How do you replace the rear struts on 2005 srx
How do you replace the rear struts on 2005 srx
ME - - -I would take it to the dealer - or a shop... give them some money and like magic, they give me my car back with new struts.
Outside of that... They aren't really Struts, they are Shocks, and you unbolt the old ones and remove them.. and stick in the new ones and bolt them down.
The exact procedures can depend on if you have the Magnetic Ride, Pneumatic Levelers or the Hydraulic Levelers.
I would upload a PDF on the process from my GM Database Software for you, but this forum limits the file size so I can not.
I uploaded it to a file sharing site :: don't know if this will work.. but here is the link:
What makes you think they are bad?
You are welcome.
The shocks are definitely bad. Every bump is felt and you hear them. I can't believe they want 400$ per shock for sports suspension!! Any suggestions for cheaper? Sorry it took so long to get back to you, My Grandpa died and I was in California for a month.
can you send me link again, it didn't work. Thanks
OK Peopleguy... Sorry to hear about your Granpa...
But I don't feel sorry for you being stuck in California for a month!
Here is the paper on replacing the rear shocks...
Yea.. you are going to have to scour the Internet for a deal on a shock... You might consider losing those Air Shocks and going with the Hydraulic/Mechanical like on my 09.
Anyway, I just replaced the left rear on mine and it wasn't a big deal. Taking all the interior trim off was worse than actually changing the shock. The only tricky bit is the screw under the "Air Bag" cap. The shock itself is literally held on with 3 bolts.
When I replace them with mechanical ones what happens to the air lines and air system? Won't the computer try to register the air shocks?
Can anyone help with the question above?
Sorry I don't know the answer to that one because I never converted from pneumatic or hydraulic load leveler rear shock system to conventional. Something like the MRC units? Nope. I had them on my first generation 1998 Olds Aurora which were still doing the job at 114K miles when I traded ot on the SRX. Pump was still working well too. Someone is bound to have been in this position and switched to conventional. The answer will come.
The prices of the correct replacement shocks these guys talked about was so shockingly high to me I thought the $400+ and $800+ per shock prices were a mistake. Then I found on the net somewhere another brand for the SRX, matching the lower but still exhorbitant price. Not good.
By the same token, I don't see why the rear shocks and pump should be connected to any electronics like you suggested. I would think the shocks could just be swapped out and the pump disconnected. But on the magnetic ride ones?
Unless the stability control is tied in somehow; but I thought that was kicked in by the attitude and direction that the vehicle is moving relative to the direction of the front wheels.
Time to wait and see who has been in your shoes.
The pump should be easy enough to stop. Either pull the fuse (rear seat fuse panel IIRC) or disconnect the electrical connector at the pump which sits just above the right muffler.
The bigger problem is MRC since the computer watches the shocks. Try disconnecting a wire from one of the front ones under the hood (since those are easy to get at) and see what starts complaining. If nothing complains maybe the swap to non-MRC would be simple, but I am sceptical.
That being said there are at least a couple of things to consider:
1. Are you really sure the shock is bad? Stabilizer links and/or bushings are more likely to fail and cause a rattling sound from the suspension and they are also much cheaper to replace. Also, remember that the ride of the SRX is stiff even with good shocks.
2. Is saving a few hundred bucks really worth it when you loose the MRC and auto levelling? Those are two really nice to have features. See the thread for another opinion from someone who has had both.
I am the cheapest person I know and I still chose to pay $500 for an original rear shock for mine! :)
Would this cause the banging noise when I hit any bump in the road and swaying when I hit a bump at higher speed?
Yes, PG.....the dealer replaced both the insulators on my front sway bar and that stopped the banging. Sounded like something was loose up front, drivers side suspension. A low banging or thumping rattle when going over bumps only. When going over imperfect road surfaces like slight potholes or poorly repaired ones. Problem solved. BTW.....mileage on the car was just 26.5K on an 07.
All four of my stabilizer bushings were shot when I bought it at about 80K which resulted in a dull rattle when driving it. On my STS I replaced the bushings and front links twice in about 50K. I have never found a noisy MRC shock but that doesn't mean they can't be noisy.
JS......you did better than me. My front sway bar "insulators" (shop's words) had to be replaced at about 27K miles, give or take; once done, the low thumping/banging or dull rattle as you put it stopped. And both lower control arms were replaced about the same time because the bushings on them were groaning up a storm with front suspension travel every time you stopped.