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05 xlr stuck in drive

10K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  shawn.foist 
#1 ·
:bonkers:I don't know what happened! I backed out of my driveway went to put it in drive the shifter felt loose it went in drive but won't come out. now shifter still moves fine but seems a little looser than before.pushed the car in the driveway but now top is down it won't go up and can't get to the dealer till monday. any thoughts on what might have happened. I don't beat on the car at all and very rarely manual shift the cars only got 27 k on it I took the shift console off but can't see anything broke in there.:bighead::crying2::sneaky::hmm::helpless::cool2:
 
#2 ·
Why did you have to push the car into the driveway. You say it is stuck in drive, but the shifter moves fine. Do you mean the shifter moves, but the car appears to be in drive. You probably know that the top will not go up if the car is not in park. I have never had this area apart, but it either sounds like a shift link has fallen off or if it shifts by wire, the wire is off. I hope for your sake that is all that is wrong with it.
 
#4 ·
NO! Actually what happened is I backed out of the driveway.went to put the car in drive. (the Shifter felt looser than normal)It would not shift out of reverse,(But the shifter moves) so I shut the car off It is actually stuck in reverse.I took the console cover off and everything looked to be right .Meaning I don't see anything broke. I then had to push the car up the driveway and into the Garage because the top won't go up in gear.I have a gmpp warranty. My only fear is damage when towing! It will be brought to Cadillac on Monday.Can I shift the car with a tech 2,?( I can get one too use)I would rather drive it to the dealer.Clarke were are you?
 
#5 · (Edited)
The XLR's transmission is electrically-connected to the gear selector. With the trim panel off, use a strong light to inspect any related connectors and harnesses for pinching, (shorts) and open connections. If the shifter felt looser than normal to you, that may be significant as well. Sometimes, another set of eyes helps.

--By all means, if you have access to a Tech 2, run a diagnostic and report back with any DTCs -especially in the trasmission area. If you have an open electrical signal line, it may help isolate it.

As for the top, that's not hard to raise manually. If you've never done it before, just follow the instructions in the owner's manal. You'll definately want it raised should you need a tow.

You don't have an aftemarket air filter (like a K&N) installed by any chance?

Since it's easy, check the transmission shift lock circuit Fuse 19 (10 amp) in the Body Control Module under the passenger side toeboard. (The owner's manual says it's BCM fuse 10, but the repair manual sticks with fuse 19.)


CC
 
#6 ·
Thanks Clarke I new I could always count on you to give me what I needed to know! Unfortunately the fuses were good and could not get my hands on the tech.But I did get the top up anyway, I'll have Cadillac pick it up on Monday.and I'll fill you in on what happens.thanks again dude:worship:
 
#7 ·
Sorry I'm late to the party, but the symptoms you describe sound just like what happened to me a little over a month ago. The shifter is connected to the transmission by a cable. Unfortunately that cable is both pushed and pulled through its housing. For some reason mine snapped while I was in drive. I felt the same looseness as you (luckily my top wasn't down). I was feeling adventuristic so I took the center console apart to find the problem and a possible solution. In my case, somehow the cable housing was no longer secured next to the exhaust tunnel near the console opening and a slight bend in the cable housing caused the 5 stranded wire to chafe. By the time I got in to see it, 3 of the wires were broken. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull on the cable and got it to neutral to restart it. Unfortunately, to get it into park required the cable be pushed toward the tranny through the housing which was no longer stationary.

My dealership couldn't find the cable anywhere in all of GM the first week. So we rigged a quick fix so I could take the car to Mid-Ohio for the Indy Car race. As is my luck, it completely broke half way through the weekend, but I was determined to persevere (especially with 6 other XLRs there with me). I realized that if I left it in neutral the ACC never shut off and the more times I used the pliers to shift into park the more damaged the wires became. I survived the weekend only to burn my hands on the exhaust tunnel after filling up halfway home.

The good news is the shift linkage cable PN 7139085 is only $78 if your dealership can find one. And the install costs are around $350 (the dealership told me they had to pull the exhaust off and install it from underneath. After it was repaired, they then told me I could have shifted the tranny from the rear under the car.
 
#9 ·
I found the cable for $47.10 ($82.65 List) fom GMpartsdirect.com.

Good stuff to know GizmoQ and I'm gla you chimed in. I know that the TAP (+/-) is totally electronic from the shift lever to the TCM and the shop manual goes into detail regarding changing the Shift Lock Cable, but can't find any details about how a transmission shift shift control linkage cable connects to the tranny. It mentions pulling the Intermediate Exhaust Pipe and Driveline Closeout Panel and just says, ""Disconnect the Shift Lock Control Cable. . . " How does the cable terminate on the transmission?
CC
 
#11 ·
It was.... the cable, and with the warranty it cost me $53.00 I picked it up with my friends flatbed myself so towing was damage free. I'm just glad it happened right in the driveway and not in Florida or Ohio or some were else. thanks guys for all your input was great.Now I'm on the road again.I love this car!!!!:bighead:
 
#13 ·
 
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