I recently purchased a 95 sts with 85,000 miles on it. Shortly after I got it, I noticed a wierd problem under light acceleration(around 1700 to 2300 rpms from a standstill). The acceleration is not steady. You can feel it and also watch the needle jump up and down slightly on the tach. What could be causing this and what should I do. I bought a warranty that covers drivetrain and engine stuff for 3 months or 3,000 miles and I am hoping to fix this under the warranty. Admittedly it is not that big of a deal, but it is annoying and I am wondering if performance could be better.
I just followed the instructions and cleaned out the EGR-valve. Replaced air filter as well. The car runs perfect without the jerky rpm at low speed. But here's a problem: the cruise control as well as the left power window on the backdoor stopped working.
Does anyone know why? I know this is a pretty common problem but I really don't want my top condition Cadillac suffer from this :crying:
Great thread! I just cleaned my EGR and it did the trick. Biggest problem I had was that the last person to replace/clean the valve didn't put the brace for the fuel rail back on correctly, so it (the brace) was over the nut. I had to pry the fuel rail over with a screwdriver with one hand and remove the bolt with the other. That was sorta scary because I didn't want to kink up the fuel rail, but it was fine. I figured the guy who did the last job couldn't find the hole. I never have that problem.
Great tips here.
But I wonder about the pintle. My Chilton repair book says the pintel should be cleaned. They have a picture on page 4-7 that shows the assembly of the EGR valve. It looks like the hole you are not spraying solvent in has a screw that allows to take the EGR valve apart.
Is it possible to get it back in correct function if I take it apart? I'm especially worried about the spring tension.
Electric cleaner should not dissolve the insulation, but clean out the dirt. Do you think that would lessen the risk of ruining the mechanism if it came into the hole beneath the valve?
I spray it in the opening under the "can" where you can see the pintle valve and use a dental pick to scrape the carbon loose. Tedious and time consuming, but with the right tool you can do a good job.
I tried to get the EGR out on my 95 STS and the steel fuel line is in the way and won't budge! What do I have to do to get the fuel rail out of the way. Looks like the factory upgrade was done.
For a while now my car has been hesitating, just not accelerating smoothly and running rough in the 55-65 mph range. Cleaned out the EGR and she runs much better. One of the easiest fixes I've ever done on this car. The images sure helped.
Such great info here. I've done the RPM/ Coolant Temp/Volts mod on my 94 Concours as well as cleaning the Throttle Body. Today we were out running errands and the car started running very rough. The cat was also getting hot. Stopped by the parts store and picked up an EGR Valve gasket and a can of Brake Cleaner. Pulled off the EGR, cleaned it and re-installed. Car is running smoother and has better throttle response than it ever had.
A big "Thanks" to this forum and the people that contribute to it.
A new EGR was $177-275 depending on the manufacturer. $7.49 for a can of cleaner and gasket worked out much better for my budget this week.
Pictures are great but is the cleaner being sprayed into the openings???? just want to be sure . dont want to do anything stupid that 'll lead
more $$$$.
EDIT:Referenced original Post 66 deleted. See new post 68.
Post #66 is incorrect information. That valve is not the EGR - it is A.I.R. check valve #1, part of the blower/piping/valve system that supplies fresh air to the exhaust manifolds for a period of time at startup in order to quickly light off the catalytic converter. (A.I.R. valve #2 is next to the lower radiator hose and the blower is inside the LF fenderwell plastic liner, in front of the drive axle on the frame mounting.)
In the Engine in #66 the EGR is electrical and is located on the right (rear) side of the water crossover casting.
See Post #3 and ............
Here's the 2000 - 2005 EGR location. #6. You remove it and clean the pintle and gas port.
Well, I have a 1988 Fiero with a 1995 Northstar engine with 17k miles on it when dropped in, sat in storage the past few years, no past info on did the swap. I read this thread and hopefully cleaning the EGR takes care of hard starting/running until warm . Since the engine bay is small, its a PITA to get around the fuel rails.
Finally got the EGR valve off. Had to use 10mm crows foot to remove bolt under fuel rail tab, then pry up tab to get out of the way to remove valve. When I reinstalled it, I bent the rail tab up from the down position so I could bolt tab directly to top of EGR valve. Took some prying and had to elongate one hole on valve to get the bolt in, but if it has to come out again it will be much easier.
Valve was not stuck so it didn't solve my cold start problem.
Dr Xtreme
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