How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement) - Page 2
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Cadillac SRX First Generation Forum - 2004 - 2009 Discussion, How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement) in Cadillac SRX Forums; I'm getting ready to do this over the weekend. I'm curious, did you have an impact wrench? If not, do ...
  1. #16
    jonobo is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    I'm getting ready to do this over the weekend. I'm curious, did you have an impact wrench? If not, do you think that would have helped? Can you think of any tools that would have helped getting those hub bolts off?

    Thanks...

  2. #17
    glake89's Avatar
    glake89 is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    The hub bolts come off just fine, it just takes a lot of leverage because they have Loctite on them and they resist all the way out. An impact wrench is fine for the axle bolt as long as the tire is still on the ground.
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  3. #18
    mckellyb is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    I know this is an old(er) thread, but this is EXACTLY what I needed to pick up today, where I left off yesterday, when I could not figure out how to get to the bottom bolt.

    The access for that one is just a cruel joke.

    FWIW, this works 100% for the RWD STS as well.

  4. #19
    mark94z is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    I did this last night to my 2006 2wd. Thanks for the previous posts.

    Couple of comments.
    Determining if the bearing is bad - My wheel bearings were tight but we had a noise in the rear that kept getting worse. Determined it was the right side because it got louder when you turned left and put more pressure on the right rear bearing.
    Axle nut - A 35mm socket would not fit the axle nut, had to use a 36.
    Access to the 3 bearing bolts - I popped out the upper control arm joint and could not see how I was going to get to the 3 bolts. I then just removed the other suspension joints and the shock mount and took the whole assembly loose but left the emergency break cable attached. With the axle out I could then easily remove the bolts. Using an impact it only took a couple of minutes to remove the suspension joints, old bearing and install the new bearing. It then took about 15 minutes to get all the joints back on. It helped having a friend to use the floor jack to raise the assembly up and down to get the bolts aligned.
    I was able to change both sides in about an hour. Having an impact made this much easier.

  5. #20
    srxgirlie is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    I had this problem at first as well. I was using a cheep socket set. The steel is thicker. Try buying better quality sockets. Stronger steel-less steel. Its not hugely noticeable to the eye but it definitely made that little difference.

  6. #21
    SRT ACE's Avatar
    SRT ACE is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Thread Starter

    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    Srxgirlie, you need to clear your PM inbox, it's full and I can't reply to your PM...

    As luck would have it, I made a how to for the lower control arms, which are only replaceable as complete sets (bushings & ball joints included): http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...placement.html

    I no longer own the SRX and rarely check these forums anymore. Good luck!

    -ace

  7. #22
    cynot's Avatar
    cynot is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    Just replaced both rear hubs on my '04 SRX AWD using your step by step instructions. Did it in four hours and am now enjoying "the buttery smoothness"!

    Thank you for posting this!

    CYNOT

  8. #23
    Dachristianman is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    I just did this job. I did not remove the caliper bolts, but let the caliper attached to the bracket and removed the caliper bracket bolts. Saved a step. Also, my hub bolt was a 35mm also. Both rear hubs took about 3.5 hours total. Not a terrible job, but those hub bolts are tough. You'll need a pretty good set of extensions to find which work best.

    Also, make sure to drive the CV joint out of the hub or at least loosen it before removing the hub bolts. I didn't do this on one side and had to put the hub bolts back in in order to stabilize the hub and then hammer on the CV joint with a block of wood. It was rusted together pretty tightly.

    Another thing. I used a puller on one side, but there really isn't anything to pull against. I put 2 of the lug nuts on backwards and used those as a gripping point for my 2-point puller. It worked, but I still had to put a small hammer to the back of the hub bolts in order to get the hub to separate from the knuckle.

    One final thought. When you're trying to get the upper control arm bushing to line up with the hole, realize that there are a couple different jacking points that you can try. If you jack on the outside edge, it will rotate the entire assembly in, and maybe a little too much. If you place the jack too far inboard, it will jack the assembly up, but the hole may not line up. This took me a couple tries to get it lined up.

    I bought some Detroit Axle hub bearings. 1-year warranty, made in China. $64 each. They seem smooth, and they cost less than 1/2 of the Timken brand. Since I don't plan on keeping this car much longer due to a growing family, I opted for the cheaper brand.

    Have fun.

    Tom

  9. #24
    RoverDover is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: How to: Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Install (also covers brake pad & rotor replacement

    Great write up - was quite reassuring knowing that I wasn't the only knuckle-head that would attempt this.

    Just finished replacing my right-rear and after 10-years of Buffalo winters, my primary battle was corrosion. The three bolts were not coming out, so I pulled the whole right-rear knuckle (disconnecting the three suspension links and the shock absorber. Once out, it was easy to get the three hub bolts and two parking brake bolts out with air tools. Then the fun started....the hub was so corroded that it had fused with the aluminium knuckle. I ended up over at a friends house and we uses a chisel and hand-sledge to beat the old hub out of the knuckle. After that, cleaning up the corrosion with a file and air-grinding wheel to prepare it for the new hub. Reconnecting the suspension links to the knuckle was a battle of twisting and turning while shoving bolts in place. After that, reassembly was pretty quick.

    Total time? About six hours.

    If I took this to the dealership, this would have easily been a $1,000 job. DIY cost: $100 for the hub from RockAuto and a half a can of PB Blaster.

  10. #25
    TravissV is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Question...what was happening or how did you know there was an issue? I seem to be getting a whole lot of road noise from my rear driver side these days...sounds like I have a wood wheel. Thought maybe it could be related to this same problem. I'd love to hear what you experienced.
    Traviss

    Quote Originally Posted by RoverDover
    Great write up - was quite reassuring knowing that I wasn't the only knuckle-head that would attempt this. Just finished replacing my right-rear and after 10-years of Buffalo winters, my primary battle was corrosion. The three bolts were not coming out, so I pulled the whole right-rear knuckle (disconnecting the three suspension links and the shock absorber. Once out, it was easy to get the three hub bolts and two parking brake bolts out with air tools. Then the fun started....the hub was so corroded that it had fused with the aluminium knuckle. I ended up over at a friends house and we uses a chisel and hand-sledge to beat the old hub out of the knuckle. After that, cleaning up the corrosion with a file and air-grinding wheel to prepare it for the new hub. Reconnecting the suspension links to the knuckle was a battle of twisting and turning while shoving bolts in place. After that, reassembly was pretty quick. Total time? About six hours. If I took this to the dealership, this would have easily been a $1,000 job. DIY cost: $100 for the hub from RockAuto and a half a can of PB Blaster.

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