Check Engine Wait4Me tune - Page 4

wait4me · #46 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 06:43 PM

Who was the one that said this? As i just called and talked with people and no one knows what you are saying.

Jpjr · #47 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 06:48 PM

I own both the tuned ECM and the handheld. I'm currently running stock to see how this thread plays out but am fine with Jesse's products. The key to me is how Jesse responds and whether he changes something if it needs to be changed. Basically standing behind the product.

WillySTS · #48 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 06:51 PM

Boy, am I sorry to hear that!...I just put mine back in last week afetr I sent it back to Jesse about 2 months ago to fix the remote start issue(which he did fix,by the way). I'm driving the car around with power again, summer is just starting(here,anyway) and you lay this on us???Now I've got to keep my eye on my temp gauge, which normally and still runs 1 notch under the 1/2 mark at all times when warm, Aw, man...

wait4me · #49 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 06:51 PM

Well it just isnt that JPJR. Everyone is running the exact same program on these cars unless they have specific mods. So if one person has an issue EVERYONE would be overheating.. This is the first i have heard of this...

silverws6ta · #50 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wait4me

Well it just isnt that JPJR. Everyone is running the exact same program on these cars unless they have specific mods. So if one person has an issue EVERYONE would be overheating.. This is the first i have heard of this...

I was about to ask this same question -- I have encountered no issues and my car has triggered the 'jet takeoff' fans as everyone refers to them and kept the temp MUCH below the stock operating temp for me thus far. Thats here in SC with temps in the upper 90's --..

HOWEVER - If its not a table issue, my second guess (backing this up with my education) could be a bad/failed cell in the ECU; Although the ECU; should be able to catch the failure and trigger an SES; and go to failsafe/limp-home mode and bring the temp under control.

Bottom line being -- with so many of us running a W4M ECU, it sounds more like the ECU itself; rather than the tune.

inurok · #51 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 07:48 PM

wow this news right before i was about to post a thread asking would a mod chip get rid of the crappy response I have with the OEM setup. Like there's a pause after pressing the gas and actually going anywhere? Can anyone solve this problem?

wait4me · #52 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 07:50 PM

Exactly.

As soon as i get the name of the guy that was talked to at lingenfelter i will know and get this straitend out. I deal with them all weekly. As i should have heard about this.

Anyways, all those ecms are scrambled, / made to look EXACTLY like stock, and wont even open in any software so i am not sure How anyone would have seen any "wrong" tables.......

CIWS · #53 (**permalink**) 07-16-09, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wait4me

Who was the one that said this? As i just called and talked with people and no one knows what you are saying.

I'm sorry Jesse I don't know who it was there. The shop I took it to is a Ling shop who consults with them constantly. Another issue with me that probably isn't with most folks is seeing daily outside temps now of 105+ degrees running the AC in the car. We've been 100+ for 17 days in a row now.

However your ECM in and the car overheats, original ECM in and the car does not. I'm sorry man that's just plain troubleshooting, no magic involved. As I offered I can send it back to you to look at because it's no longer any good to me. No one looked in your ECM and saw wrong tables. It was simply swapped out. This was info passed on to this shop by the Ling folks from experience.

Jpjr · #54 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 12:09 PM

Is this as simple as the ECM not turning the fans on at the right temp? An overheating issue is generally a cooling issue and nothing to do with fuel tables, A/F, or anything else.

WillySTS · #55 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jpjr

Is this as simple as the ECM not turning the fans on at the right temp? An overheating issue is generally a cooling issue and nothing to do with fuel tables, A/F, or anything else.

From what I'm reading here, thats what it looks like. CIWS didn't seem to have a drivability issue, but what I would like to say is, when CIWS first reported this to us and provided the video, you can hear the fan hitting somthing as it was trying to turn...even though it was replaced and still didn't work...did it stop working from having been working all this time?

I know when my wife pulled up in the driveway from driving around on Saturday, the fans were the first things that I heard and as I said previouly, my car runs 1 notch below 1/2 on the temp,trans and oil temps are 180-190 range...so, I take bake my previous statement...I'm not worried(although I carry my stock ECU in the trunk,but hey...I carry 2 quarts of oil too...no big deal), I chaulk it up as another "typical electronic device failure" that can happen at anytime.

wait4me · #56 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 02:06 PM

Well a tune cant make a Fan motor come apart.. A car fan is just like a fan in your house. You can run them forever, but eventually they do fail.. As for if the ecm was working on that fan output as it obviously was before, and now isnt. It would be due to the failed fan causing a short and making the ecm fry that internal output. It wouldnt be my fault that your fan died, and took out things with it. Again, not something that is controllable on my end. I dont see how you or any other shop for that matter would bad mouth something when something like a bad fan comes apart... Then in your previous thread where you say the shop/a shop, says that my ecm caused it by modifying the wrong table, How would they know that if they cant even read the computer??? That just dont make sence. I have called EVERYONE at lingenfelter today, and im thinking that other shop is full of it.

I NEVER charge for retunes to anyone. If there is an issue with anything i always take care of it. Did you once call me to see what i can do before you just go on here and say these things??? I would have gladly even exchanged your ecm for you with a replacement, Even though that wouldnt have been my fault...

CIWS · #57 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 02:15 PM

The issue didn't become visible until we started seeing temps over roughly 103+ degrees. So how many folks here running the tunes are seeing temps in this range besides me ?

Even with the replaced fan the car overheated, so the failed part doesn't solve the mystery. It just so happen to be a convergence of timing with the temps in the afternoon reaching 103+ and the car started getting high temp readings. I began looking for a cause and see the fan hung up, it could have been that way for who knows how long. It gets taken in and the fan replaced, and yet the car still overheats, but only in the afternoons when the temps are that high. In the morning, even with a hung fan the car's temps stayed normal. I didn't run the A/C when it's 80-85 out, only in the afternoons coming home and it's passed the 100 mark. So this only became a known issue when it's over 100+ degrees and the A/C in the car is running adding to the heat load. Fortunately for most you'll probably never see it unless you're in areas that see the temps like I have.

