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126K views 480 replies 81 participants last post by  LisaCatera 
#1 · (Edited)
Anything wrong with your SRX out of the box ?????

I'm getting ready to take my 09' SRX to the shop to get those "little things" fixed.

These are the things I hope to have worked on!



NAV/RADIO WILL NOT TURN OFF:

When the Power Button is pressed, instead of the unit going off and “dark”, it goes quiet, and presents a very annoying bright blue screen. Should not be presenting blue screen. Screen should go off and dark when hitting power button off. Current work-a-round is to go Menu/Display/Display OFF then turn Volume Down. This gets annoying sometimes. I have no clue with the dealership will do with this one!


DRIVERS SIDE MIRROR:

Drivers side door mirror has reflection mirror flaws, which cause a ripple in the View. This is annoying and distracting, especially at night. I hope to get GM to replace glass! * NOTE: No – it is not the window tinting or glass, verified with window down.

Also: I'll have the dealer check heating system on Mirror – Drivers Side Mirror takes 3 Times as long to clear fog/mist/ice as passenger mirror, indicating a flaw in the heating system.


TRANSMISSION SHIFT PROGRAMMING:

Transmission down shifts from 5th to 4th way too easily and too often when in drive, especially on the highway with Cruise engaged. With slight acceleration or slight incline without acceleration the car will lurch and downshift. This is actually very dangerous when running with cruise control as it causes the car to lurch forward unexpectedly. Can’t run cruise on highway, if there is the slightest incline, unless you remember to put shifter into sport / manual mode – 5th.

Putting Shifter in M5 stops the annoying down shifting, but then you have to remember to put it back into drive for stops and town driving.

I am hoping the dealership will reprogram computerized transmission shifting parameters.


DRIVERS DOOR DROPS:

Drivers’ door “drops” when Opening. Please adjust so this won’t create problems in the future. The other doors seem to align fine.


WATER DRIPS:

AC drips cold water on Drivers Foot. My Wife expressed concern of damage to expensive shoes. I'm am concerned because drips turn into floods with cars!
 
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#257 · (Edited)
Another Update...

Wow... I have just broken my record of mean time between failures... 3 Months.

But, I knew it would not last forever:

Anyway... I just picked Humpty up from the Dealer for items #54 and #55.

#54 is the trim above the windshield once again cracked... they installed a new one. This is the 6th time for this issue.

#55 is BOTH Lower Control Arms... they started squeaking quite loudly - I guess it is easier to replace the whole arm, then to replace just the bushings.

While they had her... I had the oil changed...and new front brake pads installed.

We are at 58,800 miles.
 
#260 ·
PROF.......congratulations on your new record!!! I'll bet the dealership folks must have been worried about what happened to you. :histeric: Consider yourself lucky. My original lower control arms only lasted 27,000 miles. Mine were groaning up a storm when I took the SRX in. The second pair have lasted 50,000 miles so far and are still doing OK.

PJ
 
#261 ·
Thanks PJ;

That is my hope.. the second set outlasts me.

My Ford explorer had 230K miles on it with original suspension. Finally replaced the shocks at that point, mostly because they looked nasty, even though they actually still worked.

I've been lubing my sunroof, and keeping tabs on the oil, and changing the oil at about 15% life... so far no more problems in that area.

I am thinking the roof trim pieces are going to continue to be a future problem.. we shall see.

I had anticipated the front bushing to go, based on posts about said issue in here.

Based on past performance, it is about time to blow the drain tube for the AC Evap. :)
 
#262 ·
I just purchased a 2005 SRX, it is black with black leather interior. The car is spotless inside and out. It has 84,000 miles on it. OK so now that we have that out there. In the test drive the engine light came on, so they took it in and it was something to do with the emissions, gas tank had to come off to put the part on. Ok after a day or so get the vehicle, the light comes back on. Take it back it is still the emissions but another part. OK so I tell this dealer that this is not really working for me and I want to change into another vehicle...................My husband loved this one and long story short we have the vehicle now.

We have it for a week and the Check stablility system comes on, take it straight to the dealer and they diagnose something with the barrings making the car have a terrible rattle when it goes over bumps and something else (not remembering what) but they said they were ordering parts. Two weeks have past nothing on weather the parts are even in. NOW the service airbags light is on with the red air bag light on the dash. I am having a FIT!!!!! Some idiot at the dealer told me I am over reacting? I told him as far as I see it, this car is now playing Russian roulette with my life since I don't know which air bag or bags are malfunctioning!

