Findings Since Battery Drain Software Update -
No noticeable difference, but then again, as I stated before I wasn't having battery problems to start with. Just for the heck of it, I monitored the battery charge level via the DIC on the drive home from the dealer's yesterday. It ranged betwen 14.5- 14.8 volts. Car's been sitting in the garage ever since (approx. 30 hrs.). Just now checked it again. It's at 14.6 volts. All perfectly normal.
If you're not having battery issues, don't make a special trip to the dealer. But if you're going there for something else, get the software update just to avoid any potential future problems.
P.S. While I was getting the battery software update, they also did some kind of software update for the audio system. The Service Manager didn't know specifically what that one was for. Haven't noticed any changes with the radio. The radio station presets had to be reprogrammed, but that's standard anytime they do an update for the radio.
It sounds like GM has taken a big step backwards in quality launches with this vehicle. After decades of GM ownership, I feel I may have owned may last late model GM vehicle.
Interestingly, my battery voltage when the car is off is in the 12.2 - 12.5V range and when running, the voltage starts off at 14.2V, then dipping to ~13.5V (and staying in that vicinity most of the times). Couple days ago, I got another fright when the voltage reported after 25 min of mostly freeway driving was 12.5-12.6V (while on the road). I called my service advisor and he said not to worry if it is above 12.4V which contradicts what he showed me the previous day in a GM tech bulletin that put the min running voltage at 12.6. I will raise this with customer service when I talk to them on Monday - sounds like I may have another problem lurking out there.
OK, so I have been able to side step all of the issues that are posted on this forum......until today.
While serving on jury duty today, I parked in a 4 story parking structure reserved for jurors. Happy that I was excused from a panel, I thought I would be beating the traffic and getting home earlier than I thought.
As I approached my vehicle, I could tell something was not right. That is what happens when the battery is dead as door nail. Entered the car by using the real key encased in the fob. Called AAA for battery jump service and in cranked right up. The voltage read in the DIC started at 12.1 - 12.4. Once I got it on the freeway is was 14.3 - 14.7 the rest of the way home.
Just called the dealership. The Service Advisor ran my VIN and said that the only recall work on my car has already been done. They previously did an update for the NAV/Radio unit that He says had to do with the battery situation. In any case I will be taking it in tomorrow, assuming it starts in the morning. Will post results. Things were going so so well for the first 9 months and 3900 miles.
You know... i wonder if you leave the door open on the first latch, will it lock or will it wait till the door is fully closed to lock and stop looking for the key? I'm just shooting in the dark here, but it's something i have thought about...
Service Technician reprogrammed BOC module and while I was there I had them do the same for the memory seats. The seats seem to be much better and the car starts. What more could you ask for?
ps. Bought a quick start battery charger to carry around just in case....
Last edited by mw1862; 07-04-10 at 01:48 PM.
My 2010 Turbo Premium AWD Black Raven with 20K miles just died as well. Bought the care used 6 months ago. Had an Ipod attached to the USB in the center console, but I pressed "eject" on the pop-up screen before leaving. Perhaps the ipod nano played for 4 days? Car was not used for 4 days. Tried jumping with another car, no deal. Tried jumping with AAA Battery Truck, no luck either. It tests fine, but is completely dead. Will try a new battery tomorrow.