm/hot. This only happens when the car is almost completely cool.

Also noted: an intermittent hesitation to accelerate (like a bog) when cruising and light to moderate throttle input is requested. Almost feels like the transmission is taking its time deciding whether to unlock the torque converter or not. Heavier throttle input does now show this behavior.

What I've replaced on the car since I got it 6 months ago @ 91,250 miles (car now has 100,600 miles):

Spark plugs (used AC Delco 41-950), no wires to replace
Pre cat O2 sensors
Center engine mount (by radiator)
Crankshaft position sensors (was getting p0385 error code)
Coolant drained and refilled with DexCool mix
Oil changed, now at 70% life remaining
Fuel Pressure regulator
MAP sensor (was getting intermittent MAP too high error)
Throttle body cleaned, GM TEC used on engine as per procedures listed elsewhere on these forums.

Any ideas on how to proceed? I don't have a tech 2 to use.