Cadillac SRX First Generation Forum - 2004 - 2009 Discussion, What DIC displays after dead battery in Cadillac SRX Forums; Well sure enough the truck was not started after two days and the battery went flat, put the trickle charger ...
Well sure enough the truck was not started after two days and the battery went flat, put the trickle charger on and after a few hrs still would not start so I hooked up a 350 amp booster because I could not get the other car to jump start it in the garage, so that started the truck went and unhooked the supplies and when I got in the ABS and traction control light was on and the DIC was displaying every negative it could display from low wind shield fluid to checking power steering, if it had it, it named it. Turned off the truck and needless to say did not turn over, just a dead thud and head light display
So went back out to check the voltage on the battery because when I looked at the charger it says ready(green) from low charge. hooked on a volt meter and 12.6 volts, not great but should be enough to start, nope it was not, hooked up the 350 amp booster and it did not start so I released the key from start position and on its own it continued to crank until it started? Weird, so I watched the voltage on the DIC (oh by the way no weird DIC displays like before) and saw it go up to 13.9 volts. So let it run and switched it off, tried again and no go, dead, checked the voltage and 12.8 volts. So I will leave it overnight on recovery mode on the charger and see in the morning. Any thoughts on this
Next time you put a charger on the battery, disconnect the neg. cable first and during charging. Then do a drain test by hooking a DVM set to 'amps' in series with the battery and proceed to pull and replace 1 fuse at a time until you find the draining circuit. Couple hours and you've found your problem. Good luck.
In the meantime, after you get it running, drive it a couple miles and then erase all the codes you got from your recent escapade.
Hooked up according to procedures (and its not easy with SRX battery connections) MY readings were 0 according to my voltmeter I have 0 draw on my battery, 0 sounds good but is not a correct reading, there has to be some draw even milli amps. So that will not work on my SRX, so another way I read was to hook your voltmeter to each fuse, any fuses showing power is drawing the battery, I tested each fuse, As expected I would get a milli sec reading and down to 0.0 so no draw under the hood, I did not test anything other then your normal 2and > amp fuses
The car by the way did not start, nor would it with the 350 amp booster. After charging 12 hrs the light showed ready, but my volts read 11.79. After trying to start a couple times(no turn over) the battery went down to 10.8. I guess the battery is bad, but if it is... it will be the 3rd HIGH priced QUALITY battery bought thats makes 3 that will have been on this truck in over a year, Something is ruining these batteries
Guess its time to fast forward next summer and ASAP get this traded in an sell the wheels I am still waiting on.... on Ebay international or the local web shop.
So I thought about well after you try to start a car whether it does or not you are waking up the system, so I connected the voltmeter again and no draw, no something has to show? OK open doors, still no draw? maybe I am doing something wrong so I connect the lead to - and ground on car, it shows my battery voltage (as it should) low but it shows. I assume even with a low battery I should show some draw after waking up the car, unless this went into some safety shut down mode where the system prevents a complete drain of the battery
About the alternator I did witness a bench test and the alternator was working back when I replaced the radiator. Having said that and owning a SRX that does not mean its working now! I should be able to trade out the battery for a new one anyway since it has a 2 year warranty.
So went back out and after letting the charger on I removed the connections and checked the voltage 12.89 3x, now that should be enough to start or at least a turn over, all lights are on OK ,headlights, radio, checked for DTC and none to be found. Shut off the key and checked the battery again 12.85, so turned the key it does its normal light up of the dash, but not enough juice to even turn t over,just a 1x click, booster is low on power now so have to recharge that. But it should at least turn over with 12.8 volts?
No its set for amps, I checked for amps on other items and no blown fuse. Problem is my voltmeter is automatic so I set the dial to the desired setting and it tells me if its milli or 1 amp, I just call it a volt meter. I know I could get it started with another car but the problem is my cables are not long enough to drive another car in the garage to reach
Took out the battery and will bench charge the battery, since my last post I checked it and it shows charged 13,6 on the charger, removed the leads and checked with a voltmeter and it dropped quickly down to 12. 1 in a matter of minutes. I will take back the battery tomorrow and have to order a new one if they exchange it.
Had a couple of tequila shots and watched a game, this calmed me down, so asked the daughter to come by and jump me since her opel battery is on the left of the car the cables were long enough, embarrassing a 95 opel has to come jump start a luxury truck. Anyway it runs and charges showing 14,9 volts @ 1500 RPM, so alternator is OK. Here is another way to test draw if you do not have the multimeter handy
the doors closed (drivers side window down) wait 15 minutes, then disconnect the battery cable on the negative side. (15 minute wait allows the computers to go into "sleep mode" which shuts down all electrical systems). Attach a test light between the negative battery cable end, and the negative battery terminal. The test light should illuminate dimly or not at all. If the test light is "ON" brightly there is a strong electrical draw in the system. To locate this electrical draw start removing fuses one at a time. When the test light goes out the circuit in question has been located. You will need a car repair manual to identify all accessories in a particular circuit, repair as needed and re-check system.
So will take the truck to the garage who sold the battery and do a test to see if the battery is OK, if it is then I can get me another multimeter and test the draw theory. Coincidently I tried the draw test with a test lamp and it was a medium brightness, not off or white bright. Should have a better idea tomorrow
Truck was driven for 30 mins @ 60 mph, shut the truck off, will not restart, so its gotta be a bad battery
Agreed on that. BTW bench tests on alternators and starters are hardly ever accurate. On vehicle is he the best way.
If you cannot trust a shop that specialises in that and could of sold me a new/rebuilt one, but said mine was ok, what can you trust. Besides it is showing charging on the vehicle. When I get the new battery I will do the draw test again, just to help other members if they run into this. What to do with the new wheels coming? They will not be here before I head south. 3-4 weeks delivery an this POS should be baking in the hot sun on a lot in south Spain by then!