Hey All.
over the weekend I tackled my lower control arms and LH strut assembly.
here is a little write up
LH FRONT
Brake loose lugs. (3/4" socket)
jack car and support on stand.
remove lugs and tire
remove brake caliper (13mm socket)
remove rotor (can't remember torx bit size)
place jack under ball joint and start raising to remove tension on sway bar link.
disconnect sway bar link (18mm socket)
disconnect steering link (18mm socket)
disconnect upper ball joint (18mm socket)
lower jack while gently tapping steering knuckle near upper ball joint with a hammer, comes free pretty easy, don't pound on it. if it does not come free you will need a J 43631 tool to separate the ball joint from knuckle without damaging it.
remove jack.
disconnect lower ball joint (18mm socket)
if you didn't go out and get a J 43631 for the upper ball joint then.....
rotate steering knuckle 90 degrees put jack under the hub and jack it up till you are sure all the weight of the knuckle and lower control arm are on the jack. give a few taps with a hammer on the knuckle near the lower ball joint, mine came apart after 4-5 taps.
when you have the steering knuckle off and in your hand, lay it down face down on the lug posts, this will stop you from accidently bending the ball joints heat shield. if you bend it, it may scrape the rotor and drive you bonkers.
remove lower strut bolt, (13/16" socket)
remove steering rack to chassis bolt, you will need to lift the rack to remove the rear facing lower control arm bolt.
remove abs harness from lower control arm.
remove lower control arm bolts (11/16" socket) when loosening the second bolt make sure no part of you is under the lower control arm, it is going to drop (swing down) when the bushing tension is released.
if your replacing the strut assembly like I did
disconnect the MRC connection
fully remove 4 of 5 bolts (18mm socket)
start removing the 5th bolt while holding onto the strut. this is so when it lets go it does not drop and strike you, damn thing is not body part friendly.
to put everything back together just repeat in reverse. try and get your lower control arm to cradle bolts sitting in the spots the last ones were in. they sit in a channel for adjusting the toeing for your tires.
YES you will need a wheel alignment after this......
bolt torque specs.
lower control arm to cradle bolts (96 lbft)
steering rack to cradle bolts (89 lbft)
upper and lower ball joins + steering rack to knuckle (15 lbft + 210 degrees) I know weird eh, but that's what the manual says
sway bar link (81 lbft)
some of you may want to get the J 43631 tool before you start this. I didn't need it thankfully.
I made the mistake of not getting both strut assemblies so next weekend i'll be doing the RH strut assembly. this time i'll make a video.
over the weekend I tackled my lower control arms and LH strut assembly.
here is a little write up
LH FRONT
Brake loose lugs. (3/4" socket)
jack car and support on stand.
remove lugs and tire
remove brake caliper (13mm socket)
remove rotor (can't remember torx bit size)
place jack under ball joint and start raising to remove tension on sway bar link.
disconnect sway bar link (18mm socket)
disconnect steering link (18mm socket)
disconnect upper ball joint (18mm socket)
lower jack while gently tapping steering knuckle near upper ball joint with a hammer, comes free pretty easy, don't pound on it. if it does not come free you will need a J 43631 tool to separate the ball joint from knuckle without damaging it.
remove jack.
disconnect lower ball joint (18mm socket)
if you didn't go out and get a J 43631 for the upper ball joint then.....
rotate steering knuckle 90 degrees put jack under the hub and jack it up till you are sure all the weight of the knuckle and lower control arm are on the jack. give a few taps with a hammer on the knuckle near the lower ball joint, mine came apart after 4-5 taps.
when you have the steering knuckle off and in your hand, lay it down face down on the lug posts, this will stop you from accidently bending the ball joints heat shield. if you bend it, it may scrape the rotor and drive you bonkers.
remove lower strut bolt, (13/16" socket)
remove steering rack to chassis bolt, you will need to lift the rack to remove the rear facing lower control arm bolt.
remove abs harness from lower control arm.
remove lower control arm bolts (11/16" socket) when loosening the second bolt make sure no part of you is under the lower control arm, it is going to drop (swing down) when the bushing tension is released.
if your replacing the strut assembly like I did
disconnect the MRC connection
fully remove 4 of 5 bolts (18mm socket)
start removing the 5th bolt while holding onto the strut. this is so when it lets go it does not drop and strike you, damn thing is not body part friendly.
to put everything back together just repeat in reverse. try and get your lower control arm to cradle bolts sitting in the spots the last ones were in. they sit in a channel for adjusting the toeing for your tires.
YES you will need a wheel alignment after this......
bolt torque specs.
lower control arm to cradle bolts (96 lbft)
steering rack to cradle bolts (89 lbft)
upper and lower ball joins + steering rack to knuckle (15 lbft + 210 degrees) I know weird eh, but that's what the manual says
sway bar link (81 lbft)
some of you may want to get the J 43631 tool before you start this. I didn't need it thankfully.
I made the mistake of not getting both strut assemblies so next weekend i'll be doing the RH strut assembly. this time i'll make a video.