Cadillac SRX Second Generation Forum - 2010+ Discussion, OEM HID Conversion possible? in Cadillac SRX Forums; To get to the passenger side headlight bulbs you'll need to remove the air filter box. This is held in ...
To get to the passenger side headlight bulbs you'll need to remove the air filter box. This is held in place by three Torx screws, so you'll need a Torx socket, since one of the screws is difficult to reach with a screwdriver. If I remember correctly it is a T30. Took me about 15 minutes to change my low beam bulbs to Phillip Crystalvison.
Thanks Phil. I do have a Torx set and should not have a problem with the box. I am a little disappointed that these companies do not provide more picture detail of the newer cars and specific installation instructions. I offered to do the conversion from a company on this site that offered a discount to anyone who would provide pictures and details of their conversion but they never replied even after several private messages. Generally the HID conversion companies use a car that has the easiest access to install their product in their videos so it is natural to conclude that it will be easy in the SRX. Thanks for the advice and if you remember any other thing that will make it easier I would appreciate it.
Yes, they tend make it seem easier than it really is. In the case of our vehicles, there are large caps on the light housing for the high and low beam lights that seal moisture out. It will likely be necessary to drill holes though these caps so the wires from the ballast can pass through. Some kits come with grommets for the wires and some don't. I don't think putting the ballast inside of the headlight housing is a good idea, nor is leaving the caps off. The heat buildup might shorten the ballasts life, or water might get in and cause a short if the caps are left off. I believe the Phillips kit comes with the necessary grommets. Which bulb did you choose. 4300k or 6000k?
By the way for those that are following this thread, the 4300k and 6000k numbers have nothing whatsoever to do with the brightness of the light. It is a measure of the color of the light with 4300k being almost pure white. The higher the number, the bluer the light. The lower the number, the more yellow it is. Brightness is measured in Lumens and most manufacturers don't provide that information for some reason.
I chose the 6000k lights and yes it does come with the grommets. I watched that video and you are right that they picked a real easy car to illustrate their product on. However, Inspectorudy will expose them if they are defrauding us with their claims! I truly hope that it is a good kit and that it makes my car lights up to modern standards. BTW,I think the XTS comes with HID lights as standard even on their lower model.
OK here is the skinny on a DIY "Plug and Play" kit from Phillips.
1. $215 from the company listed above. Took three days because it comes from CA.
2. Kit contains two bulbs and harnesses and two ballasts and two bolts with nuts for the ballast mounting.
3. Instruction booklet is written in very small print but is legible.
4. Opened hood to decide which side to start on. I picked the drivers side. Mistake.
I should have started on the passenger's side because it is so much easier.
5. Passenger side removal and installation. Disconnect the two plugs from the air box, (Different sizes so you cannot screw it up). Undo hose clamp from box, unflip the three spring clips on the outside of the air box. Beware, these are like tool box snaps in that they have a longer lever that flips up to release the wire you see at the top. Do not pry them off with a screw driver. Think steam trunk snaps, turn the two Torx head screws, (they do not remove from the box) and remove box. The front of the box has a rubber boot on it and if it comes off do not worry about it right now. The back of the headlight is plainly visible at this time, (see the photo of the totally clear rear cover), and it is removed by turning it clockwise looking from the front of the car. I used a long screw driver against one of the spokes and tapped it lightly with a hammer to get it to turn. On the left side of each Headlight rear cover you will see a small tab that must fit into a slot at the 9 o'clock position on the lamp assembly. It starts at the bottom of the slot and then when you rotate it CW it goes to the top of the slot to remove the cover. If you do not line up this tab at the top of the slot when you go to reassemble the unit it will not seat properly and will not tighten as you turn it CCw.
6. Remove the cover and drill a one inch hole in it in the middle. This hole does not have to be perfectly round and only has to be large enough for the big connector to pass through it. There are spokes on the outside of the cover and you will need to clear an area around the hole
about 1/4 inch of the spokes so that the rubber grommet will lie flat on the cover. So you end up with a one inch hole and a 1/4 inch ring around the hole by cutting off the inner legs of the spokes.
7. Reach in and twist the old light bulb and remove it. Un-clip from the harness it by inserting a screw driver into the slot and prying up the tab.
8.Take the new bulb/harness but do not touch the new bulb and insert the new bulb into the light hole and twist until it stops.
9.Take the connector from the old light and snap it into the double connector on the bulb end of the harness. Beware, The wires should be brown to black and blue to green. The connectors in my kit were backwards but they will still fit into the connector even though there is a small guide bump to prevent you reversing them. Now take the rear cover and slide it over the open end of the harness, spokes side out, and insert the grommet into the hole you made and make sure that it is flush with the 1/4 inch area you trimmed off.
10. Hook up the wires from the ballast to the light harness, (Even a monkey cannot mess this step up), and you are done as far as the light is concerned. It is a good time to check you work before putting everything back into place by turning on your headlights. Now you will see the old halogen and the new HID side by side on the wall. If it doesn't work the connector in the light housing is backwards. Make sure that the rubber boot is fully connected to the plastic tube from the air box and with the rubber tube down and toward the front work it into position. You will have to do a little juggling and mind the rubber tube so that you do not knock it loose and then you are done with the box (Finding the two Torx screw holes can take a minute but if you push on the screw while moving the box around you will feel it fall into the screw hole. Mount the ballast anywhere you can away from any heat source. I mounted it on the fender under the black plastic trim just like the driver's side, (See photo).
