I have a 05 and have had a few issues with the lid not working properly. They seem to have those issues solved but now this. This is a new issue but I think its some how related. Sometimes the trunk does not close when I use the button on the lid. When I first hit the button I here a noise but nothing happens. I can use the lid button and cycle the lid and the system will work properly for a while. Any ideas.
Your post is far too difficult to understand to even provide a guessimate. Start at the beginning. Describe the previous issues. You say "they" seem to have solved those issues. Who are "they" and what issues did they "seem" to solve. They either did, or they didn't. Kind of like, "sort of preganant." Be as descriptive a possible. What kind of noise are you hearing when you press the rear decklid switch? The pump spooling up? Which switch makes it work --the top control switch on the center console? Have you tried the other controls that operate te rear decklid --like the switch below the steering wheel or the fobs? What do you mean it will work for awhile? A couple of cycles? A week? A month? Troubleshooting a top/decklid issue is difficult enough remotely so you must to be as descriptive as possible to even get a shot at a reasonable diagnosis. Please don't get me wrong, I'm trying to understand the problem, but your post provides more questions than it asks. If only the rear decklid switch works intermittently, you may have a bad switch.
---Barring that, you can visit the dealer and have them hook it up to a Tech 2 scan tool which will provide a status of all switches in the circuit.
Ok I will try to be more descriptive. I Have owned the car for about a year. It has 20,000 miles on it. I have had the car into my local Cadillac dealer three times with these issues. This dealer claims to have trained XLR techs. The first issue I had was the trunk would not go up without my helping it. The dealer replaced the pump assembly at that time. The second time the roof went part way up and stopped. I was able to retract the roof and it then worked properly. I took it in and they said they were unable to duplicate the issue. The third time I had it in the trunk would not open. They flashed the unit. It worked for about a month. I then parked the car for winter. I started driving it again this year and it has worked for about three weeks until this has cropped up. When I say they seemed to have fixed the issue I am referring to the issue with the trunk not having enough power to lift the trunk.
Ok so this is now. I have no issue with it opening; it will open with the interior switch and the Fob. The problem comes to light when I try to close the trunk with the button inside the trunk lid. The first time I try to close it the noise sounds to me like the pump is spooling up I do this a couple of times and I hear the noise, then after a few times I can no longer get any response by hitting the button. I have then closed the lid by hand and it closes and locks up. Then I can open it again but it will not close. I can however go in the car and using the power roof switch lift the roof until the top starts to come over then reverse the switch and close the lid and trunk. I can then open the trunk with the FOB and the in trunk switch now functions as advertised. This has happened twice in the past week. Right now it is working flawlessly.
I was wondering if possibly I am not cycling the roof completely closed. I have usually got my music turned up and can’t hear the ding. I am now shutting the radio off before I close the top up. Could this possibly be my issue? I don’t think it is the switch as it tries to move. To me it seems to be an issue with the sequencing logic. Once it reset it using the roof switch it will work again.
Thanks for the descriptive info. I frequent multiple XLR sites and this is the 6th post with the same symptoms in the past couple of weeks. The problem went away (just like yours) in the majority of the cases and the others haven't reported back. I experienced the same issue last summer. I removed and tested the rear decklid-mounted close switch, it tested good, re-installed it and the problem never came back. I found that by pressing and holding the (momentary actuated) switch a little longer than normal helped as well when it did hesitate.
If the rear decklid fails to open with all switches, the rear decklid sensor would be suspect. In this case, it's only one switch that is intermittently inoperative, so I would check it first. Of course, if it's working there isn't going to be much to check. Keep an eye on it and report back if it fails again. It seems like a lot of roof-related failures occur after long-term storage.
This may help: There is a newer (2-09) Technical Service Bulletin out regarding intermittent top operation. No codes will be displayed when a Tech 2 runs diagnostics. New folding top software must be installed by a dealer. When was the last time your software was updated?
TSB-08-67-008D: Diagnostic Information and New Software for Power Folding Top - Stops Mid-Cycle, Deck Lid (trunk) Inoperative, Intermittent "Top Not Secure Message" on DIC with No DTCs Set - (Feb 12, 2009) Replaces Bulletin 03-08-67-008c (section 8) This service bulletin covers all model years.
