Trunk opens S-L-O-W-L-Y
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Cadillac XLR Forum Discussion, Trunk opens S-L-O-W-L-Y in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Haven't seen this exact problem here; a couple of weeks ago I noticed the trunk was opening slower than normal, ...
  1. #1
    Dave Anderson is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 2006 CTS Luxury/Sport
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Wayne, PA
    Posts
    10

    Question Trunk opens S-L-O-W-L-Y

    Haven't seen this exact problem here; a couple of weeks ago I noticed the trunk was opening slower than normal, and now it barely opens at all, have to help it with my hand, especially when it's hot out. However it seems to work normally when putting the top down. Please help - thanks!

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  3. #2
    ccclarke's Avatar
    ccclarke is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
    Automobile(s): 2002 ETC Collector's Series, 2004 CTS-V, 2004 XLR
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    New England
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    609

    Re: Trunk opens S-L-O-W-L-Y

    Could be expensive, could be cheap. If you have a powerful flashlight, this would be a good job for it.

    Let's start with cheap: Your electrical system isn't putting out enough power. Always move the top while the engine is running. You can do about three cycles of the top on battery power alone and not be able to start the car.

    Another easy one: The Folding Top hydraulic oil reservoir is low. This is inexpensive; you just add fluid. It's located in the left/rear tub in the trunk, buried under the rat fur carpet. There's a min/max set of fill lines on the side of the reservoir. You can use the search function here to locate the part number for replacement oil or ask back.

    If the reservoir is low, this begs the question: Why? There could be a hydraulic leak somewhere in the car. To say this is a mess is an under-statement, especially if it happens above the headliner and pools up there. You would need a new hydraulic line, and replacement of damaged interior parts from the oil. This could get pricey.

    Look for a failing hydraulic cylinder that might show visible signs of leaking. Again, do a thorough visual inspection to see if there are any tell-tale signs of oil build-up. This is where flashlights can start to pay for themselves.

    Another cheap one: a faulty Position Sensor, reporting to the top's control module a top structural component is positioned where it isn't. Bad sensors are not uncommon in this car, and the repair costs are reasonable, especially compared to what comes next.

    And even cheaper: A Re-Learn of the sensor data stored inside of the Folding Top Control module, which could occur because of the previous possibility. The sensors age with use and may change value over time, which contradicts what the module expects to "see." I had this happen a few weeks ago (same symptoms as yours, then it degraded to the point where the top would stop before completing the command.) It was a ten-minute Re-Learn. A dealership shouldn't charge more than an hour for labor to reset the module with a Tech II.


    Nightmare 1.0: A Component of the Hydraulic Pump Assembly is failing. This can get fugly. A new hydraulic pump comes with an attached valve manifold and reservoir and runs north of $1600. A hydraulic valve can be sticking in the wrong position diverting less oil than required to lift the roof and it's the same. If you go that route, you'll need new O-rings for the hydraulic lines that need to be connected to the manifold. Labor on one of these jobs can be painful.

    Nightmare 1.1: While you're inspecting the tub, make sure the drain line (or hole in some cars) isn't blocked. The XLR is notorious for water draining in that area and wiping out the electronics in there. You can lose the hydraulic pump, the Folding Top Control module and the Suspension module from flooding in there.

    If it isn't one of the cheap/easy solutions, you should consider contacting a dealership with an XLR-certified tech. Write back with the cause/solution.

    Good luck,
    CC

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