How did those hold up? I just bought an 03 Deville with this issue.
How did those hold up? I just bought an 03 Deville with this issue.
I am on my 12th regulator. All windows have been replaced at least twice, with some 3 times. I bought regulators only for about $40. I am getting to be an expert on taking them out - I can make the repair in about 30 minutes. This time, I think I will try the cotter-key method instead of buying another regulator (this last one worked for abnout 2-1/2 years before failing again).
Well just did the cotter pin fix and after some test runs before buttoning everything back up it worked about 5 times and something gave again. So gotta tear everything back apart and see what it was.
The cotter pin fix is great. I have done two on my 2004 Deville. No problems whatsoever. You probably know that you have to remove the lifter arm from the track to do this repair. The lifter arm runs on the track at three (plastic tab) points. My only caution here is that you remove the arm by applying gentle pry pressure on the small single tab while applying gentle pressure on the lifter arm to move it away from that side of he track. Once it clears its side of the track, you just gently fold the whole arm towards the other two plastic runners. You don't have to remove the arm at that point since you just need enough space to put the cotter pins in place,, but you can if you wish. The most critical part of the whole job has nothing to do with the regulator. You MUST be very careful to remove the door trim panel by placing the trim removal tool EXACTLY at each trim attachment point as shown in the service manual. If you don't, I GUARANTEE you will break your trim panel anchor points! BTW, I have been running my cotter pin repaired regulators for two and three years respectively.
I supplemented the cotter pin fix by making bushings to keep the pins and the cable from rubbing together. I picked up some 5/16 nylon fasteners from Lowe's, cut a slit down one side so that I could slide it over the cable, used the heads of the cotter pins to clamp the fasteners together again, and then proceeded to do the rest of the repair per instructions.
I just wanted to share this solution to the potential problem of the pins wearing through the cable.
Best idea since sliced bread. Thanks for the great tip. Have now done two windows and both work great!!!!
I've replaced two regulators on 01 and 02 Devilles in the past year. I will be fixing the old regulators as back-ups using the cotter pin fix. I assume that I need to take the window lift bar of the regulator assemply off the support beam. Is there a trick to doing this without breaking anything?
Please read this to help before doing this for the first time - the best - notes/tips I received from this forum so far include:
1) The PDF file with pictures on how to do the fixes posted by lowscola on 4/6/06:
http://www.maddoxcomputersystems.com...dow_repair.pdf - most important thought from this is that after you separate (I used a pry bar) the outer panel edge push clips from the door frame - you simply slide the door panel UP - (do not force the panel outward!) I did this on the first door and destroyed a bunch of panel clps and other important hardware - the next car owner will get a surprise if they ever open that up again!.
2) One poster had a great tip for replacing the door panel - regarding the two metal clips that are on the door panel that slip out of the white plastic retainers: before replacing the panel, remove these from the door panel and slide them into the white plastic retainers. When you replace the panel, they will snap into the inner door panel. This way you don't need to blindly slide them into the clips. (I'm sure that's how they do it at the factory!):yup:
3) I was unfamiliar with the white push pins that hold the black inner panel to the door - On the first door I fixed I tried prying them out and broke every one :annoyed::banghead:- DON't DO THIS! These are ingenious clips that only require you to push in the center of the clip to release them from the door. To replace them, simply puch the centers back out until the are sticking out the top. Once inserted, press the centers untill they are flush again. (Everyone that has seen these clips before will probably laugh at my earlier ignorance but until you have experienced them and understand how they work it was not intuitive. I did not realize there was a separate center to the clip - bad over-40 eyes!)
4) Other notes: a) You do not need to disconnect the wiring harness from the door panel, but you will need to separate the wire from the inner black panel for room to work. b) when replacing the window regulator into the door, you need to keep it close to the inner door frame or it will appear that it does not fit. These thoughts may or may not be intuitive to you and I add these because they were not to me.
I'm posting this because I am appreciative of all those posters that paid it forward for my benefit!
Btw - 1st window fixed (rear driver): 2.5 hours and a lot of clips and harware broken. 2nd window fixed (front passenger): 1 hour - one clip broken and one alignment pin broken. - really easy comparatively. Bought both replacements (including motor) at a local salvage yard - $100+tax each. Tools needed (not sure of sizes) for remove/replacement: small flathead screwdriver (for plastic door lock), Phillips screwdriver, Torx Driver, Pry bar and Socket set.
was driving home today. while rolling driver door up, heard some grinding and a pop. im assuming its the plastic part breaking. gonna try the cotter pin trick. WHERE on the door panel would i put a screw driver or other device to remove the door panel without breaking the clips??? thanx.
There is another thread (in Tech Tips) that explains the panel removal.
Thanks so much lowscola for the "how to". I ordered my motor/regulator from Window Motor World for $135.00 shipping included to Canada. The job took just over an hour and my 2001 DTS was back in business without breaking anything. You deserve a big "Atta Boy". Thanks again.
Well, about about 3 hours of trying to get ONE stripped nut that mounts the regulator to the door frame loose, i was too frustrated to try the cotter pin trick and just went ahead and purchased a regulator for 90 dollars at o reilly's...... Door went back together in 15 minutes after all that turmoil.......:helpless:
one more thing, even though i went ahead and bought the regulator, i still SAVED money by learning how to remove that panel myself. ive got two more windows that are broke, so, at the worst, i can buy the parts and still come out ahead...........:yup:
Great info, my RR regulator went four months ago.. replaced with a new one and did not do the cotter pin trick..:( This time I'm doing the cotter pin trick on my LR regulator that just did the pop and drop as well..