Cadillac SRX First Generation Forum - 2004 - 2009 Discussion, 2004 SRX-Transmission? in Cadillac SRX Forums; Hi. I have a 2004 Cadillac SRX.
#1. The car was acting like it was having a hard time going ...
Hi. I have a 2004 Cadillac SRX.
#1. The car was acting like it was having a hard time going and then it would not go. I think it might be a transmission problem. I have changed the transmission fluid and filter. After doing that, the car goes, but at around 30mph the car feels like it is losing pressure. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership. Please help me. This is my family's only transportation.
#2. Needs front wheel bearing.
#3. Battery dies over night if not driven everyday
Ok I have put more fluid in it. It took another quart and a half. It still slipping I did notice that the fluid is still pretty dark of course I believe it's because I only drained what was in the pan. We don't have much money to keep trying different things. Does any know if I drain it again and put fresh fluid in again will this help and would I have to change the filter again that would be another 50 dollars
The filter may not need to be replaced each time. Was the original filter clogged or coated with debris? It will take several partial fluid changes to get better looking residual fluid. From your OP, your tranny clutches/bands may be going. Hope not.
If your battery is draining, try moving the dash dimmer switch to a different position.
Does the key come out if the battery is fully charged? Do you have a lot of stuff on your key chain? Can damage lock cylinder.
Try putting trans. in sport mode and starting off in 2 or 3 gear.
Let us know.
If the key is in the ignition, even with engine off, that will drain the battery because all the modules are talking to each other all the time, sort of a gab fest or twitter convention. For the sport mode, start the car, put in sport and pull rearward 5 times. then forward 1 or 2 times. That will put you in 2nd or 3rd gear, then see if it will go.
The TCM can be tested but best done with a TechII tool. Before you do that, reseat the harness connectors at the TCM and ECM. Remove the engine cover for access to the ECM (on front of rt cyl head). Depress the small tab and rotate the lever toward the front and to the left of the car. Carefully remove the connector and then replace being careful not to bend any pins. Do both connectors. The TCM is next to the fuse block and its connector is different. The release lever is to the rear of the connector and needs to be pulled rearward to release. The connector will then pull to the left of the car.
Before you do that, disconnect neg batt cable and clean all ground connections. There are 3 on the cable, 1 to the rear of the engine, 1 to the body on top of the shock tower (be careful with that because the bolt goes thru the fender and gets rust stuck), the third goes to a connector that is ground for the instrument panel. Below the TCM you will see 2, 10mm bolts with wires to the fender. Loosen and tighten both (about 1/2 turn).
That's a lot to do but it might correct connection problems which may be at least part of your problems. If you're close enough I might come over and help.