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Cadillac STS Forum - 2005 through 2012 Discussion, check engine light (ON) 06 STS in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; That is pretty big rip off if they were charging separate labor on all of those items as some of ...
  1. #31
    btlegacy is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: check engine light (ON) 06 STS

    That is pretty big rip off if they were charging separate labor on all of those items as some of them can be done in one sweep.

    In order to change the spark plugs the plenum has to come off anyway so there should not be double labor cost there. It was most likely just a single bad coil and in my shop I would replace the coil and replace all the spark plugs since I am in there if they are close to age.

    Looking at the retail prices I charge this is what the breakdown would be:

    Plenum Gasket - Parts $53 Labor $120
    Ignition Coil - Parts $59 Labor $15
    Spark Plugs x 6 - Parts $8.50 x 6 = $51 Labor $30

    The fuel filter is about $16 but I am betting it was just an extra unnecessary addon.

    The crankcase flush is a gimmick some shops use to get money out of people. They basically dump a $5 can of solvent in the crankcase and then dump it out with oil and refill with new oil. They usually state that it cleans dirt and contaminants but it is nothing more than snake oil as the oil filter on the engine is designed to trap these contaminants so the flush does not give you anymore benefit than a regular oil change.

  2. #32
    fredolan is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: check engine light (ON) 06 STS

    Gotcha. No one else is screaming that I am being completely ripped off so I will bite the bullet.
    I still love this car and am not ready to part with it.

    By the by. I have spent a lot of time in CA. My parents owned a cottage in Grand Bend. Hung
    in London quite a bit. I just watched a home remodel show on cable. I was blown away
    by the prices for real estate in Tronto! OMG. Incredible.

    Have a great day. Thanks again!

  3. #33
    Ludacrisvp's Avatar
    Ludacrisvp is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: check engine light (ON) 06 STS

    FWIW ... the fredolan has the 4.6L northstar V8, not the 3.6L V6 (like the OP did and the thread was about)...

    Short story:
    ---------------
    $600 is obscene for the coil.


    $100 coil, and 30 minutes of labor.

    The throttle body on the other hand I've never messed with so that might be an OK amount.
    ---------------

    Long story:

    The N* is really easy to change plugs in comparison to the V6.

    The coils are easy to replace on the V8 as well since you are removing and re-inserting them when doing the plugs.
    They are about $107 GM list price for each coil, which would be about $800 for all 8 of them (not that you would need or want to do all of them).
    GMpartsdirect has them for $55 + shipping GM P/N 12597745.

    The plugs are GM P/N 12571535 and list for about $10 each, GMPD has them for about $5 + shipping.
    ( for my location in MN it would run $120 shipped for 8 plugs and 1 coil - Chris at Rippy Cadillac would be a better choice to get the parts from in my mind )

    Labor on the plugs is about 2 hours, labor on the coil is 30 mins for 1 coil, and about 8 minutes per each additional coil.

    Here are the directions on how to change the plugs on the V8.

    Gap is 0.050 in
    Torque 11 lb ft. or 15 lb ft depending on which documentation you are looking at.

    Spark Plug Replacement

    Removal Procedure

    1. Remove the ignition coils.

    Code:
     - Bank 1 and 2 are the same.
    
    1. Remove the fuel injector sight shield. (the N* engine 'beauty cover')
    2. Remove the ignition coil cover from the cam cover by lifting straight up.
    3. Disconnect the ignition coil wiring harness electrical connector from the coil that needs to be replaced.
    4. Remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
    5. Carefully remove the ignition coil.
    Caution: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air, as flying dirt particles may cause eye injury.

    Notice: Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the spark plug.
    Failure to do so could result in engine damage because of dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head, or by the contamination of the cylinder head threads.
    The contaminated threads may prevent the proper seating of the new plug. Use a thread chaser to clean the threads of any contamination.
    Notice: Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs.
    Attempting to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause the plug threads to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.

    Code:
    1. Clean the spark plug recess area with low pressure air.
    2. Remove the spark plugs from the cylinder heads.
    3. Inspect the spark plugs.
    Code:
    Spark Plug Inspection 
    
    Worn or dirty spark plugs may operate well at idle speeds, but frequently fail at higher load. Bad spark plugs are often responsible for the following conditions:
    
    • Power loss
    • Poor fuel economy
    • Loss of speed
    • Hard starting
    • Poor engine performance
    
    Normal spark plug operation results in brown to grayish tan deposits on the area of the spark plug that enters the cylinder. 
    A small amount of reddish brown, yellow, and white powdery residue may also be present on the insulator tip around the center electrode. 
    These deposits are normal combustion by-products of fuels and lubricating oils which contain additives.
    
