I know everyone is on pins and needles..hahahaaa..THE SENSOR WAS BAD AND THE DEALERSHIP ASKED WHERE I LEARNED WHAT WAS WRONG!!! I told them about you guys and this site! He has an Escalade he purchased for son..must be nice 17 years old... and said he was glad I mentioned you guys and didnt think of searching for people to talk to. Ha! A dealer got taught a trick or two! And I saved $80 for the diagnostics check that was not needed. The garage guy said hey nice caddy..I had to say nice work. Thank you all so much. No more screen announcements telling me anything but the screen saver hubby put on so I see when I start my car. I am sure something else will happen..s no dont need new sparkplugs said the ones I have were new. Thank you all for reading and helping! Talk to you all sooner..than later!
I am quite surprised a sensor was not covered by the extended warranty - - - is it a GMPP ???? Usually GMPP covers everything electronic, and a sensor would definitely be electronic. I know GMPP will not cover paint, plastic, Glass, or mechanical things like hindges and door handles - - but really! They wouldn't cover a sensor.
I would call Cadillac Customer Service and request a refund via GMPP for the work that you had to pay for.
Of course :: if it was NOT a GMPP plan, then I don't know what to say.
No wasnt covered. Also have extended thru different company. No big deal though because needed to be done. Thanks guys! Now back to my roots at chinese restaurant with hubby and kids..I can rest now because not scared to drive! Have a safe one!
Changing plugs on a V-6 is not really a big deal. I bought a '06 with 99K miles. I hate to say this, but when you buy a used car, especially one that is 8+ years old, you have to expect that anything that is good today may not be good tomorrow (parts give out over miles or years).
Its been only 6 years where I live since 2006! I guess my 1997 Ford Van is a virtual hazard on the road as it has had NONE of the hundreds of problems that SRXs seem to have; just basic maintenance! Even the battery lasted 10 years....how does FORD do it????,,,,,lol
Hi one bad...UGH! well today started off well, and then the check coolant light came on..So I took to friends at Valvoline they refilled and said common for these cars to lose a little every once in awhile. No problem they refilled and was free of course they are just that nice as always! Well when they were doing air pressure on tires showed me that one tires valve was bent said not big deal but probobly why sensor was reading tire check. So advised that I get the part replaced for about six bucks. Drove the three blocks and my engine when I pulled into Advance was having a grey small..amount of smoke coming from it. Looked under hood, and...THE HOSE WAS LEAKING THE COOLANT!!! UGHHH REALLY! So after calling found part needed to be ordered. It was the hose that leads from the cooling reservoir to the engine and the radiator. Guess the price after dropping $265 yesterday for the steering sensor..IT WILL BE ANOTHER $175. I called the salvage yard closest to me, and no one has the hose. So ordered through the dealer and explained I WAS JUST THERE YESTERDAY AND THE PART WAS FINE WHEN I BROUGHT IN. But I said nicely because don't want to burn bridges. Anyway my mechanic will be putting on Monday morning for free. He's just that nice too. A soda and two packs of Malboro's and it's paid for he said. Told me not to worry. But as usual I did allll the way back home. So now car in driveway leaking coolant all over rocks. But at least it's home safe. I told you I would talk to you all sooner than later. Other than that all is well. I say this with a very disgusted look on my face! The crack in the rubber is on the "T" where the coolant goes to the three components, the engine, the coolant reservoir, and the radiator. Funny thing is my mechanic said it's good they sell the whole thing in case the other side did it down the road. P.S. this is not covered under my extended warranty either, so no to them I was not so nice!
Hi Professor Wizard as well
P.S.S. The dealership just called said they will knock $50 off the parts price. So now still $120. Seems fishy or worried I am tellling everything on here. HA! Won't mention name though I am a Karma person and may need them for another part order..OK I WILL NEED THEM FOR ANOTHER PART ORDER! Ugh!
Automobile(s): None at the moment. Maybe some day an SRX!
Re: sooooooo upset!