I really love this car, the way it drives etc and I need something with the third row seat (have 3 children). I am at my wits end and my husband wants nothing to do with helping me with these issues! HELP! Is there and end to this, or as I am reading in here, am I heading down a very steep slope into MAJOR issues to come???? The carfax has one owner who had it serviced like it should with no incidents showing :/
 
#265 ·
JD................my situation with the front suspension issues (bad lower control arm bushings and front sway bar insulators) occured wihin a couple of weeks of taking delivery (CPO) at 26K miles. These and a couple of other items (Lake Cadillac, dead battery on delivery, and an UltraView that was a tad balky) were all covered under factory warranty.

Granted, this has not been the most trouble-free vehicle I have ever owned, but I had boned up on "known" SRX issues and went into this purchase with my eyes wide open (and a warranty extension as backup). Thanks to this forum, I had and have an ample supply of "bread crumbs" in the form of this forum's threads in the event the service technicians needed some "guidance." They didn't. So I kept my mouth shut and let them do their job. They squared things away to my complete satisfaction.

Then I went about 50,000 trouble-free miles (until 9/2012) in between dealership visits. Got those items squared away as well.

Right now EVERYTHING on the car works as it's supposed to. I have Ashley in Cadillac Customer Service here on the forum and my dealership to thank for that. Thanks to both for standing behind their product.

The pleasure of driving the GenI SRX has far outweighed the inconvenience of dealership visits. Yes, there are a couple of quirks with the SRX, but I have them on our Infinity as well.

PJ
 
#264 ·
:welcome: to the forum, Mommy

My advice, keep after the dealer to correct these problems. If they aren't fixed by the time your option to return the car expires, give it back. There are others available that don't suffer these problems. Check if your state has a lemon law, see if the dealer wants some local TV coverage of their service.

If you do keep it, we will assist you and your reluctant husband in any do it yourself work you choose to do. In any case, don't let it :bug: you
 
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#266 ·
Mommy... hang in there.. like Glake said... don't let it bug you.

If repairs are a warranty item of some sort, just keep taking it in until they finish the trail of sensor issues to the end.

Now.. if you are paying out of pocket for each, I would then seriously consider asking them to take the car back.

If your car were like mine.. the Car Fax would look Horrible, so you really don't have a problematic SRX. and Mine is an anomoly, so don't think for a second they are all like mine.

I post about mine so those who THINK they have a problem car, don't think they do anymore, after reading my tread! : ) Sort of like that adage, of: :"You don't know good, until you have had bad."

keep us updated.
 
#268 ·
hey there gang...

I almost made it 2 months... However we didn't quite make it a whole two months.

Battery crapped out last week... I prodded it along untll Friday, at which time she gave up the ghost completely...

I dropped her off at Elco.. and indeed... One dead 7 year battery - - Yes.. she is only 3 years old!

Anyway... Issue #56: Replace Failed Battery.

I will probably be taking her in again once it gets really cold.. as I noticed when it was just in the 30's that the rear-gate struts will not hold the door when opened manually. But I have to wait for cold weather to take it in and have them replaced, or the dealer will return with "Could not Duplicate".

Also, when it is cold, the right rear squeaks like a banshee on every bump for the first 5 minutes of driving the car - - that should be a sign of something about to let go.
 
#269 ·
Happy Days Are Here Again! :)
 
#272 ·
Whip, it may have set a DTC. Please check.
 
#274 ·
More likely a B code. Light doesn't always come on although it usually does.
 
#277 ·
Hi Whip...

Do you get heat out of the passenger side.

Are you testing with the "Duel" function turned OFF.. or ON... ?

Does the AC work?

Do you get heat coming from UNDER the seats toward the rear seat?

If one side, but not the other.. you have a baffle issue..

If all cold... could still be a baffle.. also possible heater core or thermostat issues.

Somewhere in my thread, I had wrote about heater problems - - but they were caused by the mechanics that tried to block what they thought to be a dripping hose, but ended up being a sensor tube.
 
#278 · (Edited)
No OBDII codes.

Heat is nice and hot from passengers side.

Have not tried AC yet, but even regular air would feel like AC because of the weather right now.

Under driver seat is strong cold air coming out. Under passenger seat it is warm air but not very strong, almost un-noticable.

Thanks for all the help so far everyone.
 
#279 ·
Yea Whip... I'm thinking baffle control. But it could be the drivers temp sensor.

