I just got done changing my front struts. I knew that they were bad, because whenver I hit a railroad crossing, the front end would bob a couple times... but it wouldn't on normal driving. I thought that was strange, combined with the fact that whenever I hit a big expansion joint or patch the steering column would shake.
Then it hit me -- the struts were so far gone that the front end was sitting on the bump stops, that's why I only saw the bobbing when I went over a railroad track -- that is what it took to put the suspension in motion!
After I realised that, I started looking for shocks... I ended up just getting the standard Monroes from Advance Auto Parts. I knew that I'd have to disable the electronic suspension, and I still need to do that (can someone point me to the instructions on removing the actuator to keep the error from coming up on the display?)...
But the high points -- before I started, the distance from the center for each front wheel to the bottom of the fender was 15.5". When I got done, the distance is 16"... 1/2" raise just from struts = the first set of struts being entirely dead (you could run the shaft in and out with no resistance.) So, in driving it is actually a little bit more harsh, but just because the suspension is working again. Mroe importantly, the shudder through the steering column is gone, which was a concern because that meant that the entire front end was absorbing the shocks that the struts should have been.
The difficulties -- removing the sway bar end links. I had both wheels up in the air, so the sway bar wasn't loaded. This made it an absolute nightmare to remove the end links... when you go to take the end links off, make sure the opposite side wheel is on the ground, this will load the sway bar and keep the bolt from turning, allowing you to get the nut off.
Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. The Monroes have all the mounting points for all items mounted to the struts, so there are no loose ends.
As I said before, the ride is a little bit more harsh, but it's also Much morecompliant over irregularities in the road. Nice upgrade for $160 total.
Then it hit me -- the struts were so far gone that the front end was sitting on the bump stops, that's why I only saw the bobbing when I went over a railroad track -- that is what it took to put the suspension in motion!
After I realised that, I started looking for shocks... I ended up just getting the standard Monroes from Advance Auto Parts. I knew that I'd have to disable the electronic suspension, and I still need to do that (can someone point me to the instructions on removing the actuator to keep the error from coming up on the display?)...
But the high points -- before I started, the distance from the center for each front wheel to the bottom of the fender was 15.5". When I got done, the distance is 16"... 1/2" raise just from struts = the first set of struts being entirely dead (you could run the shaft in and out with no resistance.) So, in driving it is actually a little bit more harsh, but just because the suspension is working again. Mroe importantly, the shudder through the steering column is gone, which was a concern because that meant that the entire front end was absorbing the shocks that the struts should have been.
The difficulties -- removing the sway bar end links. I had both wheels up in the air, so the sway bar wasn't loaded. This made it an absolute nightmare to remove the end links... when you go to take the end links off, make sure the opposite side wheel is on the ground, this will load the sway bar and keep the bolt from turning, allowing you to get the nut off.
Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. The Monroes have all the mounting points for all items mounted to the struts, so there are no loose ends.
As I said before, the ride is a little bit more harsh, but it's also Much morecompliant over irregularities in the road. Nice upgrade for $160 total.