11. Now for the hard part. The driver's side light cover is removable without removing anything but that is all you can do except remove the old light bulb and disconnect the connector (see the first three photos with the fuse box in place and the last two after the fuse box was removed and the bulb and harness are in place.). For my hand and even my wife's small hand there isn't enough room to actual reconnect anything or to install the new bulb and twist it into place. I considered making a clamp to hold the bulb with a 90 degree angle to push and twist the bulb into place but did not do it. I had to remove the fuse box cover and then the fuse box itself to have access to the light housing. The fuse box has three bright silver screws that must be loosened but they do not come out of the box and then there are three snaps on each side of the outside of the fuse box that have to be unsnapped. The three on the engine side are real easy but the three on the fender side are a bitch because you cannot see them, only feel them. They are the type that are tripped be a small flat blade screw driver or a thumb nail but will snap back closed if you do not pull up on the fuse box as you unsnap them. A little playing with the tabs and you will get the drift. I did the engine side tabs first and then worked my way aft with the fender side tabs last while pulling slightly up on the fuse box.
12. Now the hard part. I held the fuse box up about 4 to 6 inches, that's all it will move, and my wife reached under the fuse box and inserted the new bulb into the slot and turned it. I fished the harness out from under the fuse box and connected the housing connector, (Black to brown and green to blue), and then pulled the rear cover plate over the harness, spoke side out, and placed the rear cover into the housing, tab at the top of the 9 o'clock and rotated it CW until it locked.
13. Connect the ballast and try the lights NOW before you go through all the steps to re-install the fuse box. If it works you are in business.
14. Put the fuse box back together and screw it down. I mounted my ballasts on the top of fenders on each side under the black plastic trim with the supplied blots and nut, (See photo) .
15. I did get a check engine light but it went out after a second start up. Also when you remove the fuse box everything is disconnected so you will lose your FAVS and any personal settings. My outside rear view mirrors went to in and down when I backed up which I guess is some sort of default setting.
16. I removed some of the black plastic trim around the head lights and it is really easy. The thing to remember is that the big black headed fasteners are two pieces and the inner piece has to be removed first to allow the second piece to come out. From the top they look like one piece but the smaller piece will pop out when pried up. Install them in the reverse order, big part first then the smaller insert.
I am not going to lie to you about how easy this was. The passenger side was easy but driver's side was a bear. If GM had made the fuse box just two inches shorter then none of this would have had to be removed. I have some pictures for you to look at and if you have any questions let me know. The kit parts were all I needed and the kit was real easy to comprehend. It's the GM side that is so hard. The last picture shows the difference between the halogen and the HID against my garage wall. Just got back from a 11 o'clock drive and the new lights are really white and bright. The cut off at the top is like a wall and there is no bleed over.
Here are some more pictures that I could not upload to the last post. Oops, I can't add anymore pictures because I have exceeded my 1.85 KB limit. But you can see on the airbox how the snaps work and in this picture the rubber extension is not on it. If you look at the front of the box you can see a protrusion that has a hole for the third screw bu on mine the crew was put in below the box and I did not correct it. Must have been a Monday car!
Yes the DRL work just like before at reduced voltage and with no flickering. The ballast have the built in anti flicker device in them. The lights are very white at night and the difference is noticeable but without driving one and then the other it is difficult to really see the difference. What is really sad is that the kit is truly "Plug and Play' but our cars are not. I have read the story about space under the hood and all of that but even the dealer told me that to change a head light bulb was an hour and a half! They actually remove the entire front bumper to change a bulb. If the front side of the airbox was removable and the fuse box was vertical instead of horizontal both lights could be swapped out in about ten minutes instead of two hours. Oh well!
I have heard from other Cadillac owners of varying models on the ridiculousness of changing a headlight. It has been made a non-diy for some by GM. This seems contrary to everything else they have been doing at Cadillac. This is my first Caddy, and I've always seen owner satisfaction ratings that were high. On another note, do you have any idea what the life expectancy of these HID builds are? I'm also wondering how one would address the replacement of these bulbs should these particular ones no longer be available. Let's say the company no longer produces them for consumers, or is no longer in business? What would happen then? Could the OEM halogens be easily reinstalled?
I cannot vouch for the lumen value of the bulbs you mention but the bottom line is that you will still have to do almost the same amount of work except drill two one inch holes and tighten two bolts. Unless the end results is very similar what's the point? If it were truly just replacing two bulbs with higher intensity ones without all of the GM mandated work I would agree with you but to go that far and then settle for less seems like a waste of time and effort. JMHO:-).
There are a couple of reviews of the Oracle H11 HOD bulbs on Amazon and they are not very good,so I have decided against them. Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/Oracle-Lightin...owViewpoints=1. Perhaps The Captain can post his results when he installs them and we can get his thoughts.
Thanks for the writeup and pics. Do you have a feel for how much brighter the HID's are vs the stock halogen bulbs? Claims are about 50%. Do you agree? I'm quite disappointed wit the stock lights on my SRX.
Like I said it is very subjective without another SRX side by side to really see the difference. In my garage when I had one done the brightness and whiteness was very obvious. At night the road is very well lit without the golden hue I had before. Also on the sides of the area in front are much clearer than before. We live in deer country and the side lobes of the headlights are very important. The other thing that is very noticeable is the upper cutoff of the light beam. It's almost like a line between the white and the dark. One thing to keep in mind is that these are LOW beams and are not supposed to be shinning way down the road but only to light up the short distance right in front of your car. It does that with a much brighter white light. Also to answer someone above, the bulbs are made by Phillips which is like the European General Electric. I think the Captain would be happier with HIDs instead of the alternatives he proposed because he is going to do almost the same amount of work.
No one should worry about the future availability of bulbs, since there are several companies besides Phillips that make H11 HID bulbs, including Osram/Sylvania. Also, the Phillips HID kit is universal, not SRX specific. The bulb type is changed depending upon the type used by the specific car, although the H11 is a common low beam bulb.