Try testing in single mode - - if it still blows hot on pass, and cold on drive.. definitely baffle.. if all goes cold, when set to single, very possible the temp sensor for the drivers side is broken. (Same if all goes hot in single mode.)

Hopefully, all will go hot in single mode, buying you time to get it fixed at your leisure.
 
#281 · (Edited)
How do I make it so it only blows on the passenger side? I recall pressing "PWR"(I think) on the drivers side and it turned everything off. And PWR on passenger and it turned both on?
I'll try a few more things in the morning while I freeze.

Ya I tried again this morning. I don't know how to have it so only the passenger fan blows. Does there need to be an actual passenger there? Does it work with a sensor in the seat similar to airbag deployment?
 
#282 ·
I am not familiar with the dash of an 04..

On my 09, at the bottom of the console, there is a button labeled "pass".. if I press it, the heater switches to duel mode, showing individual temp settings for Driver and Passenger.. this is the default mode. You can press that button and the settings will turn off for the passenger, and the entire system uses the settings for the drivers side. The heat/AC system is split right down the middle... with temp sensors for both sides.

Reading the book for your car, it sounds like you have 2 PWR buttons.. one on each side...

The book says this about your 04...

*Dual Climate Control System

With this system you can control the heating, cooling and ventilation for your vehicle.

Automatic Operation

AUTO (Automatic): When this button is pressed and the temperature is set, the system will automatically control the inside temperature, the air delivery mode, the air conditioning compressor and the fan speed. AUTO will appear on the display.

Press the AUTO button.
Adjust the temperature to a comfortable setting between 70°F (21°C) and 80°F (27°C).

Choosing the coldest or warmest temperature setting will not cause the system to heat or cool any faster. If you set the system at the warmest temperature setting, the system will remain in manual mode at that temperature and it will not go into automatic mode.

In cold weather, the system will start at reduced fan speeds to avoid blowing cold air into your vehicle until warmer air is available. The system will start out blowing air at the floor but may change modes automatically as the vehicle warms up to maintain the chosen temperature setting. The length of time needed for warm up will depend on the outside temperature and the length of time that has elapsed since your vehicle was last driven.
Wait for the system to regulate. This may take from 10 to 30 minutes. Then adjust the temperature, if necessary.

You can switch from English to metric units through the Driver Information Center (DIC). If you have the base audio system, see DIC Main Menu . If you have the Navigation system, see "Setup Menu" in the Navigation System Manual.

The air-conditioning system removes moisture from the air, so you may sometimes notice a small amount of water dripping underneath your vehicle while idling or after turning off the engine. This is normal.

Do not cover the solar sensor located in the center of the instrument panel, near the windshield. For more information on the solar sensor, see "Sensors" later in this section.
Manual Operation

(Mode): Pressing the mode switch and changing the mode cancels automatic operation and places the system in manual mode. Press AUTO to return to automatic operation. The outboard air outlets will always receive airflow regardless of the mode selected. See Outlet Adjustment to change this airflow from the outboard outlets.

To change the current mode, select one of the following:
(Vent): This mode directs air to the instrument panel outlets.

(Bi-Level): This mode directs approximately half of the air to the instrument panel outlets, and then directs most of the remaining air to the floor outlets. Some air may be directed toward the windshield. In automatic operation, cooler air is directed to the upper outlets and warmer air to the floor outlets.

(Floor): This mode directs most of the air to the floor outlets with some air directed to the outboard outlets (for the side windows), and a little air directed to the windshield. The mode switch can also be used to select the defog mode. Information on defogging and defrosting can be found later in this section.

(Fan): Press this switch to increase or decrease the fan speed. Pressing this switch cancels automatic operation and places the system in manual mode. Press AUTO to return to automatic operation. If the airflow seems low when the fan speed is at the highest setting, the passenger compartment air filter may need to be replaced. For more information, see Passenger Compartment Air Filter and Scheduled Maintenance .

(Recirculation): This mode keeps outside air from coming in the vehicle. It can be used to prevent outside air and odors from entering your vehicle or to help heat or cool the air inside your vehicle more quickly. Press this button to turn the recirculation mode on or off. The air-conditioning compressor also comes on. Recirculation is not available in the defrost mode and will automatically turn off after 10 minutes when defog is selected. Using recirculation for long periods of time may cause the air inside your vehicle to become too dry or stuffy. To prevent this from happening, after the air in your vehicle has cooled, turn the recirculation mode off.

