I should become a mechanic! NEED HELP!

[QueensLacMan]

No offense to the mechanics out there, but seriously, these guys have the life. I've been to three clueless guys who have charged me an arm, leg and goatee despite their inability to correct the problems I was experiencing with my car.

I will mail a check to the person who helps me! Or maybe brownies (but I'll make them from scratch).

I have a 1995 SLS with 111,000 miles on it. There are two problems I am having with it that the mechanics I have visited have no clue how to fix.

1) I'm losing coolant. With three months of fully filling up on coolant, I ran out and overheated on the side of the road. It's leaking from somewhere. My mechanic did a pressure test and said there were no leaks present in the coolant recovery tank/radiator(?). He said it could be that I'm using a faulty cap (anybody hear of this?) that's screwing up with the pressure and causing the coolant to bubble up and out of the little escape hose attached to the tank. Or, it could be a blown head gasket. I don't really have any other signs of a blown head gasket (unless, rough idle is a symptom) and he said that's probably not the problem (I hope).

Any advice? He said I should replace the cap and see what happens. After that, if that doesn't work, to check the radiator.

What do you guys think?

Secondly, I have this rough idle that refuses to go away. I had the fuel injectors cleaned with some machine for almost $200. I had the thermostat changed, got a new air filter, had the throttle body cleaned out some, etc. I've been putting STP fuel injector/carburetor treatments into the tank. Nothing seems to work. I'll be sitting at a red light with my foot on the brake and the car revving itself to 2000 rpm.

Lastly, sometimes I'm driving over 50 and trying to accelerate and the transmission doesn't kick into a higher gear. I had the transaxle shift solenoids replaced (got ripped off - charged me $490 with tax) not too long ago but I'm still have some of these problems. Sometimes it's fine, and sometimes it just didn't kick in properly. I front end will dip a bit, I'll hear and feel a little bang (like a little gunshot) under the car and the car won't kick in. Another try two minutes later and the cars kicks in smoothly. Transaxle shift solenoids the problem again?

Any help you guys can provide is really greatly appreciated. I don't know much about cars and just recently bought my first ever (this SLS). I've looked all throughout the forums but have been unable to really pinpoint my problems.

Thanks again. If you solve the problem, I will send you brownies or buy you sports tickets, or something...

Regards,

AV

[Caddyshack100]

Wow, three annoying problems, first off, a rad cap is very cheap, so putting one on should not be a major expense. I wonder though why the mechanic did not do a pressure test on your old one? That would have put that thought to rest. Next, the high rpm at idle, did anyone pull the codes and check for a faulty idle control motor?, if not then a quick check can also fix this. On this forum, you can do this yourself. I cannot suggest anything for the transmission, sorry. I know others will step up and help you, good luck
KJ

[fritzm]

One thing to check while you have the radiator cap off is to check the plastic that the cap seals to. I had a coolent leak problem on my fathers Riv, I saw the leak stop residue around the neck and thought the radiator was shot. I then saw that there was a small nick in the plastic where the cap would seal to. I used plastic epoxy to fill the nick in and there have has been no more coolent loss. It is just one thing to look for along with a new cap, they do get old and the seals dry out.

[F100 Mech]

Hey Queens LacMan,

I have you tried researching the NorthStar Performance forum. There is lot of posts/topics on coolant loss.

[highonchai]

Did anyone look at your water pump? Do you notice a puddle of coolant and if so, where? or is this another one of those wierd phantom coolant loss stories that we hear of so often? As for the power loss or shifting problem i would look into new plugs and wires, its a basic, relatively inexpensive fix, but can solve more problems than you might immediately think of. Hope this offers some food for thought... And im sorry to hear about the goatee, lost mine recently as well... the chin is so cold... Good luck AV!

