Cadillac Seville / Cadillac Eldorado Forum Discussion, security-no start in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; My 96 Eldo has refused to start right away due to it not recognizing the chip in my ignition key. ...
My 96 Eldo has refused to start right away due to it not recognizing the chip in my ignition key. It makes me wait three minutes, then starts right up. It does not do it all the time... maybe three out of the last dozen times I tried to start it. The manual said to check the key for crude or lint, which I have done. I even tried using my spare key after cleaning it. The problem is hit or miss with both keys. Could it be an ignition switch problem, or a computer gremlin that needs to be reset? Is there a way to possibly clean whatever is in the switch that reads the chip? Any help is appreciated.
The contacts in the ignition switch "read" the resister pellet in the key....that little silver sliver in the black plastic surround in the shank of the key. Make sure the resister pellet is clean on each end. The cleaner spray or a LITTLE WD40 in the ignition switch may help also.
One thing that can happen is that the contacts in the ignition switch can be bent or damaged if the key is not inserted straight into the ignition switch. The switch has a fairly long "lead in" made in it if you look at the entrance to the key slot. This may have been worn over time and allowed the key to enter slightly cocked. Make sure you insert the key straight and gently in the future so as to not damage the contacts.
If the contacts are becoming worn and/or the lead in for the key is worn the key may be starting to twist slightly in the ignition switch as you crank and unseating the resister pellet so that the VATS does not see the correct resistance and defaults the system. Develop the habit of inserting the key and then cranking using the "ears" on the ignition switch so that the key is not side loaded or twisted during crank.
One final thing about VATS on an older car. The ignition switch and the VATS contacts do not like a heavy wad of keys hanging on it all the time....this side loading of the key by a heavy ring of keys can also unseat the resister pellet from the contacts during crank and or wear the contacts over time increasing the problem. Switch to a ignition key that is alone on a key ring or one that you can disconnect from the normal wad of keys when in the car....it'll help preserve your aging ignition switch a little longer.
You can bypass the VATS if you want to.....Use an OHM Meter to measure the resistance across the little resistor in your key. Go buy a resistor at the electronics store that matches the resistance as closely as possible ( It needs to be very close ) if not exactly. Find the two small wires coming out of the steering colunm should be a white with black trace and a purple with a white trace unplug them and solder the resistor between these wires on the car side and it will fool your VATS into thinking that all is well and your car will start! I've done quite a few of these here lately and This has always worked! I usually put a little shrink tubing over the whole thing to make it look clean and not short to anything. Let us know how it comes out!
Thanks for the quick reply. I have already cleaned the pellet on the keys using some electrical contact cleaner from Radio Shack I had laying around. I will clean the ignition cylinder next. I have also removed all other keys from the car key ring and will try using the ears on the cylinder to crank as you suggested.
If all else fails, your description on bypassing the system sounds easy enough to do. Again, thanks for the info !!
I have a 98 Aurora with the exact same problem, and I will likley do the same thing. What I am wondering is how sensitive the reader is. My keys are registering a 9.5K Ohms. Would a 10KOhm resisitor be fine, or should I splice like 2 4.7Ks together?
ok... got the lower panel out and all wiring exposed. There are no visible wires that are white w/ black trace and purple w/ white trace. Does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows the proper colors? My Chilton's manual does not go into that much detail. I looked on Bulldog security's website to see how they hook up their bypass module. It says the wires are usually encased in an orange tube, which I have. The problem is there are four wires, not two. Which wires do I use? This sounds like something out of a bad action flick...never cut the blue (or was it red) wire on a bomb timer.
I'm hoping my information might be a little helpful, because I have had these problems in the past on my Seville, and the dealer always charges up to $500. Last year I called a locksmith because I was stranded and needed help ASAP. Well I got to watch the whole procedure, and the locksmith took off the steering wheel and re-connected the white wire that came apart just inside the lock cylinder for around $90. I was told that the tilt (and telescopic-in my case) causes the wires to weaken and eventually break completely. In the future I will be able to do this easily myself, because when the locksmith finished he did'nt quite put the steering wheel on straight, so when I got the car home I took it back apart, and put it back together correctly (keep in mind this is an 89 with no air bag). But, I would call the locksmith and watch the procedure, before attempting to do it. And now I never touch the tilt or telescoping functions on this car...