Thermagasket

[Ranger]

Originally Posted by rfishing

Update:

Note: I do not see any of the shiny speckles from Thermagasket in the exhaust tail pipes. Thinking, that if I had a head gasket blown, the stuff would be there as well?

I would think any "shiny speckles" (if there were any) would get trapped in the muffler or cat.

[DaveDeVille]

Thanks to all for this thread. I am watching it very closely. Anybody with steam experience, please relate your story.

[dons96vette]

Any update from SJWOODRUFF on the thermagasket fix? It's been several months now.

[rfishing]

I checked coolant level yesterday it only needed a small amount to top off, probably just equalizing from all the flushing I did. This morning the level is where it should be, so I feel system is finished equalizing.

Today, I have a lot of local errands to run with the wife, and we plan to get oil changed, and take for test drive down and up the mountain.

Yesterday local driving so far it runs great with temps 194-198. One time temp hit 199, but soon as I started rolling again, it went down to 198. Like I said before, if this were a flat state, and I knew I was not going up steep mountains, Id have no problem keeping the engine the way it is. Engine is running very smooth, when at idle I can put my hand on engine and not feel any movement.

I have a strong feeling after reinspecting the old belt this morning, it could have been slipping. the belt is very stiff. Also that thermostat was stuck in place because the rubber backing behind the moveable plate / valve, and the rubber gasket got stuck to the inside of the housing, there was some thermagasket stuff somewhere inside the thermostat as well. I did not see where, but when I took it out of stove water while still hot, the black and shiny metalic stuff leaked out. The rubber backing has some bubbles in it, but it is still functional.

My suggestion would be, to remove thermostat when flushing thermagasket out. I left in as advised, best to remove thermostat for sure.

Funny thing, I checked coolant yesterday and a field mouse was under the radiator.

I will update this evening if possible. Sure would be nice to know if the others are still doing good.

[raymondk]

I noticed that referrences have been made that there no block drains in a N*. T'aint so. On the back side just above the motor mount, and in the front just right of the motor mount. I discovered them when I had my engine out to replace the core plug in the rear driver side of the cylinder head. I removed each to make sure.

[rfishing]

2 thumbs down

Sorry to say, car ran great all the way down mountain temp never exceeded 199 degrees. At bottom of mountain, I stopped engine at 194 degrees temp and checked overflow hose had a wet spot on it. Removed the pressure cap to check coolant level, and listened to alot of air escaping. Coolant level was right at the cap, and looked dirty water color with little green to it. Thought that level to be way too high, it was just above the baffle plate when I checked it cold this morning.

After restarting, and excelerating up hill the temp went up to 208, but came right back down to 199. When I hit the steepest part of the mountain the temps creeped up to 220s, 230s, 240s, 250s. I managed to make it over the pass and pulled off. Sure enough overflow hose was flowing with coolant, no other leaks that I could find.

After cooling off and adding coolant and water, I took off to finish my errands. Temps seem normal again on flat roads 199.

No steam out tail pipe during this event.

Looks like I need to have a Leak Down Test performed. Pretty sure it will be a head gasket though.

[DaveDeVille]

That's a real bummer. Sorry to hear the news. That was pretty darn hot. I know how it feels watching that temp gauge. I freak if it gets into the 220's. It did that at the car wash. But it probably heated up when I shut it off to get a wash ticket then restart and into the wash. When it hit 224, I shut it off til wash was done. After pulling out it was okay again.

[mtflight]

Originally Posted by rfishing

2 thumbs down

When I hit the steepest part of the mountain the temps creeped up to 220s, 230s, 240s, 250s. I managed to make it over the pass and pulled off. Sure enough overflow hose was flowing with coolant, no other leaks that I could find.


Looks like I need to have a Leak Down Test performed. Pretty sure it will be a head gasket though.

What kind of warning messages does the car give you when the temperature climbs, and when do they take place?

The highest I ever saw on my car was 232 I think (I was in 2nd gear mode, trying to clean out carbon for a long time, and I got carried away), and got no messages.

If it is the headgasket (sounds like it), keep in mind that since you've already had the block timeserted, you may be able to put in a new headgasket and retorque the headbolts with the engine in the car; however, if one of those pulls out, you know you're in trouble. If you find missing TimeSerts, then you can sue the dealer that charged you for 20 of them.

[boricuacaddy]

My car runs between 208 and 225 being the highest. A lot of city traffic driving no highways. I am not to concern since the car been running great. As long as it doesn't get into the 230's then I am OK..

David

[denscor]

What is the normal operating temperature of the northstar? The LS1's normal operating temperature is 220-230. When I bought my Vette on the way home from the dealer it went up to 225 I freaked out stopped called dealer he told me that was normal because an aluminum block is made to heat up that way.I spoke to several dealers about this all had the same answer. Did a number of search also.

[Ranger]

Doesn't Thermagasket advertize a 100% money back guarantee? I will be interested to see if they stand behind it. I do not mean to rub salt in a wound but as I have said before, repairs (hope) in a bottle don't work. Sometimes you just have to prove it to yourself. There is only one way to fix a bad headgasket. I hope you have better luck getting a refund. Keep us posted.

[mtflight]

Originally Posted by denscor

What is the normal operating temperature of the northstar? The LS1's normal operating temperature is 220-230. When I bought my Vette on the way home from the dealer it went up to 225 I freaked out stopped called dealer he told me that was normal because an aluminum block is made to heat up that way.I spoke to several dealers about this all had the same answer. Did a number of search also.

192-225 I would say. At 225 the AC condenser fan turns on, to aide in cooling. (When the A/C is on, that fan is usually on too, unless it's cold outside).

I personally don't feel comfortable above 212.

[Ranger]

I agree with mtflight. My '97 Deville ran a consistant 206 (summer), 213-216 (winter).

[rfishing]

About the warranty:

Warranty from what I can see, you need to have a professional diagnose your car and declare it is blown head gasket, and the cause of the blown head gasket has to be repaired before using Thermagasket. At least that is my interpretation.

But what the heck, I will contact them about the warranty anyway. I assume they will want proof it is blown?

As for symptoms of blown head gasket, this is exactly the same thing was going on when the head gaskets blew the first time. I will be contacting a mechanic soon to do the Leak Down Test, but feel is probably going to be a waste of money as the writing is on the wall.

[mtflight]

Originally Posted by rfishing

About the warranty:

Warranty from what I can see, you need to have a professional diagnose your car and declare it is blown head gasket, and the cause of the blown head gasket has to be repaired before using Thermagasket. At least that is my interpretation.

But what the heck, I will contact them about the warranty anyway. I assume they will want proof it is blown?

As for symptoms of blown head gasket, this is exactly the same thing was going on when the head gaskets blew the first time. I will be contacting a mechanic soon to do the Leak Down Test, but feel is probably going to be a waste of money as the writing is on the wall.

Well if the cause of the overheat is not addressed, then replacing the headgasket would not do any good. If the cause is the headgasket, that's different.

I would not disclose having used Thermagasket. Most companies would probably use it as a scapegoat, voiding the warranty.

I was not referring to a warranty per say, but if the headbolts are not timeserted properly, they likely pull out.

Now, if the car overheated drastically after being Timeserted, thereby ruining the TimeSerts, there's a "last chance to save the block kit" made by TimeSert.

I would assume, from anectdotal recounts, that overheating a N* is a good way to fry a headgasket and the ruin headbolt treads. This could well be the age old argument of whether the chicken came before the egg.