How To Clean The EGR Valve - Page 3

**Ranger** · #31 (**permalink**) 05-06-06, 11:51 PM

P0171 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 1
P0174 - Fuel Trim System Lean Bank 2

Vacuum leak maybe.

Yes, press the spring loaded valve all the way in. It should move freely and not stick anywhere along its travel. Clean the shaft as well as the opening, but don't allow carb cleaner to run into the "can" as it can destroy the insulating varnish on the windings.

94CaddyConcours · #32 (**permalink**) 05-21-06, 08:42 PM

Ok let me clarify or can you elaborate a little more. You want us to protect the canister by putting rag over it or by not spraying too much carb cleaner in the valve?

**Ranger** · #33 (**permalink**) 05-22-06, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94CaddyConcours

Ok let me clarify or can you elaborate a little more. You want us to protect the canister by putting rag over it or by not spraying too much carb cleaner in the valve?

When cleaning the EGR, hold it in the upright position as it is when mounted. Holding it inverted allows solvent to run down the shaft and into the "can". That is what you want to avoid.

sonjaab · #34 (**permalink**) 06-19-06, 12:42 PM

GUYS........Once you have cleaned the carbon chunks out of
that EGR valve install one of these GM linear clean screen
gaskets with a screen to keep the carbon build up out of the EGR
Best $7 bucks I have spent!

I have used them in my older GM vehicles..................

http://www.tomco-inc.com

**Ranger** · #35 (**permalink**) 06-19-06, 09:12 PM

I would not put that thing on my car on a bet. I can see the screen getting clogged and causing all sorts of drivability problems. The EGR passage is large enough so that it should never get plugged or need cleaning. That screen is not. That thing is a problem waiting to happen.

sonjaab · #36 (**permalink**) 06-25-06, 04:33 AM

RANGER..........from all the posts I see here with clogged EGR valves
that gasket may well be a cure................

I used it successfully on my girls 4.3 Blazer which had many clogged
EGR issues because of the factory programming which didn't fully
open the EGR all the way thus causing carbon buildup and driveability
issues...............

My local indy repair shop now uses these screen/gaskets in several
different applications for older GM/Ford vehicles to cure carbon
clogged EGR issues..................

A good fix for $7 bucks IMO and experience and have NEVER had another
clogged EGR in her vehicle in the last 2 years!
Me thinks she need to BEAT on that vehicle a little to "clean" it out!
LOL!!!!!!!!!............geo

jackswe · #37 (**permalink**) 01-30-07, 03:37 AM

I cleaned my EGR valve thanks to the pictures in this post.
I had failed HC on the yearly inspection so I tried to clean everything in the enginecompartment. Did this, TB and plugs. No I'm back on the road again.
Thanks

dunkman · #38 (**permalink**) 02-15-07, 01:01 PM

Hey Krashed989,

Thanks for the excellent post on how to clean the EGR Valve. I am a new caddy owner ('95 Seville SLS) and just pulled a few codes which brought me to this forum. (PO36 - PO39 - PO94)

THANKS!

edited: dont post questions in tech tips, please see sticky - urbanski

sonjaab · #39 (**permalink**) 02-15-07, 09:29 PM

Guys.......If your tired of cleaning the carbon chunks out of your
EGR valve as I was from Grannys carboned up ride.
Check out this replacement EGR valve gasket that has a screen
moulded into it. Cost about $5 bucks.........geo

http://www.tomco-inc.com

mtflight · #40 (**permalink**) 02-16-07, 12:39 PM

I used electronic contact cleaner spray, instead of carb cleaner. It's a solvent that does not damage sensitive electronic parts.
That way if it does happen to get in the can, it won't harm it.

Snyder81 · #41 (**permalink**) 09-02-08, 03:50 AM

I kept getting PC1406 in my 96 Concours so I cleaned out the EGR valve today and it fixed it. Thanks again for the tutorial (I also used it ~40,000 miles ago). On the 96 Deville with the stainless steel fuel rail, I had to remove the manifold cover, unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail down, pop out the fuel rail/injectors. After the fuel rail moves freely, then you can flex it enough to get access to one of the EGR bolts. I cleaned the EGR valve out with carb cleaner but the pintle was still sticking REALLY BAD. I then went to a wire brush...still sticking. I had my neighbor take a look and he used his flashlight to look inside. Around the rrim where the pintle valve sits closed (flush with the surface that touches the gasket) I had nasty carbon build-up. I had to use a flathead screwdriver to scrape out the carbon. After that, the pintle moved freely and my code is gone. Thanks again!

kennydoesit · #42 (**permalink**) 10-10-08, 11:17 AM

Sounds dangerous; fuel lines next to a HOT EGR valve; catastrophically dangerous.

submariner409 · #43 (**permalink**) 10-10-08, 07:03 PM

You better start working on cars and trucks to get an idea of just where fuel lines really run. The proximity to the top (not the exhaust side) of an EGR valve is the least of your worries !!

**Ranger** · #44 (**permalink**) 10-10-08, 10:55 PM

Not to mention that it has a heat shield on the fuel line side.

Shouse · #45 (**permalink**) 03-16-09, 09:29 PM

Does anyone have an issue re-using the gasket.
I've cleaned mine twice now and both times I had to go buy a new gasket b/c there was an air leak.
I even had to have my mechanic help me the first time and he said never to re-use the gasket. Anyone else having a problem getting a good seal?
Is there some special trick to it...?