Cadillac Tech Tips - How to fix it Discussion, EBCM Replacement in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; I've searched the forum (and asked dealers and mechanics) for help with this and they say it should come off ...
I've searched the forum (and asked dealers and mechanics) for help with this and they say it should come off easily. Many discussions come close but I need to ask. '03 Deville DTS, wheel off, splash guard off, 2 contact plugs removed, 6 torx screws removed....now what procedure/tool can I use to separate the EBCM from the ABS pump so I can get it rebuilt. Saw that someone said just pry one corner, but with what tool and how. There is no room for more than a stub screw driver but I can't wedge it in anywhere. Do I need to pull the bumper splash apron to get an angle on this thing?
Can anyone help? Sheesh. It can't be this difficult, can it?
Thanks in advance.
Not sure if they are the same, I have a '98 Deville, but I just separated mine with no problems. Mine had 4 screws one on each corner then one in the lower center portion that is part of the mounting bracket with a rubber grommet on it. I had to loosen the unit in the bracket, lift up, pull off rubber grommet then remove bolt. I tapped lightly with hammer and it separated.
Re: EBCM won't separate from pump - Finally an answer and success!
At long last I can finalize this thread. I was finally successful in removing the EBCM from the pump today (not like I have been trying non-stop 24/7, but this is the third extended try). I did it by using a small pocket knife in the top left corner and wedging it between the two pieces and then, while there was a crack there, inserting a stub screwdriver in the opening thus giving me a little leverage. It did not "pop" off but required more pulling and wedging, but finally came out. Hallelujah! Now I can send it in to get repaired.
I hope this might help a couple of others that have had the same problem.
An additional note. I sent the EBCM to speedometerrepairguy.com and had him rebuild it. Found him through this forum on eBay and he repaired it and sent it back super fast for $50 (including return shipping). Put it in and the codes disappeared and all seems well so far (couple hundred miles).
Have heard good about this guy from people who have sent in digital speedometers for repair as well.
I am posting this in hopes it will help someone who hasn't done it before. I know it would have helped me (along with all the other great help I got from this forum )
A flexible extension for your small socket wrench is helpful. Also, you'll need a Torx bit for the screws. Be careful removing and replacing the screws as they are a bit "tender" if corroded. See my other threads in this forum on this subject if you have trouble removing the unit (like I did).
Here's the ABS Pump #1 and the EBCM #2 diagram.
Here's the EBCM (from inside the wheel well - wheel and splashguard removed) with the large plug, retainer, swing down retainer removed. The larger circle is where the plastic retainer goes. The smaller circles are the 6 torx screws to remove the unit. Do not take out the 4 front screws.
The front pipe in this picture is for the air pump and was removed from the hole (arrow) and pulled aside for easier access to the EBCM. The larger circle (top) is the plastic position retainer for the large plug (see picture #2.) It pulls out to the left and is on a plastic string connected to the plug.
The backside of the EBCM showing the coils, gasket and screw holes.
The swing down plug retainer. Swings down and clicks in place to make sure the plug stays put. You can remove this easily when you send it in to get repaired.
The bottom socket for the wire to the ABS pump.
I tried separating the EBCM for over an hour without success ... Today I'm going to pull the air pump for more room. U need a T-20 bit with a skinny extension, I used a 3" dewalt hex extension and removed the rotating sleeve. Then a long speed change Irwin hex extension. Upper left screw required just the modified extension and a Husky hex bit ratchet ($12) all from Home Depot.