Creaky Seat 05 STS4

Joe Pagano · #1 (**permalink**) 09-06-09, 12:51 AM

Hey Folks,
I have read all the posts (I think) on the creaky seat issue with the 05 STS driver seat. I even copied the TSB on the dealer fix under warranty.
So, here is my question. My car is out of warranty and I would like to know if any of you have done this fix on your own? If so are there any pointers I need to have, and any danger is screwing something up?
Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Joe P
05 STS
07 CTS

amgqmp1 · #2 (**permalink**) 09-06-09, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Pagano

Hey Folks,
I have read all the posts (I think) on the creaky seat issue with the 05 STS driver seat. I even copied the TSB on the dealer fix under warranty.
So, here is my question. My car is out of warranty and I would like to know if any of you have done this fix on your own? If so are there any pointers I need to have, and any danger is screwing something up?
Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Joe P
05 STS
07 CTS

I'll second this request...as I have an '05 and I'm in the same boat. I have the TSB procedure and will hopefully have time to tackel it in the next week or so...seems pretty straightforward. I'll add my experiences here...

sburgin · #3 (**permalink**) 09-06-09, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amgqmp1

I'll second this request...as I have an '05 and I'm in the same boat. I have the TSB procedure and will hopefully have time to tackel it in the next week or so...seems pretty straightforward. I'll add my experiences here...

would you guys mind posting the TSB procedure for all to benefit ?

Joe Pagano · #4 (**permalink**) 09-07-09, 01:56 AM

Condition
Some customers may comment that the driver or passenger seat cushion moves sideways slightly while going around corners. They may also hear a pop or creak noise when this happens.

Cause
This condition may be caused by too much clearance between the seat cushion platform anchors and the seat adjuster rail.

Correction
Install four pieces of rubber hose (vacuum line) on the seat adjuster track following the procedure below:

Move the seat back and up in order to gain access.
Remove the power seat switch bezel by pulling the bezel away from the seat. This will disengage the retaining clips.
Remove the seat trim plate.
Disconnect the connector from the power seat switch.
Remove the two 10 mm nuts that retain the seat cushion to the adjuster rail.
Lift the front of the seat cushion up and forward in order to unfasten the rear hooks that retain the seat cushion to the adjuster rail.
Cut four pieces of 7/64 in rubber hose (vacuum line).

Split the rubber hose (vacuum line) down the side . Apply weatherstrip adhesive to the inside of the hose (vacuum line) and install to the seat adjuster rail.
Install the seat cushion to the adjuster rail.
Install the two 10 mm nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the seat cushion nuts to 9 N·m (80 lb in).

Install the seat trim plate.
Connect the electrical connector to the power seat switch.
Install the power seat switch bezel.
Re-zero the inflatable restraint passenger presence system whenever the seat cushion or any components are removed. Refer to Control Module References.
Warranty Information
For vehicle repaired under warranty, use;

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

C9711*
Left Seat Cushion, Install Rubber Hose Adjuster Rail - R&R
0.3 hr

C9712*
Right Seat Cushion, Install Rubber Hose Adjuster Rail - R&R
0.3 hr

thebigjimsho · #5 (**permalink**) 09-07-09, 04:24 PM

You should ask Tony Pagano...

Lifer · #6 (**permalink**) 09-07-09, 08:18 PM

Re-zero the inflatable restraint passenger presence system whenever the seat cushion or any components are removed. Refer to Control Module References.

How is this done?

Joe Pagano · #7 (**permalink**) 09-08-09, 12:37 AM

That would not, I believe, apply to DRIVER seat.

Lifer · #8 (**permalink**) 09-08-09, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lifer

Re-zero the inflatable restraint passenger presence system whenever the seat cushion or any components are removed. Refer to Control Module References.

How is this done?

The sentence does say passenger seat. But the TSB in the beginning mentions driver or passenger seat.

So, how do you re-zero the inflatable restraint passenger/driver presence system whenever the seat cushion or any components are removed?

Or is this part of the passenger seat that knows when a warm, heavy butt is in place?

Joe Pagano · #9 (**permalink**) 09-08-09, 04:38 PM

There is no logical reason for a "presence" system in the driver seat. The monitor only specifies "passenger seat" and we know there are none in the rear. Besides there is a cost factor.
Meanwhile, is there anybody that can give us some pointers or pitfalls?
Thanks again.................. Joe

deucedude2003 · #10 (**permalink**) 09-14-09, 02:40 PM

Joe,
Fixed my loose seat. My seat had one hand tight nut and one that was backed off about half way. I did put some rubber hose underneath, but for the life of me I can't get my head around where the TSB meant it to be. Still scratching my head on that one. It says split the hose and install four pieces, but where? Critical piece of info left out in my opinion! I thought it would become obvious, but no! I know where I put it, that's about it.
Let me know if you have any ?'s
P.S.
Didn't try it with just tightening the nuts, that may have been it ???
I know its rock solid now, the whole car moves when pushing and pulling on the seat bottom. The pass seat was never a problem, just Driv.

