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Bad Gas Cap?

23K views 85 replies 14 participants last post by  Xocticz 
#1 ·
So the wife was driving our 'new' SRX and had this happen, it was like the power steering went out and came back, then the check engine and trac control light came on. it then stalled. check engine light would stay on. She could start it but then it would stall out again. So I went to go get her and I took the gas cap off and put it back on, not pushing, but until it clicked a bunch of times. I got it home, and then took it to work and it ran okay, still have the check engine light on, but would a bad gas cap make ALL those things happen?
 
#2 ·
I doubt a bad gas cap would cause those issues. If there is a Check Engine Light on you need to have the codes read to see what system(s) has set the codes. You can go to Auto Zone and they will do it for you. Once you have the codes post them here and maybe we can figure out what's wrong. Whatever you do, don't let the Auto Zone guy try and tell you what parts you need to fix it.
 
#4 ·
It can throw off the pressure sensors in the tank, cause problems and light the CEL.
 
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#6 ·
Get your codes read as rlh suggested then maybe you won't be so remorseful.
 
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#11 ·
so got the beast back yesterday afternoon, MAF sensor on board. seems to be running better than before the limp mode issue. Going to keep track and see if I get better mpg than what I was. However, getting the 'service stability system' message, but I"m thinking it's perhaps low brake fluid. only occurs when I'm hitting the brakes, and doesn't pop up when I first start it up.
 
#12 ·
I"m thinking it's perhaps low brake fluid.
That would bring on a 'check brake fluid' message. The DIC can be very precise. You've got something in the ABS not working properly. Might be a new code has set. Not likely serious but I would want to find out before the roads get slippery.
 
#13 ·
Ok, just to keep the thread up to date. After having the car back a few days it starts doing the same thing. Runs rough, engine and TC light come on, then starts stalling right in the middle of wherever. No limp mode however, so that's a plus. Pull it into the dealership and guy seems pretty concerned. Keep it over night and either puts in a new ECM or flashes the old one, I have to go over the paperwork on that, but it seems to be running better now, but I guess I"ll see after about a week. He told me the ECM wasn't covered under warranty but that he would 'warranty' it anyway. I had read that there were ECM issues in the early SRXs so I wonder if there really is a type of warranty but he just wanted to sound like 'the cool guy'. I could care less :) It was free so I'm good.
 
#14 ·
Just wanted to quote this because last night it did the same thing. Has been running great and then probably say about a week or 2 ago the wife drove it and it ran rough, engine light, etc. I took off and put on the gas cap and a couple starts later the engine light went off and it was fine. so I ordered a new AC Delco cap and replaced the old one a few days ago. Drove fine yesterday then got in to sub for bowling and it was in limp mode right off the bat. Went out this morning to see any different and now it won't stay running. This is going to get pretty old if this keeps doing this every month. I wouldn't think bad gas because it's over half of a full tank and bad gas would get it a lot quicker than that.
 
#15 ·
Well, you've got DTCs in there somewhere, you might want to find out what they are. Symptoms also sound like evap. canister system may be malfunctioning.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Oh sure yell at me when I don't post codes then don't say anything when I finally do. :) so it's been at the dealership taking up a parking space since friday morning. They can't figure out what is up with it. It started and drove fine yesterday so the tech took it home to see if it did it in the morning.

Now, and this sounds weird, but I did wash it a day or 2 before and it had a high pressure undercarriage. could that have done 'something' and over time as it dries out it gets better?

Edit as of 10:30 am: silly thing just started right up again and ran fine after sitting overnight.
 
#20 ·
Oh I've looked them up, or at least most of them..dunno what the "V" codes are..but I was hoping some of the caddy/GM gurus on here could pare down what I've got (a shotgun of codes) into something more managable.

As it stands, it's running fine, so I'm going to pick it up this evening. Maybe. Possibly.
 
#25 ·
Oh maybe it was a U code. It was written down for me, so I'd hope the guy either doesn't have poor eyesight or isn't dyslexic.

And they didn't charge me a dime for diagnostics or anything. I was quite surprised.

but I picked it up last night, took it out on the highway, drove it around city wise, etc. Nothing. Drove just fine. Got up this morning preparing to speak sailorese and started right up. Got a low pressure tire warning but it's cold out so it sounds like I need to get some more air in the tires. Not horrible yet I'll deal with that after work. Beats the crap out of me.

BTW thanks for that code list link, that's really awesome!! :thumbsup:
 
#26 ·
Sheep, I've been gone 5 days so couldn't answer your code list, so here goes,

The P codes all relate to air flow performance readings being out of spec incl. MAF, throttle body, TP sensor and lean fuel trim. To me that means you had (have) a vacuum leak between the MAF and the cylinders. None of them should really affect performance but might contribute to the starting problem.

The C codes have to do with the ABS, 561 means it is disabled. Somewhere I did some work with 242/4 and 461 but I forget what.

The U codes are a loss of communication between modules such as ECM and TCM. Can lead to really hard shifts, esp. downshifts but can be remedied just by erasing the codes if communication is restored, which seems to happen by itself sometimes. My opinion is that the electrical connectors at the modules are poor and can leak or need to be wiggled to restore good continuity. Your wash may have contributed.

Hope this helps
 
#28 ·
It's very often a split line or a loose clamp or bolts as in intake manifold, but be careful, being in aluminum they can't take a lot of torque. Just be reasonable. If the codes don't come back it may have self-healed. Bring it up if you want, I'm cheap and I'll help look!
 
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