Cadillac STS-V Series Forum Discussion, brakes in Cadillac V-Series Forums; My 2008 has just turned 40K miles--noticed a squeaking when i turn intomy garage--- im not a mechanical guy so ...
- 02-23-14 12:29 PM #1
My 2008 has just turned 40K miles--noticed a squeaking when i turn intomy garage--- im not a mechanical guy so woild need to have them looked at/fixed.Id 40k about right for brakes?Squeak is coming fromfront right---shoiuld i have all the break pads(im assuming here)done or just the front/ id like to get pads that dont generate as much brakedust--is there a brand/part i should use.As to where to get them done,im concrened about having either a shop or the dealer supply parts and labor since they might just get STS pads--i assumethe V pads are diffreent--shouild i just order the pads and have the shop just install them--thanks for help
- 02-23-14 04:12 PM #2
You can go ceramic pads but it will stop differently, not as quick because ceramics tend to glaze, for me, I go for the hardest there is, presently running EBC pads and I'm happy with them as well as their rotors, which are cross drilled and slotted to cool them off, no need to go all out unless you race at the track as I do, if she is your daily driver you can run the ceramics to eliminate the dust...
- 02-23-14 05:11 PM #3
thanks alot so couldthe dealer put sts brakes et al on by mistake, or would they not fit a V--I know irs a stupid question ,buy its somuch easier to just have the dealer do the brakes.Also,id put upwith the dust if the stock brakes stop quicker--I live in Atl and its not unusual to have to brake hard on the interstae roads here
- 02-23-14 06:01 PM #4
We have the 6 lug pattern. Sts has 5. The highest brake option on the sts gives them 6 lugs and our brakes. In other words it's impossible for them to put the wrong brakes on our car if you insist on letting them install brakes.
- 02-23-14 11:25 PM #5
There is a distinct difference in pads used on an ordinary floating caliper vs. a Brembo caliper. It is impossible to screw the two up. Wheel lug count has nothing to do with any differentiation in calipers, other than the fact that a non-V wheel won't clear the additional space a Brembo caliper needs because of the pistons on both sides (it needs all that extra offset our wheels provide. Somthing like 56mm or 57mm).
Brembo's are actually stupid easy to replace pads on. This is why they are so popular in racing as it's easy to swap braking compounds on the fly more or less. Tap out the bottom pin, remove the spring clip, then tap out the top pin. Or it could be vice versa, I forget. Then remove the pads. Those holes you see at the top of the pad (this edge faces forward), are the holes for the pin to go through. However rotor replacement is fairly the same level of work on either setup.
Brembo pad (not our exact pad, just a Brembo in general);
I have the Hawk HPS's in the image above, with Powerslot rotors. There is no right/wrong answer as to what is the best combo. That is dependant on your needs.
- 02-24-14 01:21 AM #6
You could change pads your self if you can change a flat tire. The hardness part is getting the wheel off. After that take a punch and hammer and tap out the pins at the top and pull out the pads. Put new pads in and tap pins back in and your done. More than likey you only need fronts. I would eather do the oem pads our the hawk hps. Both will still dust. But better than that dent from hitting the car that's in frount of you. I was just in atl this week could have changed then for you.
- 02-24-14 01:28 AM #7
- 02-24-14 01:41 AM #8Cadillac Owners Fanatic
- Automobile(s): 2006 STS-V, 95 Sierra Z71
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Velva, ND
I have EBC Red Stuff pads and EBC Black Dash rotors on my V. Very low dust, good street braking performance, outstanding on the track.
- 02-24-14 01:43 AM #9
I have the same on my Seville. Very happy with them.
- 02-24-14 10:06 AM #10
thanks so much--i have back issues,so i dont do flats either.do you guys think i woiuld need anything else,ie rotors,calipers.Mad were you here for the monster truck show??
- 02-24-14 12:51 PM #11
Whenever replacing pads, especially if they've been worn for 40k, I'd replace the rotors without fail.
Calipers don't need to be replaced. Only issue is if you have piston seals leaking. Then they can buy a rebuild kit to fix them. You don't want to know the price of one of our calipers...
Typical brake jobs consist of pad replacement, rotor replacement (or suitable turning of original rotor IF it is within turnable spec), re-greasing of slider pins (not applicable to our car as we don't have floating calipers), and any other cleanup, degreasing, etc, of the general area, and a good bleeding if necessary. On some GM vehicles (trucks with Kelsey Hayes ABS modulators for example), I'd always make sure to crack the bleeder screw before pushing the pistons back as if there is any sediment, in the fluid, I want it pushed OUT of the system, not back up into it. But that isn't a necessary step.