I have not checked this site for a while since I have not had any more issues. The last time I had my unit flashed was last summer.The only thing I changed is my batterys in my remotes. My wifes remote went dead the day after I was having issues so I change batterys in both units. May not have anything to do with the issue but I thought I would let you know everthing that was done. I will report back if the issue comes back. thx.
Thanks for reporting back; I'm glad to hear your trunk is operating normally. If one of the sensors in the top starts to get flaky, it can cause this issue. If the sensor reading is on the ragged edge of what the Folding Top Control module allows, you can experience intermittent failures of the rear decklid. If the problem comes back as a hard fault, you might want to have the dealer connect a Tech 2 and observe the sensor parameters.
I have had the car in and after 5 hours they found two poor grounding issues, one was caused from paint (may have been since day one) and one from a loose ground. They said the resistance on the limit was excessive because on this. It has worked for a week now so I am hoping this was my problem. Time will tell. I have another related issue. When I got the car back I put the top down all was good. As I was driving I noticed looking in my side view mirror that the front driverside of the trunk lid was up about a 1/4". I got out and opened and closed the trunk and noticed that it would go down properly but a soon asit is fully closed the pump stops and it pops up a 1/4". I did not have time to take it back again so as closed the roof I noticed the windows would not express up. I Initialized the windows and then the windows worked and when I opened the roof the trunk no longer sticks up. Question one are these issues related? I do know that all of the limits are reset when the windows are initialized but does this need to done before the roof is opened? I also noticed a little paint chip in the roof where I believe a bracket from the lid was making contact. Great! Question 3 is the roof held in place by the trunk? I can see where the top is pressing in the rat fur and I am getting some wear marks in the top paint. thanks in advance.
Top nicks are a known issue as there is minimal clearance between the inside of the rear decklid and folding top when stowed. There is a nut with threaded stud protruding 1/8-1/4" on each side of the rear decklid brackets. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to cut them flush with the retaining nut and applied a drop of Plastisol to each. Cheap, effective, done.
The top will not operate correctly unless the windows have been indexed, so you did a great job of fixing it yourself. Window indexing is the first thing the FTC module looks for when the top is moved.
I had the same roof nick problem and found two things wrong. The main problem was the two rubber bumper stops at the inside rear corners of the trunk were screwed in all of the way, not holding the trunk up high enough. I had to adjust them out about 1/2" to hold up the trunk high enough to miss the bracket. Next I ground down the sharp edges of the brackets that were cutting the roof and repainted them. The top is not loose when it is down, it is locked in position.
Thanks for the input but what about the clearance between the roof and the trunk. Should the trunk lid be touching the roof top when in the trunk. I can see where the rat fur on the trunk is flat and some wear on the paint. I can see two adjustments that would put the top lower in the trunk but I am not sure if this is correct.
You were correct on the cause of the hole in the paint. It was the angle bracket not the threaded bolts though. I ground it down a little and filled the hole with touch up paint. The thing I am unclear about is if the roof top should touch the rat fur on the lid normally. I have some wear marks developing from the contact mostly I suspect from having a little dust on the roof when stowing it. The hole in the paint it self was caused when the roof was not set up properly.
The clearance between the rat fur and top of the roof is very close. The rat fur should not be abrading the paint on the top of the roof. I don't understand how dust would cause any paint issues. Volcanic pumice maybe, but not dust.
Well my lid is not close it is in pushing the fur flat. I did talk to the service writer about the issue and he talked to the service manager about it. He said that it should not be touching but for them to try and adjust the system may take up to 4 hours and it could cause other issues. I don't know how far i want to push this. I am a little pissed with their good enough answers but the truth is I would sooner drive it than argue with them all summer.
My entire roof assembly had to be removed due to a bunch of scratches in the paint I discovered after a service visit. The dealer removed and repainted the roof without any problems. I was nervous at first, wondering if they wouldn't cause more problems than they fixed, but it worked out fine.
Four hours of labor is a small price to pay to get your roof adjusted properly. It sounds like your roof panels aren't stowing "flat" enough, so it may be a relatively simple fix once they figure out where the stackup issue is. There are shims on the contact points between the roof assembly and vehicle that can be adjusted. The section of the shop manual dealing with the roof is hundreds of pages long, so there's a lot of good technical info for the dealer to use. If the paint is being abraded, you're going to have to get it fixed anyway, so the sooner it's done, the cheaper it will ultimately cost.