Thank you for the update! I have just finished catching up on this thread, and I'm so sorry you've had to deal with these frustrations. If you ever have future questions/concerns about your SRX or dealership, please feel free to contact me anytime and I'd be happy to investigate on your behalf.
welcome to the forum Vetters ... let me know in the future if you need any parts
if you're willing to wait for them to be shipped I can usually save you quite a bit
it's basically wholesale or employee pricing
it does sound like you've got a decent dealership there
don't worry about 'naming names'
that's what this forum is all about
reward excellence and expose faults - that's how we improve
i am curious though about how you feel about the styling of your SRX?
it has been controversial to some on here
they think it looks weird, not quite a wagon, not quite a cross-over, not quite a car ... even kind of looks like a hearse
i thought they were great, but i guess they just didn't sell as well as GM had wanted
(i do think that the new SRX is styled excellently also)
dctex99, i think the 8 year old used car was mentioning vetters' vehicle not that 1bad's own vehicle
Chris Heath (RippyPartsDept) is an ASE Certified GM Parts Consultant at
Rippy is a Cadillac, Hummer, Saturn & Saab dealership - family owned and operated in Wilmington, NC since 1946 We offer all forum members deals on parts and freight - e: firstname.lastname@example.org: 800-RIPPY-22
<-- insert standard boilerplate about posts not necessarily representing my employer, etc -->
Aw thank you Chris! Much appreciated! Will keep you in mind for sure! The $175 small hose put me in a reality check for sure! So used to pt cruiser we had or my mountaineer parts not having to be ordered. But such is life..love the car pay the price! Looove the car Chris! Sharp inside and out. Once she is fixed it will be fine. Just the waiting to get there sometimes a bit much! Cheers back! Vetters
AW YOU GUYS WOULD BE SOOO PROUD OF ME! I CHANGED OUT MY OWN RADIATOR HOSE!!! YOU GOOOO GIRL!!! I looked up everything online. Any questions here's the info.(see below) Hubby happy because I saved a ton of money..hey I did construction for ten years if I can break our kitchen down to the studs..drywall, replace cabinets, and cut my own granite on my valentine's wet saw..honey I can do anything!! But not for those who have no patience, because I had to shimmy the old hose from the engine..broke a nail but got it aloose. After attaching to the reservoir then the radiator, I shucked the old hose in the trash! Just follow steps not too bad at all! Make sure to burp the air out before replacing the cap to the coolant reservoir!! Very important!! But like I stated see below for instructions: PS cChris I will keep you VERY MUCH IN MIND! Thanks Profwizard
Things You'll Need
WD-40 Silicone Spray
Large Pan Or Wide Bucket
New Radiator Hose
Turn off the engine as soon as you suspect a leak, to prevent the engine from overheating.
Determine which radiator hose is leaking and exactly where the leak is coming from by looking for wetness.
Purchase 1 gallon of antifreeze and the correct replacement radiator hose from your local auto-parts store or dealer. (Radiator hoses are not interchangeable. They come in specific sizes and shapes for your particular car model.)
Wait for the engine to cool down for at least 20 minutes, before beginning any work on the cooling system.
Place a large pan or wide bucket on the ground under the hose to catch the coolant.
Use a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the hose you are replacing.
Remove the radiator hose by twisting and pulling where it connects to the radiator and engine. If the hose won't budge, use a utility knife to cut it off the fittings.
Remove the hose clamps from the old radiator hose and slide them onto the new hose.
Put the new radiator hose on. Spray the inside of the hose ends with WD-40 if the hose is hard to get on. Tighten the hose clamps.
Refill the radiator and the coolant reservoir with a 50-50 mixture of water and antifreeze.
"Burp the cooling system" by running the engine with the radiator cap off until the engine warms up. Keep the engine running until both the upper and lower radiator hoses feel warm (this indicates that the thermostat is open and the coolant is flowing through the entire system). Burping the cooling system allows any air bubbles to escape. Add coolant to the radiator as needed.
Look for leaks. Inspect around the hose clamps for dampness. Tighten the hose clamps if there is any wetness.
Put the radiator cap back on.
Check the coolant level after driving, to ensure there are no leaks.
Great job! One note on step 9. I would not use WD40 on rubber, since it can react with it and break it down. A better solution would be to keep the end of the hose under hot water for a while and it will slip right on.