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No Lumbar, can be a easy fix!

32K views 34 replies 9 participants last post by  RandyCowden 
G
#1 ·
If your lumbar stopped working but you can still hear it working, try this before the stealer.
remove the driver or passeger plastic cover on the side not working, simply give a tug at the top corners and door side (3 pins) and lift up the plastic back, its hinged on.
on the right side or left side depending on seat is the electric motor (its small). On it is attached a stud (plastic) with threads (this attaches to the plastic belt the loosens and tightens the lumbar belt.
Sometimes ( well in my case) the head on this threaded stud breaks, so the stud turns but no reaction.
remove the threaded stud from the motor ,it simply pulls out and remove the broken head from the belt
Get some super glue and a C clamp and glue the head back to the stud, I put some oil on the threads, somehow plastic to plastic means friction to me.
you will have to screw the stud back into the lumbar belt all the way, then attach the head of the stud to the nipple on the lumbar belt (this keeps the head in place)
put the shaft back into the electric motor tie strap the motor back and there you go
I think the system has a stopping point either way so you do not over screw, up to now mine has held up (its been a week) but I have not tried to go MAX in either direction except the one time trial to check if it holds. I just set it like I want and press memory
This has to be one of the easiest most accessible parts on the SRX to fix
 
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#2 · (Edited)
orandaberg........thank you for this "fix" write up on the non-functioning lumbar support. There have been several forum members with the same issue: the driver's, passenger's, or both power lumbar supports stop functioning. And from what I can recall, those that rectified the issue did so by dropping the car off at a dealer. So all they/we knew was that the required replacement parts were plastic, had broken, were replaced, and the power lumbar support worked again. Some had this repair, more than once.

If I understand you correctly, a threaded plastic bolt with a head fails with the head coming off the bolt. I had incorrectly assumed that due to the frequency of these failures and some repeats that the threads were stripping due to wear or the threads were stripping due to too much stress from the pressure exerted on the lumbar by the occupant.. Or that the threads were stripping because a misalignment within the mrchanism. Wrong on all counts.

I have a cranky back. The power lumbar is critical to my seat comfort. After reading about all of the failures I would only adjust my lumbar supports with NO WEIGHT on them (me).

In any event, the head of the "drive" bolt shears off, and your super glue approach (with c-clamps) worked.

To everyone, I'd keep the adjustments of the power lumbar for when there is no weight or pressure by the driver or the passenger is exerted on them. This failure has occured with folks who are not necessarily in the heavyweight division.:banghead:

PJ
 
G
#3 ·
Hi
I do not see the treaded plastic as a part, so I assume you have to buy the whole assembly, its about 100 dollars for the passenger side motor/assembly but have not seen one for the driver side

its number 53, here it shows the belt and motor together all as one unit, maybe thats how its sold?
 
#4 ·
orandaberg........the first generation Oldsmobile Aurora (1993-1999, the large one) was originally to have been released as a Cadillac. Oldsmobile was in deep doo-doo financially. So GM elected to rebadge the vehicle and released it as an Oldsmobile. It came standard with a downsized "mini-Northstar" @ 4.0L. I owned a 1998, nicest vehicle I have ever owned until the SRX.

In addition to the 8-way powered and heated seats, it came with dual power lumbar supports, upper and lower. It also had adjustable headrest restraints. So for those of us who have a more difficult time getting comfortable, the Aurora seats offered more than the SRX! And not once did either of the power lumbar supports fail on the Aurora.

As to your comment about the failed bolt in the SRX coming as part of a complete assembly, I would not doubt it. With so many of the things that (eventually) require replacing today on cars, you have to buy the whole assembly when just a part of it fails. With the SRX, the wheel bearings and the upper/lower control arms come immediately to my mind.

In an earlier post you expressed frustration with all of the fixes you have had to perform or have done.....even to the point of selling the SRX. While I would not blame you, especially due to your dilemma----being in Europe where qualified repair facilities and parts put you in a real bind, logistically and expense-wise----I would also suggest you let yourself get to the end of the tunnel (fixes and mods) to see if the fruits of your "war" reward you. You also mentioned that in retrospect you may not have thought through all of these implications. But a plan ill-conceived but violently executed will nonetheless succeed.

When you drive down the road in Norway and Europe, you are driving something very rare there.:yup:

PJ
 
G
#5 ·
Along with a hoist quote I asked for the lumbar assembly 6000 Kr, a little over a 1000 dollars LOL LOL LOL, of course it has to be ordered, now why do I not think they go on Internet and buy it for 106 dollars and sell it to me 1000 dollars, typical stealership
 
#9 ·
Well lets see, when the machine shop is slow I do all sorts of silly things.

I have a plastic shower organizer door that we spend 2 hours fixing one day, I also have a sink drain that took 4 hours to make out of stainless because home depot did not have one that fit right.

I pay a man to stand around or to make stuff for me either way :)
 
#10 ·
Well lets see, when the machine shop is slow I do all sorts of silly things.

I have a plastic shower organizer door that we spend 2 hours fixing one day, I also have a sink drain that took 4 hours to make out of stainless because home depot did not have one that fit right.

I pay a man to stand around or to make stuff for me either way :)
 
#11 ·
Is this a coincidence or what? Last night my wife tried to adjust the front passenger side lumbar. Zippo, not even the noise of the motor like the working driver's side makes. Time to check the fuse if I can locate which box and which one from the owners' manual. :banghead:

PJ
 
G
#12 ·
I have tried some junk yards none would sell just the lumbar, need the whole seat, passenger side cost under a huundred from Rippy but still did not get a answer from them about driver side, its not listed on any of the GM parts available
 
#15 ·
I did a forum search, and one poster explained that the fuses for the seat functions including the lumbar, heat, and adjustments are located in the rear left and right boxes and that if the fuse goes so do the rest of the seat functions. Since my other seat functions are all working, it may not be a fuse but the lumbar switch that has gone bad, the motor, or a bad connection.

PJ
 
G
#20 ·
What I am thinking is the motor continues to turn till it reaches the end and twists off the head, are there an GM mechanics on this forum that can explain the sync of this system. Is it suppose to have a torque limit so it does not break off the head?
 
G
#23 ·
I did not give up yet, I super glued the head again, this time I drilled a hole before the head to stop before it gets to the head, the pin should take the force,which may be what breaks the head when glued, worth a try since they do not sell the plastic screw
 
#26 ·
Re: Lumbar repair, quick and permanent fix using a metal pivot!

I have come up with a fast, easy, and permanent fix to the broken plastic lumbar positioning screw.

Parts: 1/4" x 1" bolt, nut and washer.
Time: after removal, abut 10 min.

1) Take out the lumbar assembly. (see above posts)
2) Cut the plastic tie and remove the motor, screw and broken screw end.
3) Cut off the white plastic nipple that acts as the pivot for the screw. I used a box cutter.
4) Drill out a 1/4" hole in the same spot as the nipple was.
5) Insert a 1" x 1/4" bolt to act as a new pivot for the screw. (the screw is hollow, so this is an easy fit)
6) Tighten up the nut and bolt, then place the washer on the bolt (past the nut) to act as a smoother screw stop.
7) Wrestle the screw / motor assembly back into the housing
8) Put on a new tie.
9) I drilled out two additional holes for a smaller tie near the top of the motor, as I didn't trust the clip, which was distorted after the screw broke.
 

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#27 ·
AN FYI:
I can get my hands on all sorts of lumbar motors, screws, plugs, etc. However; I'm not too sure how many of the parts they have now will work with the SRX.
But if anyone needs anything please take a clear picture of what you need and I will try to get it for you. You just pay shipping.
 
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