Cadillac SRX First Generation Forum - 2004 - 2009 Discussion, 2004 SRX not starting in Cadillac SRX Forums; I think I've read more threads on this issue than anybody. There does not seem to be a common problem ...
I think I've read more threads on this issue than anybody. There does not seem to be a common problem or a common solution.
It behaves like a low battery. But I've put in a new battery and no difference. I have a monster red top Optima that is 1 year old.... 1,000 CCA.
Symptoms: 3.6L, all electronics seem to work fine but when you turn the key nothing happens (engine does not turn over)... and the key will be stuck in the ignition. 1 year ago I had battery a drain that caused the same symptoms... I replaced the passenger door module and all was fine for 1 year. I have checked and there is no drain but it behaves the same. It really seems to behave like a loose connection but I've checked and made my own grounds and it don't fix.
One thing I've been able to do is keep attaching the ground to the battery while the key is still stuck in the ignition... about 1 out of 10 times I will hear a whine noise from the front of the engine (I think it is from the throttle body motor for the butterfly valve). Whenever I get this whine noise, it will start up. If I don't hear this whine noise, it will not start up.
I did buy a new ignition switch to install but I'm not too confident it will help. Any things to check out would be appreciated.
Your 4th paragraph leads me to think you have some bad grounds. Included in this might be the attachment of the starter to the block. I would start with the other end of the B- cable and remove the attaching bolt, clean the area and reattach. Do the same for other ground straps between engine and frame or body. Lastly do the same for the starter itself. You might also check the resistance for the B- cable while you have it off.
Ok I've seen this in a couple gm cars as well as my 04 SRX. Under the hood inside the fuse box, there is a main ground and hot spot. They will at times loosen just a lil not enough to even get close to noticing it, but after time corrosion builds between the space and the contact is not good. When mine did that one morning, I went straight to that are and bam there was my problem.
chiefc90... which box are you talking about? The pcm or fuse box or other??? I was planning to disconnect PCM and reconnect for fun.
thanks guys... I have been kinda lazy and will check into these wiring issues this week. I agree... I think it's some kind of wiring problem. I tapped and replaced relays which did not help. Replaced the crank position sensor... didn't help. I was starting to suspect the battery cables having some kind of internal resistance issues???? I remember an older GMC thread that replaced the fuse box and fixed his issues. I hope it's something simple... it's been a great car otherwise.
it's not too difficult to install. here's what I did...
1) disconnect negative cable on battery (MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS)
2) pull the steering wheel tilt knob straight towards the driver door.... it will pop off
3) there is a small hole under the ignition switch (in lower cover, smallest hole)... insert small screwdriver/awl and while turning key to RUN the key cylinder will pop out (took me several tries to find the right spot)
4) there are two large holes on the lower cover (have torx, I think T-25). Remove those screws which hold the 2 upper/lower column cover together and pull down or remove the lower cover
5) Remove the large security module over the cylinder hole... just let it hang off to the side
6) remove the two screws holding the ignition switch and disconnect the wire connector (odd torx fasteners, needle nose vice grips or similar needed)
Installation is reverse... hook up the battery last.
The GM manual says to disconnect the airbag circuit but this seems like a waste of time to me (since battery is disconnected).... but I was careful not to be in front of the airbag just in case.
If this doesn't fix my problem I'll post again... but so far so good!!! GOOD LUCK!!!
Try playing with the shifter while trying to start the car. Move it hard forward and back but not into neutral, left and right. See if there is any in ignition sound or if you can get it to start. Could be a bad park neutral safety switch.
maddog, let's start over. The next time it does this, leave the key in 'run'. Open the underhood fuse box; near the front is a large connector and near the middle of it is a large purple wire. Jump that wire to battery +. If the car starts and runs we've eliminated the starter/solenoid as your problem and we can then start eliminating other causes.