My drive home is split between about 10 miles highway and 15 miles in the city. So within a range of 25 miles, temps 100+ and the A/C running the car would overheat even with a replaced fan. After the stock ECM was replaced to test it I drove the car over 60 miles with the A/C running and it was 100 degrees and the water temp needle stayed just below the half mark the entire time. The max oil temp was 212 and transmission was at 200, and that's after coming off the highway and driving around on the streets. That's a hell of a lot different than needle in the red on water, and oil showing 245 and Xmission at 230. Sometimes times it takes a convergence of circumstances to see issues, and that's simply what's happened here.

wait4me · #58 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 02:31 PM

In stock form, the fans on your car, even the low one, dont come on until 212F degrees. At that point, it is mile per hour based. After you hit a certain mph, they shut off completely. This is in stock form.

All i change is, i make the low speed turn on at 190.5 at 30 or so percent, then fully on at 195, then at that point the SECONDARY fan will kick on to help keep it even cooler. Both fans however still shut off at the stock mph. As at that point, air entering the radiator is more than the fans could ever supply.

You have a 180-190f thermostat stock, So, the thermostat is shut at this time, so all im doing is cooling the water in your radiator ALOT more than the factory one is, and cooling the supercharger heat exchanger alot more than the stock one. The thermostat is then in charge to cool the motor with its cooled water from the radiator..

As long as the fans are comming on in my computer, then there is something else wrong. The same fan system is in just about EVERY car/truck from 2006 up, and ANY vehicle using an e38 and e67 computer. If blowing up fans was an issue, i would see it in at least 4000 other tuned ecms we have done of that ecm type. We tune for people all over the world. Not just america. The people in dubai, or saudi, or other countrys where 130F are seen for long periods of time would see this issue way before you would...

Fan setting are exact and dont change. You can download the software for free at www.efilive.com and then i can post a stock tune if you would like to see what and how the settings work. They are the most simplest thing to change as they are just plain and straight to the point.

CIWS · #59 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wait4me

Well a tune cant make a Fan motor come apart.. A car fan is just like a fan in your house. You can run them forever, but eventually they do fail.. As for if the ecm was working on that fan output as it obviously was before, and now isnt. It would be due to the failed fan causing a short and making the ecm fry that internal output. It wouldnt be my fault that your fan died, and took out things with it.

The fan did not fry any outputs, it was still trying to turn just hung, once it was freed it would spin, although loose in the housing and rattling / grinding. The new fan would also turn with your ECM in the car, but when I got out and checked it after the car overheated again it was not turning despite the car being damned hot. I have video of this to prove it. However after I shut the car off and got out the new fan was going full speed, so again no sign of a fried ECM output and it settled my concern that the fan may have been installed wrong or was not working at all. Something else was not working as it should.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wait4me

I dont see how you or any other shop for that matter would bad mouth something when something like a bad fan comes apart... Then in your previous thread where you say the shop/a shop, says that my ecm caused it by modifying the wrong table, How would they know that if they cant even read the computer??? That just dont make sence. I have called EVERYONE at lingenfelter today, and im thinking that other shop is full of it.

The shop it was taken too did not bad mouth you at all. They simply relayed to me the experience Ling passed on to them of a similar situation they had seen on a Corvette. A fully functional cooling system and the car was overheating. They told them (as told to me) that there was some setting in the tune, they said the idle tables, that was the cause. In the case of the Corvette they flashed the tune out and went back to stock and it stopped overheating. In my case we swapped ECMs and the car stopped overheating.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wait4me

I NEVER charge for retunes to anyone. If there is an issue with anything i always take care of it. Did you once call me to see what i can do before you just go on here and say these things??? I would have gladly even exchanged your ecm for you with a replacement, Even though that wouldnt have been my fault...

The ECM is not bad, it works as described above. No I didn't call you, I do not have time to allow my daily driver to be the subject of experimentation when it relates to an issue that can damage the car. I need to car to work, not overheat. Besides the fact I have to arrange time with myself and a shop to do the swap and be ready to perform a crank relearn. This costs me money to be a test subject and might possible subject the car to damage. Unlike yourself I do not have access to a shop, lift, scan tool, test equipment, etc. Please try to think out of the daily box you live in and think about those of us out here who cannot simply do these things with their vehicles.

What concerns me is you do not even seem willing to entertain the idea there might be something foul in the tune somewhere that only seems to appear when it is very hot with outside temps and the car's A/C is running adding to the heat load.

wait4me · #60 (**permalink**) 07-17-09, 02:53 PM

A Relearn is needed only once per computer. After that is done, you no longer need to redo it on the computers. Even if you swap them. I can also transfer that data from one ecm to another so i can move it from a bad one and put it into a new one.

All idle tables and anything light throttle has not been modified. That bug they saw does not happen on this ecm type. e40 yes. Not e67. And if i recall that was on a huge 800hp + turbo car several years back right?

It is not that im willing to entertain an issue with this, It is just that if one person would have this issue 1000s would also. You arent the only one driving your stsv with the ac on, and the only one in very hot heat. There are several daily drivers in arizona and texas that have been 110s for every summer, since new and never an issue. We have been tuning these cars since they first came out. I was one of the first people to get mine...

Also this ecm is used in trucks, cars, even in my 2009 CTSV. which i also have the fan settings to be EXACTLY as they are on the stsv, with no issues on the settings.

If it was me, i would think it might be a faulty relay, or a bad / sticking thermostat, and it is just a random occuring thing that should happen again. We will see.