Joe Pagano · #11 (**permalink**) 09-14-09, 09:18 PM

I did find one loose nut, but that did not cure problem. What I get from that TSB is removing the power controls then the plastic wrap around trim. Then remove the bolts holding the seat bottom, then lifting it up off the rails ( I assume front, back and both sides ) applying the split hose, with adhesive, on top of each rail and reseating and bolting the seat down. Replace trim, controls and happy motoring.
Now, having said all that, I would really love to talk to an owner, or tech, that has actually done it. I am sure there is no airbag sensor in the driver seat, even GM can't be that dumb.
I just may find some time and dive into this project. I am out of warranty and not willing to take out a loan to pay the Caddy dealer....... ;-)
If I do I will of course post all the details, good and ( I hope not) bad..................... Joe

deucedude2003 · #12 (**permalink**) 09-15-09, 09:41 AM

What I did and observations;
You need to remove the plastic piece around the seat base, it won't come completely off though until the switches are unplugged ( the wires aren't long enough). The seat adj switches remain with it. The part is two pieces joined together, don't be tempted to take them apart, remove as one piece. It just pulls off, but be careful, it uses two types of clips. Watch for the black ones that are permanent in the plastic to maybe come out and fall (one of mine did, just pushed it back in respective hole. Then you need to unplug the two switch connectors, this is the hardest part of the job, go figure. The one for lumbar is easy, external clip needs held out with small screwdriver while pulling conn. off. The other one is much more difficult to release. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the retaining clip while using a small screwdriver to pry the conn. off. Unlike the other one that goes "inside" this one fits over, female as opposed to male. I put the screwdriver against the conn. and the plastic trim piece to pry it off. The important part is to realize that the conn. your looking at goes over the switch conn. not into it. I hope that's clear enough. Now put the piece aside. Next remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the seat base down, they are in the front on each side. The seat base can then be lifted off by lifting the front and then pulling the base towards the steering wheel. I had to push mine a little towards the back of the car before lifting because the studs for the nuts dragged a little on the holes in the track. I didn't pull the base all the way off, because their is what I think, a body computer attached to the underside of the seat base. I just held it out of my way while I did the work. Did not want to unplug. Next I saw where the rub marks were on the metal track(where the seat base studs, and base hooks in the back go through) and made plans for the rubber hose. I decided to cut and split four small pieces about and inch long and glue them in the holes on the track. In the back where the hooks go, I put a piece in the outboard inside of the holes, that way when the hooks went into the holes they wouldn't be sloppy. I did the same for the front square plastic "nubs" (for lack of a better term) that fit in the track just behind the base studs. But in this case, I put the hose in the back of the hole so when you lowered the base down the squares would squeeze down into the hose. Then in the center of the track is a groove that was pressed into the track to give it strength, at the back I glued about four inches of un-split hose in the groove because of rub marks back there. Only in the back part did I put hose. Then I put the seat base back in and reversed all the previous steps and it was very tight after that. One other thing, I did put blue loctite on the nuts just in case, remember from before, mine were loose.
I hope this helps Joe and others.
Any ?'s feel free to ask.
PM me Joe if you need to speak to me.
Good Luck!

Joe Pagano · #13 (**permalink**) 09-15-09, 02:36 PM

Great description, I assume this cured the problem? Well, it really sounds doable (there's a word I have never typed), I will get my hose and glue and have at it first chance. My first project is the body color (moonstone) grille, the last of the stuff arrived today. Then I should have my LockPick by Saturday, but that should only take a half hour tops, with switch mounting. Should be able to get to the seat early next week.
Thanks for the info and I will post. I also need to learn how to post pictures on the forum, have not done so yet.
Joe

deucedude2003 · #14 (**permalink**) 09-15-09, 03:55 PM

It did make my seat rock solid. I really didn't have much "noise" just movement. Shouldn't take more than about a half hour, I spent almost that much time trying to decide where to put the hose. With any luck my description will make more sense when you get in there. I did the best I could, but should have took pics, too lazy to go get the camera and post, sorry!
Good Luck!

Joe Pagano · #15 (**permalink**) 09-19-09, 01:10 AM

TaDa.............just cleaned up, just over an hour in the garage, man it gets warm in there. Anyway, seat is done, rock solid, no creak and no movement or noise. What a relief. Duce, you were right on the money. Several observations, first, you cannot really picture the problem area until that seat is up and away. That's when you see that there are four plastic pods that seat into square holes in the metal rails. You can even see the wear marks from the rubbing, ergo the noise. I didn't think I would need the silicone but soon found out that its main purpose is to keep those darn hose pieces in place until you can finesse those plastic pods in place. Then you really need some muscle to seat those back ones in because they are now in a tighter place and need to be pushed back since they act like hooks to keep the back of the seat from coming up. (no bolts in rear) Then seating the fronts takes some force until you catch the studs and tighten things down. One more thing, that electrical connection at the rear of the seat module was easy, screw driver to the under side clip and pull. I could not get that front connector off no matter how I tried, I was afraid I would damage it. On close inspection it was clear that prying away 4 plastic clips I could remove the entire module from the trim base, of course you need to remove the control levers, they pop off and back on.
So, it came down to the forum steppin up once again, thank you Deuce, and then just diving in. Joe P -
Wow the grille and seat within 3 days, now if my LockPick is delivered tomorrow I will really have a grin on...............................