Testing (or bypassing) ABS wheel sensor? (AND "Traction disabled" codes disable 1st?)

[Danwec]

I have a 1993 Eldorado Touring:
Anyone know a testing procedure for an ABS wheel sensor?
I have a "continuity fault" on my left rear on (TO37).... is that open or closed or either?
Anyone have any specs in terms of ohms or readings? Any way to bypass the fault in the computer override section?

Also- this sensor is throwing the ABS light as well as giving me a "Traction Disabled" message. I've heard rumours this eliminates 1st gear. Is this true??
I'm not driving the car yet (just purchased and fixing)...and am replacing the shift solenoids soon because I only have 2nd gear... I don't want to be misdiagnosing an ABS problem for a pooched tranny if I still don't have 1st gear on my maiden drive!
Thanks!
Dan

[Krashed989]

I would replace that hub/bearing.


There is no way to bypass it. Both ABS and TCS need the data from the wheel speed sensors, without it they can't function. And Yes, when Traction Control is disabled, the car will start out in 2nd gear to protect the tranny in case you have a lead foot.

You could take an ohmmeter to it and compare how many ohms it has to the other wheel speed sensors. I bet that one has a lot more ohms of resistance.

[Danwec]

nooooooooooo...............
I've already bought 500 bucks worth of parts.... half of what I paid for the car......
Well, temporarily, I really don't care about not having ABS or traction control. I've always driven sports cars that have neither... but is it disabling 1st gear? That would be a *little* drawback, lol.

[Krashed989]

Originally Posted by Danwec

... but is it disabling 1st gear?

Yep...

[Krashed989]

Hey, if it's any consolation, we can guide you through the R&R procedure. It's not that hard.

Just be sure that you have a set of female torx sockets. And possibly a FBH (Friggen Big Hammer) to knock it loose.

[Gearheaad43]

Ebay sells these hubs for a decent price.

[Ranger]

A continuity problem is an "open" circuit. You can test it by using a DVM and setting it to continuity. Put one probe on each of the pins. If you have continuity it will beep, just like touching the probes together. If it does not beep, there is no continuity and the sensor is shot. Since the sensor is integral to the hub & bearing assembly, the assembly must be changed.

[Danwec]

Thanks guys!
I'll check the wiring first.... but I guess I'll change out the hub. Damn. The total is mounting.
Oh well, $1000, (Canadian $$ of course) plus $600 in parts for a perfect condition ETC with 100k miles...not bad I guess...