    Misfiring is a general term that applies to a poor running engine. 
    With misfiring, the ignition spark is not igniting the air/fuel mixture at the proper time. 
    While other possible causes must be investigated, the spark plugs should be inspected first. 
    Spark voltage should not reach ground before jumping across the gap at the tip of the spark plug. 
    This leaves the air/fuel mixture unburned, causing misfiring. 
    Pre-ignition misfiring occurs when the spark plug tip overheats, igniting the mixture before the spark jumps.
    
    Carbon fouling of the spark plug is indicated by dry carbon deposits on the portion of the spark plug inside of the cylinder. 
    Excess idling and driving at slower speeds under light engine loads can keep the spark plug temperatures so low that these deposits are not burned off. 
    Rich fuels or poor ignition system output may also cause carbon fouling.
    
    Oil fouling of the spark plug appears as wet oily deposits on the portion of the spark plug inside of the cylinder. 
    
    This may be caused by the following conditions:
    
    • Oil getting past worn piston rings
    • Breaking in a new or recently overhauled engine
    
    Deposit fouling of the spark plug occurs when the normal reddish brown, yellow, or white deposits of combustion by-products become sufficient enough to cause misfiring. 
    In some cases, these deposits melt and form a shiny glaze on the insulator around the center electrode. 
    If the fouling is found only in one or two of the cylinders, valve stem clearances or the intake valve seals may be allowing excess lubricating oil to enter the cylinder, particularly if the deposits are heavier on the intake valve side of the spark plug.
    
    Excess gap means that the air space between the center and side electrodes at the bottom of the spark plug is too wide for consistent firing. 
    This may be due to improper gap adjustment or to excess wear of the electrodes during use. 
    A gap that is too small may cause idling instability. 
    Excess gap wear might indicate vehicle operation at continual high speeds or with high engine loads. 
    This causes the spark plugs to run too hot. 
    Excessively lean fuel may also cause the wear.
    
    Improper torque or seating can cause a spark plug to run hot, eventually leading to excess gap wear. 
    In extreme cases, an overtightened or under-tightened spark plug can cause exhaust blow-by. 
    The cylinder head seats must make good contact for sufficient heat transfer and spark plug cooling. 
    Dirty or damaged threads in the head or on the spark plug can keep the spark plug from seating even though the proper torque is applied. 
    Once the spark plugs are properly seated, tighten the spark plugs properly.
    
    Cracked or broken insulators and insulator tips may be the result of improper installation or heat shock. 
    Heat shock is a rapid increase in the insulator tip temperature which causes the insulator material to crack. 
    The upper insulators can be broken when a poorly-fitting tool is used during servicing, or when the spark plug is hit from the outside. 
    Cracks in the upper insulator may be inside the shell or invisible. 
    The breakage may not cause problems until oil or water penetrates the crack later. 
    Heat shock breakage in the lower insulator tip generally occurs during severe engine operating conditions such as higher RPM or heavy loading. 
    Over advanced timing or low grade fuels may also cause heat shock breakage. 
    Always replace spark plugs with broken or cracked insulators.
    
    Damage during gapping can occur when the tool is pushed against the center electrode or the surrounding insulator, causing the insulator to crack. 
    When gapping a spark plug, bend only the outside electrode. 
    Keep tools free of any other parts.
    
    Spark plugs with less than the recommended amount of service can sometimes be cleaned and regapped, then returned to service. 
    If there is any doubt about the serviceability of a spark plug, replace the spark plug.
    Installation Procedure

    Notice: Use only the spark plugs specified for use in the vehicle.
    Do not install spark plugs that are either hotter or colder than those specified for the vehicle.
    Installing spark plugs of another type can severely damage the engine.

    Notice: Check the gap of all new and reconditioned spark plugs before installation.
    The pre-set gaps may have changed during handling.
    Use a round feeler gage to ensure an accurate check.
    Installing the spark plugs with the wrong gap can cause poor engine performance and may even damage the engine.

    Measure the spark plug gap on the spark plugs to be installed.
    Compare the measurement to the gap specifications.

    Notice: Be sure that the spark plug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and the spark plug is fully seated.
    Use a thread chaser, if necessary, to clean threads in the cylinder head.
    Cross-threading or failing to fully seat the spark plug can cause overheating of the plug, exhaust blow-by, or thread damage.

    Code:
    1. Install the spark plugs to the cylinder heads.
     - Tighten the spark plugs to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
    Install the ignition coils.
    Important: Ensure that the spark plug seals are in place when installing the ignition coil.
    Code:
    1. Install the ignition coil.
    2. Install the ignition coil retaining bolt.
    3. Tighten the ignition coil retaining bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in). 
    4. Reconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.
    5. Install the ignition coil cover to the cam cover.
    6. Install the fuel injector sight shield.

