Cadillac STS Forum - 2005 through 2012 Discussion, HELP Remove Rear Wheel Bearings 2005 STS V8 in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Group -
Hi all. I hope someone can help me as I have done extensive searching and have yet to ...
Hi all. I hope someone can help me as I have done extensive searching and have yet to find the answer to this question. I have a 2005 Cadillac STS with the V8 Engine. My rear wheel bearings are bad and I am trying to replace them. The problem I am running into is that I cannot get any type of wrench or socket around the big CV housing and onto any of the 3 Bearing holding bolts. I removed the ball joint nut/bolt, but that only helped a little bit. I have seen this question posted a couple of times on this board, but I have been unable to find any definitive answers. Most of the responses pointed to the CTS version, which appears to be much easier to remove than the STS version (figures). It almost appears that I have to remove the entire wheel housing.. and I even tried that except I could not get the Sway Bar link off... Hopefully somebody has done this on an STS before and wouldn't mind providing some guidance to me. If not, does anyone know of anybody who has the Service Manual for this car. The only STS Service Manual I can find is a 2007/2008 Manual on EBay
Some members think highly of Alldata. When I had a bad rear bearing, the dealer replace the hub assembly. The part lists for around $300 and I'll bet Chris at Rippy's would get it to you for less, GM warranty & all.
Were you able to take off the hub on your 05 STS? How did you get to the bolts that hold the hub on? Did you have to take of the CV boot? I can see how to rotate it, but that just rotates the CV and does not help to get to the bottom hub bolt.
Oh, it is so close to being off!! I may have to remove the CV... please let me know if you figured it out! Thanks!
I just did my left rear. I have the 5 lug hubs.
Top two bolts were easy. Bottom was relatively easy as well, and I used a 3/8 drive ratchet with a standard depth socket and a 10" wobble extension. The ratchet head was sort of cradled by the lip on the bottom edge of the lower control arm (LCA), which actually made it more stable and easy to turn.
Come to think if it, I used a 1/2" drive socket and wobble extension when I had to torque the new hub down, and had no difficulty there either. The wobble extension may be the key here.
The only problem I ran in to during the whole process was disconnecting the upper control arm (UCA) from the knuckle to access the hub bolt it blocks. The remedy (for me) was putting a second jack under the LCA just outside of the spring seat and lifting it up a bit. You should be able to find a sweet spot that relieves the lateral pressure and allows you to tap the UCA up and out.
Feel free to hit me up if you have any more questions.
Let us know how it goes, and good luck!
I recommend you get a Timken hub if you don't want to do this one again in the near future. Don't buy the cheapest one on eBay.
If you haven't completed the job yet and are still struggling, here is how I did it.
I did the rear drivers side the weekend, now I have replaced all 4.
with the car on a jack stand.............
remove 36mm axle nut
give axle a couple soft taps with hammer till you see it more (SOFT TAPS)
remove caliper and set it aside (no need to disconnect the brake line), I remove the pads and slip it onto one of the sway links.
remove hand brake pad (that one is going to be a pain to get back on, it was the longest part for me. that damn spring...........)
remove all handbrake bits from dust shield. (this is so you can at least see that pesky bottom bolt)
put a jack under the lower control arm just under the spring.
jack it up just a touch to take the load off the knuckle.
make sure that the jack is secure and you don't hit it while working. that spring is extremely strong and you really don't want it coming out at you because the jack fell.
remove the lower control arm bold that is holding the knuckle.
grab the knuckle and pull it out just enough to slip the bolt back into the hole on the lower control arm so it is behind the knuckle. this is so the knuckle does not slip back into place while you are working,
reach behind and grip the CV axle and push away from you while softly taping the nut side with a hammer.
once it stops moving you are good to go with the hub!!!!!
now you should have enough room to remove the 3 hub bolts 18mm easily.
when putting it back together
18mm bolts for the hub at 96 ftlbs
36mm axle bolt is 118 ftlbs
maybe someone here can give an easy way to putting back the handbrake pad, that damn spring is a pain. lots of fiddling.