- 03-26-13 07:56 PM #31Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): 2007 SRX
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
Re: No Lumbar, can be a easy fix!
The 1/4" bolt does the same job as the broken off plastic head. it positions and prevents the screw from wandering out of the channel, which moves the motor out of its mount. The black plastic lumbar screw rotates on the 1/4 bolt, but there is enough slop to keep it from binding. The nut and washer on the bolt keeps the screw from traveling out of the motor. Good luck.
- 09-01-14 11:00 AM #32Cadillac Owners Member
- Automobile(s): 2008 SRX
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
Re: No Lumbar, can be a easy fix!
Thanks lefaudio for the images and your bolt fix method. i did a variation of this with our 2008 SRX. Had car in local auto shop and asked them to repair. Apparently they were not to familiar with the workings and just pushed motor back into its cradle. They even missed the fact that leadscrew that moves lumbar mechanism was broken! After getting car back from them a week later it stopped working again of course.
After searching on this forum I found this thread and decided I should fix it myself since my wife is very uncomfortable without this feature.
I removed seat back - see images - anchored by three automotive trim style push pins and two hooks at bottom of panel. Also two small nipples at sides where panel extends toward lower side of seat. Pull top part out carefully first then lift up to release from bottom hooks
Rather than wrestling entire lumbar mechanism from its anchor points on seat frame I decided to try fixing in place. If removing it is much easier to remove inboard side by reaching in and pushing away seat foam to release clip and twist the plastic part off the metal seat frame. The outboard side is much more difficult to get your hand into to do likewise. This where I gave up trying to remove the assembly.
You could still use lefaudio method and cut off the nipple that leadscrew idles on and drill the hole while in place however I have access to a metal lathe and decided to just make a small part to repair leadscrew where it is broken.
I removed the broken plastic leadscrew. Turned a smooth square face on the end where it was broken. I used a piece of bronze to machine a new end that fits inside the center hole of plastic leadscrew. The actual ID of the leadscrew is 0.315" about 5/16". The end of leadscrew rotated in the nipple part of lumbar meachanism - this is part lefaudio cut off to replace with a 1/4" bolt. My bronze part did not require any cutting of this nipple since it just replaces the broken head of plastic leadscrew but engages the leadscrew through center hole of leadscew. The bronze part does not need to be anchored to plastic leadscrew since it does not serve any purpose other than an idler support for leadscrew. I made the part that protrudes into the hole of the plastic leadscrew a slight interferance fit so that it idles spins on the nipple instead of spinning on ID of leadscrew. Not that it matters any, like bolt method. The driven end of leadscrew was not broken and should not be broken on most of these repairs. The leadscrew actuates threaded section - nut - of black part in lumbar assembly to compress the white accordion section.
It is about a 15 minute job on a metalworking lathe to make this part. So if you have ability to do this i recommend this as quickest method of repair. I neglected to anchor motor on bottom or shaft end as lefaudio mentions but it is recommended since I noticed when lumbar motor is fully disengaged motor noticeably pulls away from mounting cradle on bottom - shaft end.
There is no mechanism to prevent over-torquing at end of stroke and I see this a failure of design combined with the weakness of the leadscrew - a very small cross section of plastic material when considering the 5/16" hole for idler pin. This is the weakest link which breaks when lumbar button is held down even a short time after motor has reached end of stroke.
I recommend saving lumbar position as seat memory as mentioned by another poster here. I do not recommend saving lumbar in memory at a position all the way at either end of stroke. Also remember to only adjust your lumbar a small variation from saved position since actuating to end of stroke creates over-torque on a few components.
- Sponsored Links Remove Advertisements
+ Reply to Thread
Gear in this thread - Powered by O'Reilly Auto Parts
- PowerTorque Tools - SAE & Metric Socket Set
SAE & Metric Socket Set - 41 Piece; 1/4" & 3/8" Drive
- PowerTorque Tools - Stubby Star Bits Socket Set
Stubby Star Bits Socket Set - 10 Piece; 1/4" & 3/8" Drive; Star Stubby Bit Socket Set; Contains: 1/4" Drive: T-10, T-15, T-20, T-25, T-27 & T-30,3/8" Drive: T-40, T-45,T-47 & T-50
- PowerTorque Tools - SAE Hex Bits Set
SAE Hex Bits Set - 7 Piece; 3/8" Drive; SAE Hex Bits; Contains: 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 5/16" & 3/8"