PWR (Power/Driver's Temperature): Press the PWR button located on the driver's side of the climate control panel to turn the entire climate control system on or off. Press the up or down arrow on the switch to increase or decrease the temperature inside your vehicle.

PWR (Power/Passenger's Temperature): Press the PWR button located on the passenger's side of the climate control panel to turn the passenger's climate control system on. Press the up or down arrow on the switch to increase or decrease the temperature for the front passenger.

A/C OFF (Air Conditioning): Press this button to manually turn off the air conditioning compressor. Press AUTO to return to automatic operation or press the A/C OFF button again.

Sensors

There is a solar sensor located on the instrument panel, near the windshield.

There is also an interior temperature sensor located to the right of the steering wheel on the instrument panel.

These sensors monitor the solar radiation and the air inside your vehicle, then use the information to maintain the selected temperature by initiating needed adjustments to the temperature, the fan speed and the air delivery system. The system may also supply cooler air to the side of the vehicle facing the sun. The recirculation mode will also be activated, as necessary. Do not cover the sensors or the automatic climate control system will not work properly.

Defogging and Defrosting

Fog on the inside of windows is a result of high humidity (moisture) condensing on the cool window glass. This can be minimized if the climate control system is used properly. There are two modes to clear fog from your windshield. Use the defog mode to clear the windows of fog or moisture and warm the passengers. Use the defrost mode to remove fog or frost from the windshield more quickly.
(Mode): Press this button until defog appears on the display.

(Defog): This mode directs the air between the windshield, floor outlets and side windows. When you select this mode, the system turns off recirculation and runs the air-conditioning compressor unless the outside temperature is at or below freezing. The recirculation mode is cancelled when you enter defog mode. If you select recirculation while in defog mode, it will be cancelled after 10 minutes. If you have fogging on the side windows, turn the thumbwheel on the outboard outlets to the side window defog position. See Outlet Adjustment for more information.

(Defrost): Pressing defrost directs most of the air to the windshield, with some air directed to the side windows. In this mode, the system will automatically turn off recirculation and run the air-conditioning compressor, unless the outside temperature is at or below freezing. Recirculation cannot be selected while in the defrost mode. This mode may also cause the fan speed and air temperature to increase. If you have fogging on the side windows, turn the thumbwheel on the outboard outlets to the side window defog position. See Outlet Adjustment for more information. Do not drive the vehicle until all the windows are clear.

Rear Window Defogger

The rear window defogger uses a warming grid to remove fog or frost from the rear window.

The rear window defogger will only work when the ignition is in ON.
(Rear Window Defogger): Press this button to turn the rear window defogger on or off. Be sure to clear as much snow from the rear window as possible.

The rear window defogger will turn off about 10 minutes after the button is pressed. Or, if the vehicle's speed is above 30 mph (48 km/h), the rear defogger will stay on continuously. If turned on again, the defogger will only run for about five minutes before turning off. The defogger can also be turned off by pressing the button again or by turning off the engine.

The heated outside rearview mirrors will heat to help clear fog or frost from the surface of the mirror when the rear window defogger button is on.

Notice: Do not use a razor blade or sharp object to clear the inside rear window. Do not adhere anything to the defogger grid lines in the rear glass. These actions may damage the rear defogger. Repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
 
#283 ·
Ah yeah I read that last night. I was still unable to power just the passenger HVAC. I can power driver only, driver and passenger, but not passenger only.
I read a few posts of people disconnecting their battery for a few minutes and then reconnecting and that solved the issue. however this seems to happen after a new battery install. I'm not sure if PO installed a new battery recently or not.
I'm really trying to avoid going to a dealer for this because I know it won't be cheap.
 
#284 ·
I tried disconnecting the battery and still same issue.

Few new questions:

On a 2004, are there supposed to be holes in the body where the cadillac badge is supposed to go in the rear? My car is missing the badge so I purchased a new one and it has tabs that look like they need to be fitted in the holes. The car did have previous hail damage and was repainted.

Which cylinder on the N* is cylinder #1? (had a misfire)

And I still have no heat coming from drivers side. What is this baffle Im supposed to look for? I tried searching and I have no idea what it is.
 
#285 ·
Baffle- there'e some little doors inside the heater assembly operated by motors that are accessible on the assembly. Get to it by removing the passenger knee bolster (lower dash). The motors are run by the BCM. As to the badge, remove the tabs and use 3M double sticky tape. As far as controlling heat side to side, there's only 1 temp sensor so passenger heat would be a +/- function of driver side.
 
#286 · (Edited)
#287 ·
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