Thank you, o insightful one. However, as I mentioned, (a) I'm a newbie - I haven't done this before, and therefore (b) I wasn't sure what it meant by instructing me to remove the latch. I.e., what is the latch and how do you remove it?Quote:
i would say the easiest way to avoid breaking that piece would be to follow step #1 of the PDF that says to remove the latch.... lol
The junkyard recommendation is also insightful, however what would be far more so would be a part number, for example. That seems like a fairly inexpensive part that wouldn't break the bank to buy from the dealer if there's no other option...
in the future, if you have a question about what something is on a write up, you should post a question. with the technology nowadays, most of us get email notifications right on our phones
you are talking about the nice plastic thing that shows you that the door is locked or unlocked right?
A dealer parts dept. will have exploded drawings in their computer so you can point it out to the parts guy.
The cotter pins are brilliant! Thank you ELI ICE. It works so well and is so simple that I am going to retrofit the three "working" regulators so I never have to worry about this part failing again. Good job!
Well I replaced the RR regulator about a year ago and worked fine. Yesterday the same one failed again. Went to ace and bought two cotter pins and put them in and bingo it worked. The only thing I noticed is there is a little play in the window but other than that works good.
Question for the Thread? First step says to "remove latch". Can anyone tell me exactly how you do that? I notice that there's a little square tab on the latch. Do I just pry this open? Then what?
Hey, I just had two windows on my passenger side break within a week of each other. I would like to learn how to use the sheet metal to fix the window. I can't afford the real thing right now and have both windows up with a couple of pieces of tape each. Please send info on what and how to fix with the sheet metal. Thanks.
I just repaired my '04 DHS right rear window regulator with one cotter pin. It worked just great. There is no slack, the piece swaged on the cable is tight between the
"down" stop and the cotter pin I just put in for the "lift" stop. By the way, I noticed as I was inspecting to determine what broke, I see that the "down" stop was plastic formed over metal, the part that broke was just plastic. Makes me wonder, in thinking back, if the plastic part that broke is in the regulator 180 degrees off. Hint-
to align holes in the regulator with the place on the cable to insert the cotter pin, I removed the motor and opened a pliers to span the regulator drive gear and was able to rotate the drive gear clockwise or counter clockwise to allow me to insert the cotter pin in just the right place. This is the simplest and easiest repair, and no reason that it won't last, it is a "life time" repair....
Thanks lowscola for the guide! Just fixed mine today. Didn't spend $180 though and only spent an hour doing it. The motor usually isn't the thing that fails. I purchased the regulator from ebay for $38 and just attached the motor onto it. I can't believe that the dealership charges $400+!!! That's ridiculous! Again...THANKS
I'm hoping to try to cotter pin trick tonight...My back passenger window fell into the door frame on the way to work today - on the Interstate , and of course on the coldest day of the week so far :(
I will let you know how it goes.
Hi. My brother is going to help me attempt the cotter pin fix tonight on my rear passenger window. He was wondering if anyone knew what size cotter pins to use?
Hey guys and gals. I'm new to the forum, and am the proud new owner of my first Cadillac. It's a 99 Deville, and even after only a weeks time I can say it is an incredible automobile.
I just recently experience a problem with the window, and after searching quite a bit on the subject this was the best place I saw fit to inquire of my issue.
The window was working fine for the last week, until last night when I rolled the window up, and when it came to the top It made a clicking sound like it was still trying to go up, but was not able to. I then rolled the window down (Dumb) to see if it was a one time thing, and when I tried to roll it up it wouldn't do anything. It does nothing. It makes no sound whatsoever. All of the other windows are fine and work as they are supposed to.
It seems as though the windows seem to be problematic, and I was hoping someone has had a similar issue, and is willing to offer their experience.
I followed the link to the "HOW TO" pdf file and found it quite useful in assisting me with the repair of the right front and left rear windows on my 2000 Cadillac DHS.
For the RF window, I used a short piece of "plumbers tape", which is metal, comes in a roll and is easily pliable for the task at hand. I secured the node on the mechanism cable as close to the original location as possible and used 3 pop rivets in close proximity to one another and the window regulator works as it should.
For the LR window, I wasn't as fortunate as the motor had kept operating long enough to mess up the cable mechanism portion and I was forced to order a new regulator. From this link, < http: //www .car-stuff. com/store/?N=9836+4294963365+1586+11921+9331 > , I ordered a regulator without the motor - cost with shipping charges was less than $40.00. The item was ordered on a Wednesday and I had it delivered via FEDEX Ground by the following Monday. I was very pleased with the fast service/delivery. :D:yup:
((I've added 3 spaces in the above link so that it would pass through))