Cadillac SRX First Generation Forum - 2004 - 2009 Discussion, suspension air pump in Cadillac SRX Forums; rockauto has rears for 430 each, but when I think about it as long as I have no heavy hauls ...
rockauto has rears for 430 each, but when I think about it as long as I have no heavy hauls I do not need this system? I mean I have no DTC and no light, connected a large empty trailer to it today and drove, nothing different, no sag no light. If I can keep it this way I will till I can save up for a trade in.
There are no struts in the rear, just shocks, knuckles, control arms and links. In fact the SRX doesn't have struts in the front either, just steering knuckles that are often called struts by mistake, I guess.
When a suspension strut is used, it also functions as an upper control arm to locate the wheel in addition to the function of a shock. Doesn't make for the best handling suspension but its ok and saves the car company money. That's one place where GM spent a bit more money on the SRX then was absolutely necessary.
Now this is weird, went to the office and hooked a heavy trailer, still no code no DIC warning. Now I assume this added feature the original owner paid for is suppose to work correctly, if not a code should show or a light. So I assume its the load level switch thats out, not telling the module whats happening. Question is since its not effecting the ride and no warnings, I guess I can leave it as it is and save at least 1400 dollars or more in a new pump and shocks. Any thoughts?
Where is the fuse for the pump, the manual describes removing the filter cartridge but I see no separate part number for that?
Same difference... Generation Alternator Strut Shock, Doesnt change the fact the rear shock was fine, the air bag however used in the level function was ripped leaking air out of the system constantly running the compressor and it burned out.
I know there is a 4 sec start up on ignition? I thought there was a 222 sec max time so it would prevent the pump from burning up, after the 222 seconds it just would not come on till the next start?
So opinions? Leave it alone as long as I have no DTC and lights and it does not sag in the rear with a load, now I am not talking about hauling a streamliner. I just hooked up a trailer with some heavy engines in it and no sag(well when I say sag the body is not lowed down to the wheels).
Also has anyone removed the filter cartridge and cleaned it or replaced it?
I would say that given the costs of the shocks and the fact that your ride isn't suffering, don't bother. That said, I wouldn't load the rear suspension such that the back end drops and drive at night as your headlights might blind oncoming drivers.
Thanks, no problem with that,like I said I only haul grass clippings and trash to the dump, maybe some light furniture. So would one agree its probably the load level switch gone out, in regards to the pump I will look at the fuses just for a double check.
Actually I do not need the pump running considering the bags are shot, it did run before, just quit, the fuse is just for my curiosity, if its out I will leave it alone. Too much trouble to remove the hitch to bench test the pump if I am not going to replace the shocks, and yes I would not doubt the switch is corroded, I did look at them today and they did not look bad. But I think I should leave well enough alone so no light does come on or DTC when I trade in.
I had the same issues. I knew the shocks were shot because the ride was terrible and I didn't realize it was an active system until I got the VIN decoded. I considered going with changing over to standard shocks with bypasses (electrical, resistors to fool the monitoring system) but I was able to buy a set of shocks on Amazon (of all places) and for not much more than any of the conversion kits I could find. For me, it was a no brainer.
I bought a used air compressor that came with a 1 year warranty (which was as good as a new product) with the potential downside of having it fail and lead to bag damage and labor costs. However, the cost savings was more than half over new and still substantial over rebuilt. It was a risk I thought was reasonable and I'll just keep an eye on the system. So far, it is whisper quiet and keeps the car level with the result of having the headlights properly pointed.
If you are unsure about restoring the suspension, I can tell you the difference between not working and working is phenomenal. I can't say what it would be to go with a non-active replacement of course. Also, after I put in the replacement compressor, there was a significant improvement in the ride quality. I believe that the air suspension is baked into the system and needed for proper overall performance.
I will say, I never got any error messages, I even disconnected the front shocks and nothing. That leaves me confused. I guess I need to get to a GM dealer and let them pull the error codes from the system. Anyone have any info on the suspension diagnostic procedure? What is the most common failure that leads to a non-functioning system with no error messages. Or, since the system wasn't working properly (other than shot shocks = rough ride, I didn't know it when I bought the car - would have colored my decision), is it possible to disable the system from some central point (no bypass resistors that I can see) that would fool the system?
2005 Northstar V8 and active suspension w/ 100,000 miles
I am probably wrong but I do not think it has anything to do with ride comfort, the MRC does that, the bags and compressor is for load level control. I assume there are DTC if the MRC goes out. Maintenance schedules should be included in the mileage check of components for suspension