Need some help ,guys,do you" Have" to pull the engine to get the water pump housing off? Broke 2 removal tools trying to get the pump out,dont have to worry about that now because I just killed the housing with a center punch.Anybody put one of these housings on?thanks for any input,steve.
Sorry I can't answer your question, but I want to back you up with some moral support. In October, I changed that water pump in the rain without special tools and it was no treat. I gouged the housing a little, but fortunately didn't ruin it. I feel for ya, man.
Need some help ,guys,do you" Have" to pull the engine to get the water pump housing off? Broke 2 removal tools trying to get the pump out,dont have to worry about that now because I just killed the housing with a center punch.Anybody put one of these housings on?thanks for any input,steve.
No, you shouldn't have to pull the engine to get the water crossover casting off the engine. I'm trying to visualize it all but the bolts are not blocked for access by the trans I don't think and the water crossover will come straight up and out once the bolts are out of the block and head. It is no piece of cake but is doable.
how did you kill the crossover?? Never seen that done. Usually the pump comes out rather easily with the correct water pump tool. It clock in left handedly so you were turning it correctly, correct?? As viewed from the water pump cover end (looking over the left front fender) it turns clockwise to remove it and counterclockwise to install it. With a good tool, a breaker bar and a 3 foot cheater pipe it will snap out in seconds.
Thx ,guys for the support and help. Bobbynski,I killed the crossover housing trying to catch the edge of the pump with a center punch to get it started moving ,then ,put the tool on it and unscrew it the rest of the way off. I had too much angle on the center punch and drove it right out the back of the housing in one shot.Really figured this deal was a no brainer and would be easy with the removal tool.Bought a cheap one on line and got what I paid for...... Had a buddy that works at a caddy dealer and he came over with a good one,couldnt get it out either and he's taken a lot of them out before.This pump is not corroded bad,it;s just THAT tight....beats me. I can see all of the bolts for the crossover housing but I may have to come up with a real snappy tool to get to the ones closest to the firewall. I used to be a heavy line mechanic for a chevy dealer years ago,but this one is whipping this ole guy.They definately put the engine in the cradle and built a car around it.....man oh man.
Bob,forgot to answer your other questions,we were turning it clockwise with a cheater bar,but the tool keeps jumping off the pump edge.even with us prying in on it at the same time,anyway ,got that problem solved now....lol..I'll probably get it fixed by the time I reach the other side if the car removing parts. Oh speaking of that,don't these engines have an external oil pump on them? This engine rattles the main bearings on a cold start up.I think there is a check valve not doing it's job of holding oil in the journals over night.Sure would like to fix it before it grenades this thing.Car has 130,000 on the clock and it can;t take much of that kind of punishment.Any ideas? Thx,steve.
I think every Northstar in the world does that when its cold, mine are always a little noisy but when it dropped into the single digits they both got a little noisy, even my 98 would be loud in the summer on a cold start, I brought it back once, and I think they changed the oil pump, (it was under warrantee) but that was a long time ago, my 02, is noisy too, but it only has 24k on it, so I pretty much think its normal, I just hope that I never have to do a water pump on my 98!! Sounds like a pain in the butt.
Bob,forgot to answer your other questions,we were turning it clockwise with a cheater bar,but the tool keeps jumping off the pump edge.even with us prying in on it at the same time,anyway ,got that problem solved now....lol..I'll probably get it fixed by the time I reach the other side if the car removing parts. Oh speaking of that,don't these engines have an external oil pump on them? This engine rattles the main bearings on a cold start up.I think there is a check valve not doing it's job of holding oil in the journals over night.Sure would like to fix it before it grenades this thing.Car has 130,000 on the clock and it can;t take much of that kind of punishment.Any ideas? Thx,steve.
The oil pump is internal to the engine...it is on the crank snout just behind the front cover. It turns at crank speed and is a very large capacity pump.
I haven't run across main bearing noise cold before. The Northstar engine is pretty bulletproof in the lower end so I would not worry about it at all.
I would suspect that if you are hearing anything it is some piston slap cold. Harmless...just annoying. Will run hundreds of thousands of miles like that.
One the 93 engines you could sometimes hear a tapping like a lifter that came in about 30 to 60 seconds after startup, lasts about 15 to 30 seconds and then goes away. It is a tick,tick,tick like a lifter but a little more metallic maybe. To hear it you have to start the engine cold and let it idle for several minutes. Start it and open the hood and you'll usually hear it just as you are getting the hood open after the cold start. It is the wrist pins rattling. There is just a brief interval on a cold start when the full floating pins start to pound the oil film down thin enough to make the noise before the oil thrown from the crank replenishes them. It is the nature of the beast with full floating pins. The clearance was reduced early in the 94 model year on the wrist pin to piston fit to eliminate the startup clatter. The wrist pin clatter is harmless and is actually what you get with the correct wrist pin clearance for good performance. To eliminate the noise the full floating pins have to be fitted so tight that they barely "float"....
There is no drain back valve in the filter and one is not desireable as it delays priming of the pump.
Bob,thx for the input,the noise is more than ticking lifters for sure....really sounds heavier than a piston slap,but you may be right about that being the noise.Hope so,I know that wont hurt it for a long time in the future. Time will tell. thanks again for the info.
*********,I just now got back around to working on this waterpump crossover again,did you have to pull the intake manifold to change the crossover you did with the engine still in the car? I cannot seem to get it to clear the fuel lines. Got them disconnected at the junction and tried to swing them out of the way as far as possible,still wont clear them enough to clear raise the housing out of there.so close ,yet so far away....thx for any input on this part you might have,steve.
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