[Ranger]

Yes a bad cap can cause overheating and, yes, a rough idle can be a symptom of a bad head gasket (coolant is not flamable). If the mechanic pressure tested the cooling system and it held pressure, then the cap is probably good. He should have, and you need to, do a cylinder pressure test to confirm or rule out head gaskets. If you are loosing coolant, it is going somewhere. If it is not leaking externaly, then it is leaking internaly.

[highonchai]

And then there was the ever-present wisdom of Ranger

[curtc]

i had that same issue with my tranny...i know exactly what you're talking about when describing that "gun-shot" like noise...my car wouldn't accelerate at times but would others, it was really wierd...I changed my plugs and wires and the problem was gone, give that a try and see what happens...good luck

[1993 eldorado green1]

we need codes first. it is possible that the pcm has crapped out and that is causing the problems. second, as stated above, a coolant cap is only a few bucks i would just replace it anyways.

can you see coolant leaking? how often does it loose coolant? if the idiling is surging that horribly then that might be the reason for the transmission not shifting properly..

its hard for us to tell over the net without actually hearing it in person. codes are a must in this situation and then we can probably help you get her right again..

[M.A.C]

If the radiator is leaking to the exterior I would think you would smell antifreeze even if it's just a cap problem. If you can’t smell anything, it could be a sign that it's a head gasket problem.

Have you checked the oil on the dipstick for signs of a blown head gasket?
What about under the oil cap for white or gray residue?
Does the antifreeze in the expansion tank smell unusual like exhaust?

I replaced my radiator last year and couldn't pinpoint exactly were it was leaking until I replaced it and then it turned out to be the tubes next to the right plastic tank. However, I smelled and could see antifreeze long before it was time to replace.

[QueensLacMan]

You guys are absolutely great... I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the help. I will try out some of your suggestions and get back to you. Thanks again. - MWWHGB (Man who wants his goatee back!)

[Brews]

Rough idle can be caused by way too much "fluid" in the crankcase...experienced this recently: friend would check his oil moments after shutdown, often found it needed two liters to fill it up. He also was complaining of an oil leak...
I changed the oil and drove the car for a month, and the oil level never dropped a fingernail, when checked cold on a level surface. The crankshaft journals were actually passing through about 12L of oil when the recommended level is 8L. The oil leak he was complaining of was passing through the front crank seal...since I told him to check the oil level cold, he has not had to add any, and the oil leak has mysteriously gone away!
If you actually do have a cylinder head gasket leak that is internal, there could be all sorts of water/oil in the crankcase causing the rough idle. If left too long, the bottom end bearings(ALL) will fail...there is a reason that someone once said: OIL & WATER DON"T MIX!
If you suspect an internal coolant leak, you will find it in the crankcase. DO THIS WITH A COLD ENGINE. Slowly remove the engine oil drain plug until it starts to drip: if you see green/yellow right away(water is heavier than oil) you are probably in trouble. If all you see/feel is engine oil, then your coolant leak is external, maybe a really slow "steaming" leak at a gasket or pipe clamp. Not much trace to find this; I've found a really powerful lamp or flashlight to be good for finding such leaks. Engine has to be hot of course! Be careful! DO NOT OPEN THE COOLING SYSTEM RIGHT AWAY AFTER LOCATING THE LEAK! We are here for enjoyment, not hospitalization!

[Ranger]

The Northstar will rarely mix coolant in the oil when a head gasket goes due to its design.

[QueensLacMan]

Guys - Thank you very very much. Turns out that all I needed was "the right" radiator cap. No more coolant loss or overheating. Wonderful.

The idling happens on occasion and isn't consistent. It's actually gotten better. The gunshot under the hood still happens and concerns me. I will change all the plugs and wires and see what happens.

I do get a code (can't remember number at the moment...I think 24...something to do with a circuit or signal) so maybe that's related.

You guys are great. If you're in NYC, shoot me a line... dinner on me.

Lets Go Mets!

[92EldoTC]

probably still has the original spark plugs in there. The platinums are good to 100,xxx miles. At 110,xxx miles, your probably about due. Check the wires and see what condition they are in.