Ok well the next question is does the ring cleaning procedure work or is it more likely that the rings are shot? I only paid 1500 for the car and its in pretty good shape but if it comes to doing anything involving stripping the engine down i'm not gonna bother with it. The HG's are intact and it runs like a champ.
The EGR problem comes from the sheer amount of exhaust gas passed through the system - and, as 2001 posted, if your car burns (uses) more that 1 quart of oil every 2,000 miles, then the problem is compounded.
Find a 20 oz. jug of Chevron TECHRON, dump it in the tank, and fill with Texaco, Chevron, or Caltech 91/93 gas and go for a 200 mile road trip - use the trip an an excuse for a long lunch. During this trip run the snot out of the car - WOT's and long steady accelerations and slowdowns. Heat it up and work it out: city driving is death for a Northstar. Run it.
Read the entire Cadillac Technical Archive up ^^^ in the black bar. Read it.....
Thanks! Found that very useful! Now to put it all back together :S Hate waiting on parts!!
I am back home in Canada for a little while and we don't have Techron here...you recommend any alternatives? We pretty much have everything else...Thanks for your time
I had a problem with the engine stalling on me and after I took it to a Certified dealer on 4 different occasions they fixed it because I told them what was wrong. They kept telling me it was an air leak and old error codes but the problem kept recurring, I finally hoped online and read this forum. I told them to clean the throttle body and they opened it up and found that the spring was worn out. They replaced it and it runs great now!!!
Just to confirm.
I want to take mine off to clean behind the plate. (07 CTS)
The four bolt pattern is the only thing holding it on? Once those bolts are loosened and removed it should slide off
I wanted to make sure that if I took the four bolts off I didnt get myself into something I couldnt get myself out of.
Could this be the reason im getting a P0507 Error Code? Its idling high....although you would never notice!(Service Engine light is on)
2004 Deville DTS
at first it was not able to keep idling when cold and everything else started from here.
I research this forum and many others, and got back to the cleaning procedure for the throtle body. It was well overdue at 140.000 miles I couldn't see the aluminum, it was that black. I opted to take it apart and clean it in a small bucket were i could let it immersed in cleaner and soak the gunk. While I was there I read that the air intake manifold ( black nylon) can get dirty with al the whirling shapes from the galleries and tried to clean that too, but it was so cold outside that I was happy with just a summary cleaning. I believe that all the gunk deposited there is coming from the rear crankcase cover and the lack of a pcv valve. I found out later that the pcv valve is replaced by a fixed orifice diaphragm about a 1/8 of an inch or so and all the gases are directed into the intake trough the left of the air manifold just to be re-burned for emission purposes.
So for that I come up with the idea ( skeptical at the beginning) that an oil catch can made out of a Kobalt oil/air filter that I modified for this purpose might help to keep this engine a little cleaner. I must recon that I managed after installing it to collect about 30 ml of oil and a little bit ( like 10%) of water for every 2-300 miles . The filter had to be modified in order to not actually obstruct the vacuum flow but just create that separation of oily mist trough condensation.
The car still had trouble starting cold and I removed that contraption and look for further issues.
the only codes that came out from time to time were related to tps 0121 and idle out of range 0507.
I took the IAC out and realizing that had a crack in the white plastic guide I attempted to fix it with JB weld and some heat shrink tube to reinforce it. It worked for a while about 1000 miles. but the engine was out of control and kept revving high at 2000 rpm sometimes 3000 rpm and overheating so I developed a badly need for a new water pump and an urgent coolant flush!
On a rainy day ( pouring) the $40 flow tech water pump was installed and just water added to the system for cleaning.
With the help from this forum I followed all the detailed info and benefit from the members knowledge to buy ahead that water pump removal tool $35 at Autozone. After 50 miles that day I flushed that once again and refill with the red Prestone coolant that I mixed myself 60/40.
Meanwhile the dealer told me about $400 for the IAC valve, AdvanceAutoparts $290, AutoZone $260, Napa $340 and so on.
after a little research I found out that are about 3 manufacturers for this valve and one is more expensive that the other.
So blessed by the access to the internet I found out at Amazon ( yes, indeed) the IAC valve for $185! the store is ShopACdelco and the brand is ACdelco.
Got the part in 2 days, installed and the car now is working PERFECT! and by the way I put back the Oil Catch Can, and it works just great.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the comments and the opinions expressed in this forum that helped me grasp the concept of functionality in the northstar engine.
By the way, a slight gain in milage (1.5 extra per gallon) is not to be ignored in suburban conditions with few traffic lights.
I'll check it on highway on my next trip.
1993 to 1995 do not have a MAF
1993 to 1999 does not have a MAF
Wow - Thanks much for the pics, discussion, and direction. My 2000 Seville throttle stuck when cold with the dreaded "rush" after the initial hard push on the pedal. Followed the procedure here and now everything is great! BTW - I had about 1/8 inch thick deposit and was tempted to use metal to scrape - thanks to Ranger for stopping me with the comment! Great forum.
Nice procedure! My gas pedal is sticking too and now I know how to clean it. Thanks Dave!