Hi everyone,
I am at 30% on my oil and am trying to prepare to purchase the oil and filter. Mobil 1 5w30, ok, 8 quarts? Does this engine really take 8 quarts?
Thank you..
Minus the questionable 3.6 the 1st Gen CTS is a solid car. I put almost 50k on mine before I traded it in and only had to replace a wheel bearing...Would've kept it if it wasn't for the damn timing chain starting to clatter on startup.
I don't mind the 8 quarts. Mobil1 in jugs runs around $25. My local guy changes it & the filter & rotates the tires for about another $30. That's about a buck & a half a week for regular maintenance.
My Mercedes diesels held over 8 quarts and they are all over 300K with their new owners....though a couple of their tranny bit the dust at 240K and 260K
96 sedan deville took damn near 10 ill say 9.5 my 97 took 9. my dts took 9. my 2006 sts takes 9. cts takes 6. i let mine drain till its trickling then put plug on and take it back off then let it drain some more while i check under the car for leaks and rust and other mishaps. i just buy 2 5 qt jugs of synthetic from walmart and be done, the extra quart either goes in cts if i chang both at the same time. funny my gtp only holds 4.25 or 4.5 if i use the blazer filter
Does it really need Mobil 1 Synthetic, or can we use any Synthetic Oil that meets GM4718M as per the Owner's Manual? (Mobil 1 for 8 quarts is like $100 bucks.)
My 1957 Jaguar XK140MC DOHC straight 6 took 14 quarts of straight SAE 30.
Guess what cools your engine's crank, rods, bearings, chains, cams, oil pump, valve tips, springs, piston skirts and other rotating guts - it sure isn't coolant ...... My marine olds 455's run 8-quart Milodon pans. Cooling.
......... and that oil runs normally at about 200 - 220 degrees. Why ? Because it needs to in order to flow properly (lubrication is flow, not pressure) as well as boil off the nasties from combustion blowby condensation and internal crankcase moisture. Look up "sludge' and see what causes it: cold oil.
GM won't tell you, but it publishes a list of the oils that meet their various engine specs - nearly every name brand of synthetic meets their current normally aspirated (NA) specs. Do some Google searching - "general motors approved engine oils" or something close.
My Mercedes 560SEC had quite a large oil sump - I don't remember exactly but something on the order of 9 quarts or so. I had to change out the leaking head gaskets (see it's not only Cadillac) but the amazing things were how clean the engine was (cams, sprockets, cylinders, etc.) and how little wear we encountered at 180,000 miles. We did not do a valve job on the engine as everything was still well within it's life. Did install a new timing chain while we were at it, although the old one was still within stretch limits (but getting close). I attribuite the long life to a large oil sump and oil changes every 5k.
My MB diesel also has a large oil sump and is still going strong at 220,000 miles. Today it is my son's daily driver.
I was pleased to hear that the N* was designed this way as I plan on keeping it a while.
Oil is good; more is better (except for mileage). It cleans, cools, seals & lubricates. Mobil1 is $27 for 5 quarts at Walmart; more or less in some markets. I get about 10,000 miles before the OLM tells me to change the oil. Sooo, doing the math, I spend roughly $0.0046 per mile (including sales tax) for Mobil1. It's cheap and the car has over 88,000 miles and rarely needs any added at all.
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