Cadillac SRX First Generation Forum - 2004 - 2009 Discussion, Oil Consumption, Time to give up? in Cadillac SRX Forums; Originally Posted by jonnygm
Thanks for the input guys. I might consider trying the Lucas though I haven't used additives ...
Thanks for the input guys. I might consider trying the Lucas though I haven't used additives in years. I was surprised not to see any Cadillac support people chime in on this. Maybe they're advised what to stay away from but to me this seems like a huge customer service (and loyalty) issue.
I apologize if we missed your original post. I am sorry to hear that you feel you are experiencing an oil issue with your SRX. If this is something that you would like Laura or myself to look into further, please feel free to private message us your name, contact info, VIN, mileage, and dealership you are currently working with. I will be sure to be on the lookout for your future messages.
The opposite. Pushed hard before the glaze sets in on the cylinder walls is a pretty certain way to ensure the rings will seat properly. The window is short for this to occur, and babying it makes it less likely the rings will have had enough pressure to seat to the cylinder walls. After 500 miles you are generally past that limited window for this to occur. Today's oils that the engine comes pre-filled with makes it hard for the rings to seat, or wear into the cylinder walls. Just the opposite of the owners manual instructions and why this is such a common issue. There are several areas of consumption, ring seating is just one. The other is the too restrictive PCV barb (that GM finally changed in late 2013 and up) that caused the crankcase pressure to exceeds the PCV's ability to keep the flow traveling in the correct direct, so when it seeks the path of least resistance and it back flows out the clean-side (fresh) tube and into the air intake. Then there is the oil mist that is part of the PCV gasses evacuated that is an issue due to these engines having overhead cams and turning higher RPM's, and finally the ring lands (grooves) in the pistons become gummed up with deposits left from the oil ingestion mentioned above and over time this causes the rings to stick, and not move freely so it compounds the cylinder/ring seal issue even further resulting in even more blow-by. A proper catchcan will take care of much of this, but the ring seating can only be corrected with a re-ring and new hone to cut the glaze. the problem there is due to the high percentage of techs not honing the cylinders properly in the past GM advises them to NOT hone (if over honed, the bore is cut to large and/or out of round, so they won't reimburse for this done correctly. This comes back to the 2nd generation of techs taught to read diagnostic codes and swap parts. Very few are experienced in proper engine building/rebuilding anymore.
The odds of the new rings seating are even less if the glaze is not cut and a fresh cross-hatch honed in to facilitate this.
None of this was an issue in the "old days" (I started as a GM tech in 1974) as all engines were prefilled with a break-in oil then, and you had to drive easy as the oil only had limited friction protection allowing rings to seat in a short time, and then it was critical to drain and fill in 1000 miles or less. The danger then was a new owner driving hard and causing failure. Now it is the opposite as the new vehicle buyer is conditioned to buy and drive and aside from filling with fuel, expecting to not open the hood for 10k miles. Yet the same "do not exceed 3500 rpm, etc." break-in procedure is still pushed by the factory. It would be nice to let us, the engineers have more say instead of marketing and legal and management in their ivory towers dictate decisions based upon target demographics and "cost of ownership". advertising. So this is the result...and it isn't getting better as now were seeing the intake valve coking, etc. that has plauged the V6 and 4L DI engines is already rearing it's ugly head now in the truck and corvette V8's as they are now DI. We are seeing the new corvettes (2014 LT1 engine) coming in with a few thousand miles on it and the intake air boxes are full of oil from the inefficient PCV systems:
wow...when I bought my Corvette in 2001 you had to baby it for the first 500 miles...seems to fly in the face of every new car I have bought but then I didn't buy my SRX new...so I have no idea how the original owner drove it in the beginning...
a hard habit to break...I've had many new cars since 1985 and always gone easy when new...I've not had any noticeable oil consumption issues on any one...but you say I've been doing it wrong and should go hard on it in the beginning...
No problem Bill. Back in the old pays (pre 1990's) that was the way to break them in, and had been for ages. It is only since they come prefilled now with full syn or syn blend that these issues have become so prevalent.....and as always, there are tons of examples of those that have good luck like you have, so it is only far less likely now that they will seat properly if babied in the beginning.
Do you always check oil level several times between changes?
This is interesting......I own a 2009 Infiniti G37 that has been going through oil, its also a common problem on the VQ engine. I've yet to run it low but the car now has a rather loud "tapping" noise going on from the top end. I'm wondering if newer engines just have a tendency to use more oil? My old 2002 Silverado burns not a single drop with 170k on the clock, yet a co-workers 2009 Silverado buns 2qt between changes as it's done since 10k miles.
I do check my oil...not every gas fill (there wouldn't be enough time for the oil to fully fill the crankcase) but I do check it...thanks for the information...I plan to check the PCV barb I have...would like to know if the 2013 PCV barb might be a direct replacement or I'll may give your improvement a try...
Oil catchcan and the PCV mod, and the RX cleanside separator will give a complete solution.
The 2014 PCV barb does not show as a separate item in our parts online (GM), it shows as cam cover assy only (aluminum vs plastic cam/valve cover of the pre 2014) so the 2013 part# comes with the small orifice. Drilling seems the only option right now.
You can by the 2013 and older replacement and drill it, but waste of $ IMHO.
On the older engines, the 2002 Silverado (4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0 are all non DI and non AFM/DOD engines so if you drove it normally aggressive when new odds are you seated the rings properly and have had a lifetime of no noticeable consumption (there is always a small amount via the PCV system). We have 230k miles on our 2004 with zero use between changes but I broke it in hard the first few hundred miles.
The Infinity (Nissan) and all other DI engines all have the same issues.....it is industry wide. Just some more severe than others.
www.RevXtreme.com or 941-721-1826 to order catchcan systems for any of these models. And ask more questions...good dialog here.
It's crazy but with this cold weather we have been having my SRX has STOPPED burning oil. I got the oil changed just before Christmas and probably have put 3k miles on it and it hasn't used any oil at all. It must have something to do with the oil being thicker in these temps at start up. It'll be interesting to see when/if it starts using it again when the temps warm up.