What seems to work best you? Drive, Sport, Manual, TC on or off? At what RPMs should the 1-2 occur? Or do you launch in 2nd? My shifts seem to always occur a couple hundred RPMs early, which I think results from poor launches. I've also had wheel hop occur frequently in this vehicle. My vehicle has also been tuned.
I'm assuming you mean stoplight to stoplight 0-60 stuff, I put it in Competition mode, move the shifter to sport and floor it, if your tires are cold you might experience some wheel hop or a little bit of a burnout. You can shift yourself but you have to be pretty precise or you'll either bang off the rev limiter or shift too early. That's the fastest (seat of the pants) way to launch as far as I'm concerned, unless you want to brake torque it, which I don't do.
Yea avoiding the rev limiter is a challenge, there has been several occasions when even the vehicle in auto has hit the rev limiter, usually after a drift or turn...and then full throttle. I have lightly brake torqued before, that all ways results in a good spin. .
When tuned the rpm limit should be raised a tad to not hit the limiter in D or S mode. Also, the trannie should have been tuned too (shift times/line pressures etc. Tuning adds a lot and this exacerbates wheel hop. Seems there is always a down side to most things. That said, I have never hit the limiter in D or S since the tune and prior it would always hit it in first gear.
I never hammer it from a stand still as it is just a matter of time until you tear out the C5 based IRS. Hammer it from about 30 to avoid most, not all, of the IRS potentials for "costly nasties".
good thread-- as i mentioned in another thread, the wheel hop thing should be resolvable---ALL new Shelbys have a major wheel hop issue--its fixed by changing out the UCA and LCA--Roush makes a kit--i did it on my 540hp 2010 and its gone--id think that thered be an aftermarket company that has them esp if the CTSV hasthe same issue--if you continually get wheel hop, its just a matter of time for seriuos repair work
sorry im not a gear head, but got to know this term from wheel hop isues on 2 cars i have, my Shelby and a 65GTO--- heres a link to what they are http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_arm basically they are what keeps the pressure on the wheel to keep it from hopping.It does make the ride a little firmer--ill bet a agood suspension shop could look at our Vs and suggest a fix.
BTW i dont do much launching ar red lights anymore,but what i always did with an A/T car is brake while the light is red,raise rpm a bit,maybe 2000rpm, and take off at parthrottle to avoid wheel spin--with our cars I think the shock value alone would give you a lead.Ray, havent seen you in a while try and make the UPS show coming up in Sept
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i run mine all the time on the street and dont have wheel hop AT ALL. none. and for launching ill do either competitive or normal mode and ease into it. with the power the car has you have to realize that if u floor it your losing speed due to spinning and wheel hop if ur getting. give it less gas and work to floor. easiest fix.
ive done it. maybe its bc i got tires that arent super sticky for that reason. lol.. ive had a few launches where it spun its ass off, but thats the worst of it, not a wheel hop yet. knock on wood and fingers crossed at the same time.
Was at my chassis shop to discuss having the trannie hump removed from the drag car and re-installed with zeus clips for easy removal for trannie or converter changes.
Low and behold there was a blown highly modified stang there getting new control arms that eliminate wheel hop. Essentially all the bushings are , well, gone, and replaced with solid members or bearings for a no flex situation. Seems Rousch makes these for Stangs.
If you want it for a STS I "may" be able to help as soon as I check some part numbers and check having my manufacturer in VA to see if they can make rock hard, non flexing units for stock STS-V control arms. The ride would suffer a tad on rough road but be near not noticable on good road and, wheel hop should be reduced by about 75% minimum. Problem is as follows - who would want them as making them involves about 11K in molds or machining individual bushings to fit.
Works on the blown stang and should work on the STS-V too.
Without knowing how many I may just get new bushings and have them machined from what my engineers tell me is the best polymer.