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258K views 152 replies 103 participants last post by  jimmyhearts 
#1 ·
#142 ·
I took the regulator out, seen my cable was rat nested and kinked, took off the motor, drilled out the rivets holding the cable guide spool together (use 5/16" x 1/2" long machine bolts to replace rivets, can access 3 out of 4 rivets drilled, but will be plenty to hold guide in place), bought new 1/16" cable and 1/16" cable stops (need 7' cable $0.26 per foot, stops $1.24 per bag at L_o_w_e_s). When taking apart, pay close attention to notice a short and long side of the cable beyond the middle cable stop that carries the window clamp and the cable covers are also different lengths, the short one going to the bottom side of the regulator, long to the top. As far as the window clamp (which had the busted white plastic lock down for the middle carry stop) if you look close you'll see two metal tabs looking up at you where the plastic broke (might have to break away a little more plastic to reveal), I just folded them over onto the new cable to lock the middle stop in place and works better than ever, total fix for all 4 windows $12, just took more time with panels than fixing regulator.

The whole regulator comes apart pretty self explanatory, I mean if its broke to begin with, and plan to buy a new one anyway, what is there to lose in breaking it down. The hardest part I had was adjusting the cable for its proper length between the stops. I found putting the window clamp all the way down, and winding the cable up 4 wraps on the blue spool, saving 1 wrap for the opposite end of the cable gives you 6" per wrap and there's only 1' 4" of total (rear) window travel. Be sure to have the window clamp all the way down, and when wrapping the spool you'll have to set the lower cable cover so the spring that goes into the black cable guide is almost completely compressed, if not, it allows too much slack in the cable and will just backlash again or reverse onto the spool and more than likely kink again leaving you starting all over again. Good luck, hope this helps some for the do it your selfer like myself.
 
#144 ·
This thread has been a great resource. I did the cotter pin fix on my 2004 Deville and now the window is a little noisy when I roll it up and down which I guess is because of the cotter pins running along the track. Not sure if there's anyway to fix the noise BUT I can roll the window up and down. It's the passenger side anyway and I very rarely roll it down so it's all good. Beats buying a regulator. I can put that money into these door speakers. Might as well upgrade while I have the panel off!
 
#148 ·
Thank you to everyone for the advice. I just completed this repair today using the cotter pin method. All I would add is that between the cotter pin and the "knob" on the wire, I used some small split-lock washers I had lying around. They slipped over the cable and I gently squeezed them to be sure they don't slip off. I used about 6 of them. A second option would be to wind some thick copper wire around the cable. This way there is no slack.

Only problem I had was that I broke a few plastic fasteners that hold the interior door panel and soundproofing panel in place. Plastic should be outlawed in the manufacture of cars!
 
#151 ·
Hey I have a 04 deville and passenger window was working fine at times it will work and it will cut off right after also I would turn my key on and off and it would work again now it's completely lost power neither the door locks or window work but bottom light does work I know it's probably something electrical please help if you know what it can be I've checked fuses and removed panel to checked the cables and module but nothin it's working lost power completely all my other doors have power and work fine.
 
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