Cadillac Tech Tips - How to fix it Discussion, TECHRON fuel additive in Item Specific Cadillac Discussion; Years ago, ATF (old transmission fluid designation) was used for everything from power steering to fuel additive. Not so much ...
Years ago, ATF (old transmission fluid designation) was used for everything from power steering to fuel additive. Not so much as a gas additive as a diesel fuel additive, especially when diesel fuels began to go "low sulphur".
Today, the practice is redundant. Modern gasolines, particularly the "top tier" offerings, have more than enough additives right out of the pump than is really necessary.
I used to run 8 oz. of ATF in my 1965 Chevelle 327/350 at each tankful: It was cheaper than Marvel Mystery Oil.
I wouldn't run a quart (32 oz.) of DEXRON-III in a tank - I'd prefer to run 8 oz. every tank, on a fill up from 1/4 tank.
As far as I know there are only three fuel additives that work. Techron cleans fuel and intake systems, TCP clears lead deposits from aircraft sparkplugs, and Prist reduces algae and fuel line freezeups. The rest either do nothing or more harm than good.
I do beg to differ. I have been fleet manager for a company that has ran Chev. Astro vans since the late 80's and every one I have gotten about 300K miles out of w/out rebuild. Techron is THE #1 fuel system cleaner-tuner(I even use it in my SeaRay3.0L(Merc. factory Specifically recommends!!)) do not forget the trusty quart of tranny fluid for a good engine flush.
You are SO Right about how many are garbage and a waste of $$ though.
For the past 20 years before going thru emissions here in AZ,I go to my friendly little hardware store and buy a pint of De-natured Alcohol,pour it into a full tank.My 83' Touring Coupe with 146,000 has yet to fail inspection.Hydrocarbons are practically zero.Only side affects is I smell like a "AA"fuel dragster for a couple of weeks.
If you go back in this thread and put the three gasoline additive ideas presented in order,
TECHRON is a CHEVRON-developed gasoline additive designed to clean and remove intake port, valve and piston crown deposits.
ATF or transmission hydraulic fluid is a top cylinder lubricant substitute. In an incomplete combustion situation it will actually increase deposits (Kind of like burning a quart of 10W oil with each 3 - 4 tanks of gas.).
Alcohol (Ethanol or Isopropyl, NOT Methanol, which is extremely solvent and attacks rubber and plastic) is a slight octane booster and has no combustion chamber cleaning properties in the percentages normally used in gasolines. Ethanols will loosen fuel tank and line deposits and carry them to the fuel pump and filter. Boaters are well aware of the nightmares caused by ethanol because boat gas tends to sit for months between uses.
So, without going crazy: TECHRON for the fuel tank, ATF for the oil pan (though it's generally considered redundant nowadays). Is there anything that I should be adding to the oil I use (Mobil1 - 5,000 mile type). I still change it based on the GM Oil Life Monitor. Actually, I change it when it hits 15% Life Remaining.
Is that technically enough, or is there anything someone can strongly recommend I do differently, i.e. additives and how often to use them?
I also use 93 octane gas from Hess or Mobil - the two most common stations in my area (for now). Anybody have any strong recommendations for an additive I should use, and how often?
Got my friend to get me some techron in the states.............store said that some Lucas additive was better. Called tune-up in a bottle or something, well I got 2 bottles of that(its smaller and cheaper) and one bottle of Techron. Anyone know anything about Lucas?
Lucas is a well-marketed aftermarket additive manufacturer.
Basically, the GM TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) recommend NO oil additives - If GM/Ford/Chrysler/Nissan/Toyota/ blah, blah, could make an engine last longer by using some aftermarket additive, would they tell you to add it or at least buy their additive?
Ford likes BP gasolines while GM has gone on record as recommending "top tier" (Google it) fuels. Why spend your $$$ for a SWAG - Scientific Wild Ass Guess ???
Today, it's very easy to do a gas fill-up and hit the pump for at least $37.50 in 93 octane. Why, in your right mind, would you dump another $6.95 in snake oil on top of perfectly good gasoline ???
Hands down the best and foremost power Fuel additive/cleaner is Berrymans B-12 Chemtool.
I have used this stuff in my old cars in the past, and it truly works!
I had a few shop teachers that always recommended B12 over any other off the shelf fuel additive product.
It's potent stuff and will knock you out if you smell it for too long, a great way to clean the intake system, is by sucking some B12 through your brake booster line, or PCV valve. This will eliminate carbon build up, and help make your engine run way smoother. Just adding it into the gas tank is simply not enough, people forget that the intake is also responsible for a good running engine, and can easily get full of carbon deposits/gunky build up.
Another great way to clean out your engine is too pour in some Tranny fluid before you do an oil change, this will really help clean and remove deposits and old oil that are sitting on top of the piston and cylinder walls because Trans fluid is basically detergent, and works much better than any so called "Engine Flush"
I would add about a quart or 2 depending on your oil level, and just drive your car for like a couple of days, then drain your oil. Running the engine at idle for 10 minutes is not enough for the trans fluid to work it's magic.
Never use the cheapo $2.00 bottles of STP, they don't work for jack. B12 is available at Wal-Mart for like $3.00, well at least it is here locally where I live.
If you run a Northstar, DO NOT, under any circumstances, fall back on the old transmission fluid wives tale. Diluting perfectly good engine oil with 10W hydraulic fluid is no longer recommended for any engine. Good ol' 10W- or 5W- (30) multigrade oil is detergent enough to keep the engine squeaky clean. If you have piston crown and combustion chamber deposits no oil on earth will clean them out. It takes either radical invasive chemical cleaning or the tried and true "decarbonising": Pull the cylinder heads and clean everything.
Before you dump snake oil into your engine, transmission, or fuel tank read the GM TSB's on additives and Google "chevron techron" and "top tier gasoline" to get a reference base.
For the oil change thingy, take the car for a 75 mile drive, lunch, and return. Put it up on jackstands and drain the oil while any contaminants are in solution. The run will also allow the PCV system to burn off any vaporized moisture and acids in the crankcase. For the Northstar crowd, change to a WIX filter: more filter area = less restriction. (Same for the air filter.) K&N is made by Champion Corp., a large aftermarket supplier. Google "knize mopar oil filter study". (It is NOT a Mopar site.)