Won it and its being shipped here and once the weather clears so I can drive the Camaro this is another little project to add to the car along with finalizing my brembo upgrade and egx body kit.
I'm hoping I can just cut the dash (it's hollow) buy the HUD defrost nozzle and wire it up with the HUD dash switch and it'll be a go.
Don't want nor need acc so that removes most of the headache however does anyone know if there's any special programming needed to activate this once I hook everything up or once wired up will it just work (highly unlikely).
Any assist guys? Especially looking for insight from the other gurus (this means you ddadler!)
I would think you would have to enable the HUD via a tech 2 otherwise I would bet the car isn't going to broadcast the info it is going to pick up from the LAN bus.
I thought the same thing. However daddler shut off the RPO in his system and it still provided full data to the HUD.
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ddalder said:
Interestingly, after changing the settings in the IPM/RIM, there was no change in the operation of the HUD. I can tell you that the car will set a DTC for an incorrect number of modules detected on the data bus if options are not set correctly. I'm not certain exactly what other functions the configuration information controls, in light of this new information.
...after asking my dealer he has done it for me on my car via Tech 2 (...just for testing) ...don't ask for details ...but it was done very quickly...and has worked...
...so disabling should...or could also work...vice versa...
I haven't tried this. There are a couple of settings when configuring the vehicle options. One of the first screens allows for the selection of the country (the list is actually quite lengthy). I know that in some countries DRL's are not active. It may require changing the country selection to do this though. I have no idea how this would change other vehicle parameters. The export alarm is different as well as several other parameters (ie, no VCIM). When I have a chance I'll try changing the DRL setting without changing the country and see what happens. My vehicle was originally manufactured for the US market but I noticed that when it was imported, the dealership changed this setting to Canada.
I figured that this is possible, I'm just not sure if it requires changing the country ID or just the DRL parameter. Both are easily and quickly accomplished with just a Tech2. I've never tested it because I personally believe DRL's are a good idea and have no interest in disabling them.
It's odd that you are having problems with bulbs burning out. I've had my STS for 3 years now and never had a DRL/signal bulb burn out. I've only ever had to replace one side marker bulb.
It's odd that you are having problems with bulbs burning out. I've had my STS for 3 years now and never had a DRL/signal bulb burn out. I've only ever had to replace one side marker bulb.
Can you list the steps you took to access the ipm to manually change options.
My dealer says they cannot make changes on it I was going to provide them instructions how to get to the menu like you have.
They said unable to communicate with module when they tried. It may be they meant the ipm could not detect the HUD so it wouldn't turn on I'm not sure.
As soon as I have an opportunity, I'll either list the steps or make a video. My question is the same... were they unable to communicate with the IPM, or did they successfully connect to the IPM but when they tried to turn it on they got an error? If they were unable to connect to the IPM, the vehicle would use the backup settings stored in the RIM, but there should be a DTC set for 'Lost Communication With The Instrument Panel Module'. The only time I've ever had an error that the Tech2 was unable to connect to a module was when the module was defective (or missing), or the vehicle was built incorrectly in the Tech2 (wrong vehicle selected).
I only spoke briefly with the tech when I stopped in to pick up my ARP bolts and gaskets to finish my LS2 build on the Camaro (were in the trunk and has been for several weeks so figured about to time to drop by and grab those) and the techs words were that he tried to turn it on but it was unable to communicate. I didnt think to ask if he meant the IPM or since the HUD isnt present yet it wouldn't turn on.
I HIGHLY doubt there's an issue with my IPM. I monitor the module with my Snap on Ethos (incapable of bilateral controls but can read all modules) and I never had a failed IPM code.
I look forward to your video, I GREATLY appreciate it.
Haven't forgotten about the video, just been very busy. I finally set-up my a new stand and TV for my sister tonight. She's been waiting about 5 weeks. It won't be that long, probably in the next 5-6 days.
That's pretty much what I was going to post. They are a metal clip that expands slightly as the screw passes through preventing them from pulling out. It is the same part that's used in other parts of the dash. Very common at the auto wrecker in a lot of GM vehicles. I have about 30 of them sitting on the shelf.
Picking your brain since your the only one I know that's done this
The wire harness, is there one major plug and all the wiring clipped to the ip will come out with it or do I need to undo each wire clip on the plastic ip and it remains in the carrier. So far trying to determine if the dash speakers and sun load sensor wire needs removed and unclipped or if it remains on the carrier while removing. Thanks!!!
There really isn't much in the way of wiring that attaches to the instrument panel carrier. There are some hidden screws in a couple of locations that are a bit of a pain (park brake release handle bracket and a couple on the right side of the dash) but removing just the IP carrier should be as far as you need to go. Wiring stays pretty much in the car.
As for removing the IP carrier, your best action is to remove the shifter and the steering column first. When the dealership replaced my HUD under warranty, they had to break sections of the IP carrier to get it around these. I'm still irritated to this day about how they handled this but there's not a lot I can do now. One thing you can try is to remove just the column to start. With it completely gone you may be able to lift the IP carrier up enough to clear the shifter.
You should be able to make all necessary wiring connections with the harness and cast instrument panel structure in place. The carrier is very awkward so be sure to have an assistant to avoid damage to other interior trim.
As for the components on the top of the dash, remove and unplug the speakers. Unplug the sunload sensor and unclip the wiring from the IP carrier. Just make sure when it all goes back together that wiring on top is exposed properly. You won't want to take it apart again to fish out a speaker wire. You will also need to pay attention to the IPM and bracket since these (as I recall) attach to both the IP carrier and the cast dash structure.
IT WORKS!!!! Installed the 2008 rcdlr in my sts today. Install was easy programming for the fobs and then clearing the ECM to learn the rcdlr password took an hour but the secure car feature works PERFECT on my 05 sts.
Non HUD dash can be cut to fit HUD, thus dashboard is NOT needed.
Everything worked great other than the hud itself. It appears the refurbished HUD is a dud. It powers on reads all information but will not move or adjust with the toggle switch. It moves during initial power so the motor is good but it is not interpreting the switch command at all. Tested my switch on my dads car and it does in fact work so I know its not the switch. Wiring has been checked several times and short of completing a voltage check per Darcys help, I have written off the HUD as the issue. Car will remain in parts until the "NEW" HUD I just purchased off ebay for $100 this time (and it does state NEW not refurbished, HUD comes in).
Did the display corner markings show up when trying to move it? Maybe the mirror is just stuck / off the track.
Does the illumination change?
If it moves during startup that sounds like it would be moving to a memory position ...
Did the display corner markings show up when trying to move it? Maybe the mirror is just stuck / off the track.
Does the illumination change?
If it moves during startup that sounds like it would be moving to a memory position ...
The brackets showed up during power on. On initial tests it did in fact move in one direction but then stopped completely. The brackets appeared during that initial test but no longer appear only during the initial boot on start up.
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mkosharkii said:
1Bad,
Would you be willing to sell the refurbished unit? If so, how much? My adjustment mirror is warped and the plexiglass window is gone.
It's in perfect shape other than the lack of response to the switch. Motor does work it moves up and down on start up but non responsive via switch.
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