  4. #34
    btlegacy is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: check engine light (ON) 06 STS

    I see. I didn't catch that it was a N*. In that case, the coil is even cheaper. You can snap up an ACDELCO unit for less than $40 on Amazon

    http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D596A-...keywords=D596A

  5. #35
    Mullah88's Avatar
    Mullah88 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Um that's too much, I'll find the receipt of when I changed all 6 coils and did the 150k maintenance work (which I think included throttle body cleaning). I don't think it was that high

  6. #36
    EChas3's Avatar
    EChas3 is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: check engine light (ON) 06 STS

    I'm a fan of throttle body cleaning & Top Tier fuels. With electronic throttle control it doesn't take much to affect throttle response. Even unseen deposits can increase wear.

  7. #37
    KRSTS is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: check engine light (ON) 06 STS

    I just replaced my #4 coil pack and plug. Car started misfiring and check engine light came on and threw a code P0304. Car is running fine now. How many start cycles will it take to clear the code and turn off the light or should I just disconnect the battery?

  8. #38
    carter's_sts is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Best way is to clear it with a scan tool. If not, I would disconnect the battery.

  9. #39
    Mullah88's Avatar
    Mullah88 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Thread Starter
    Looks like my starter is giving out. Car will not start on first crank, but after sitting idle for about a minute, it starts normally.

    Also my mpg is abysmal! I don't know if it's the Rims (20s) I put on but the car is now getting only 15.5mpg combined! Rpm on normal drive Coasts above 2000 and above 3000 when maintaining just 45mph?? Something is definitely not right

    It used to be 65mph and the Rpm usually say above the 2000 Mark

    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

  10. #40
    DarkMingBlueSTS's Avatar
    DarkMingBlueSTS is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mullah88
    Looks like my starter is giving out. Car will not start on first crank, but after sitting idle for about a minute, it starts normally.

    Also my mpg is abysmal! I don't know if it's the Rims (20s) I put on but the car is now getting only 15.5mpg combined! Rpm on normal drive Coasts above 2000 and above 3000 when maintaining just 45mph?? Something is definitely not right

    It used to be 65mph and the Rpm usually say above the 2000 Mark

    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
    The aftermarket wheels maybe heavier causing you to have to accelerate harder to get them to move. Your overall tire/rim diameter is different from the oem setup which is throwing off the way the car was designed with oem rims/tires which is changing your rpm to mph and that too is affecting your mpg. Lol now you know why mine is still oem.

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Mullah88
    Looks like my starter is giving out. Car will not start on first crank, but after sitting idle for about a minute, it starts normally.

    Also my mpg is abysmal! I don't know if it's the Rims (20s) I put on but the car is now getting only 15.5mpg combined! Rpm on normal drive Coasts above 2000 and above 3000 when maintaining just 45mph?? Something is definitely not right

    It used to be 65mph and the Rpm usually say above the 2000 Mark

    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
    Oh yeah and the starter....does it click multiple times or just one click? Or does it start real slow?

  11. #41
    Mullah88's Avatar
    Mullah88 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkMingBlueSTS View Post
    The aftermarket wheels maybe heavier causing you to have to accelerate harder to get them to move. Your overall tire/rim diameter is different from the oem setup which is throwing off the way the car was designed with oem rims/tires which is changing your rpm to mph and that too is affecting your mpg. Lol now you know why mine is still oem.

    ----------



    Oh yeah and the starter....does it click multiple times or just one click? Or does it start real slow?
    The Rims I kinda figured would mess with things but not that much lol. For the starter, it starts really slow! like the car is struggling

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  12. #42
    DarkMingBlueSTS's Avatar
    DarkMingBlueSTS is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mullah88

    The Rims I kinda figured would mess with things but not that much lol. For the starter, it starts really slow! like the car is struggling

    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
    Sounds like it could be the starter but have you had the battery checked?

  13. #43
    Mullah88's Avatar
    Mullah88 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Changed the battery last year when the ignition coils were changed.

    Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

  14. #44
    STSJr's Avatar
    STSJr is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    I had 20 inch rims on my Honda CRV before my Caddy. I got 20 mpg with a 4 cyl. Now I have a V8 and I get 24 mpg with original 18 inch wheels. I'm keeping the classy chrome Caddy look. FYI. I lost a huge amount of money selling aftermarket wheels. They lose their value real quick.

  15. #45
    Mullah88's Avatar
    Mullah88 is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by STSJr View Post
    I had 20 inch rims on my Honda CRV before my Caddy. I got 20 mpg with a 4 cyl. Now I have a V8 and I get 24 mpg with original 18 inch wheels. I'm keeping the classy chrome Caddy look. FYI. I lost a huge amount of money selling aftermarket wheels. They lose their value real quick.
    Lol don't Plan on selling my rohanas, my next car purchase will be the 08 - current cts and I believe the bolt patten is the same as the sts

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